IDM replacement
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IDM replacement
I'm currently deployed and was informed by my little brother I'm going to need to replace the IDM in my California 97 F350. Its still running, just has a code for one of the banks malfunctioning. The harnesses were just replaced, the one bank did have a short in it. I have no idea what module it would currently have in it. I'm curious where I would find one, other than Ford, and if the Remanufactured models I see advertised are reliable. Also would upgrading to a 140V mod IDM short the life of my injectors or anything. I like getting more power, but not when it could screw up those expensive injectors. Thanks in advance.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,137
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From: Marble Falls, Texas
If you had a short, I'll bet my paycheck that the main engine harness has burned wires about 6-8 inches up that particular leg. I've seen it too often. Most people will replace the valve cover gasket, and the Under Valve Cover harness'. But then never look up the main harness.
And this will cause an IDM code, and tell you a bank is short to ground. I have found that the IDM's are pretty robust, and in the event of a short, more often than not, they go into a limp mode and shut down a bank. My guess is you still have a short in the main harness, and it can easily be found by ohming it out.
Upgrading the IDM to 140v, will have no effect on the longevity of the injectors. I have a modded IDM that's got over 100k on it with no issues. If it's modded correctly, that's a safe mod.
Anyway, look up the harness first, if you still need an IDM after that, I have a friend with a 120v IDM that works just fine. He wants $400 for it. Hope that helps man.
But above all..........Be safe over there brother, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your service.
And this will cause an IDM code, and tell you a bank is short to ground. I have found that the IDM's are pretty robust, and in the event of a short, more often than not, they go into a limp mode and shut down a bank. My guess is you still have a short in the main harness, and it can easily be found by ohming it out.
Upgrading the IDM to 140v, will have no effect on the longevity of the injectors. I have a modded IDM that's got over 100k on it with no issues. If it's modded correctly, that's a safe mod.
Anyway, look up the harness first, if you still need an IDM after that, I have a friend with a 120v IDM that works just fine. He wants $400 for it. Hope that helps man.
But above all..........Be safe over there brother, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your service.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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Hey I had to replace my IDM not to long ago I used Auto Computer Exchange out of Davie, fl their number is 18886648787 it cost me 134 dollars plus shipping for a reman IDM stock with NO core charge... If you choose to return your core they give you a limited lifetime warranty on defects... I have had the IDM in for a few months with zero problems and have had 3 buddies buy from these guys... They know their stuff and have very good prices...
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My ship just got back in to Norfolk and I was out looking for the burnt wires, if I were to unplug the harness going into the valve cover what should the read to ground and to each other? Does anyone have a schematic for it? Thanks in advance for the help
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
This online manual should get you going in the right direction.
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual
Click on "I" for injectors ...
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual
Click on "I" for injectors ...
Postmaster
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From: Medford Oregon
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i got a 120V computer from Auto exchange and my Check engine light is still there. I started tearing apart my wiring harness looking for shorts. It looks like someone was in there before, my IDM wires are wrapped in aluminum foil wrap tape and have a bare wire wrapped them too. I still have a check engine light and what sounds like a miss when i'm revving it up.
I plugged my code reader in and see a code P1391 and P1395. Which is probably from never putting a shunt back on my GPR.....
I plugged my code reader in and see a code P1391 and P1395. Which is probably from never putting a shunt back on my GPR.....
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From: Gambrills
I think those are glowplug codes.
What are your symptoms on the no start?
Also, did it just die one day while driving OR is it a no start w/o warning?
Does it smoke when you crank it?
Have you replaced the CPS yet? You should also make sure your IPR connector is on good and the bail still in tact.
What are your symptoms on the no start?
Also, did it just die one day while driving OR is it a no start w/o warning?
Does it smoke when you crank it?
Have you replaced the CPS yet? You should also make sure your IPR connector is on good and the bail still in tact.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
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From: Newport, WA
i got a 120V computer from Auto exchange and my Check engine light is still there. I started tearing apart my wiring harness looking for shorts. It looks like someone was in there before, my IDM wires are wrapped in aluminum foil wrap tape and have a bare wire wrapped them too. I still have a check engine light and what sounds like a miss when i'm revving it up.
I plugged my code reader in and see a code P1391 and P1395. Which is probably from never putting a shunt back on my GPR.....
I plugged my code reader in and see a code P1391 and P1395. Which is probably from never putting a shunt back on my GPR.....
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