Well I checked the can and it said it was good to 1200 deg couldn't read too much what was in it because there was paint on the outside all I could get was it had aluminum in it.

 

some guy's use this to help with flow as well do to its smoothness as well as holding heat...the inside of a exhaust manifold and the spider is full of bumps and burs wich can allow the air to dance around rather then flow a strait path...in return it adds to back PSI..they spend hours getting it as smooth as they can then coat them with ceramic.....do we want to hold heat in the spider?? corse not..we want the air as cold as we can there for we would coat the out side of it...but the smooth flow and rock hard finish is why its used inside the spider...every ounce of good flow is an ounce less of back PSI

 

The above equation is the one I gave in my initial post and it combines into a single equation the step-by-step approach I gave above involving the interplay between EGT, EBP, TPR, and TSHP which is also equal to CSHP. To illustrate that this equation gives the same answer as does the step-by-step approach consider the stock case where TSHP=CSHP=48 hp, EGT=1,003*F, AFR=25.3, MAF=39.8 lbm/min, TTE=0.70, AAP=14.54 psia, and PTPD=2.2 psig. Plugging these numbers into the equation gives...

EBP={(AAP+PTPD)[{1-[(CSHP)/{(EGT+459.67)(1/158.7)(1+1/AFR)(MAF)(TTE)}]}^-3.8911] -(AAP)} psig

EBP={(14.54+2.2)[{1-[(48)/{(1,003+459.67)(1/158.7)(1+1/25.3)(39.8)(0.70)}]}^-3.8911] -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(16.74)[{1-[(48)/{(1,462.67)(1/158.7)(1.040)(39.8)(0.70)}]}^-3.8911] -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(16.74)[{1-[(48)/(266.9)]}^-3.8911] -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(16.74)[{1-(0.180)}^-3.8911] -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(16.74)[{0.820}^-3.8911] -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(16.74)(2.16) -(14.54)} psig

EBP={(36.16) -(14.54)}=21.6 psig ...which is the same answer as before.

Now I'll discuss a "triple whammy" performance benefit due to adding the above mentioned insulation. The first "whammy" is that the EBP needed for the turbine to produce a given TSHP is reduced and the second "whammy" is that by reducing the turbo inlet air temperature the CSHP that's required to generate a given BP is reduced and this means less TSHP is needed which further lowers the required EBP for a given EGT.

If you look at these equations...

CSHP={(AFIAT+459.67)(CPR^0.283-1)(MAF)}/{(TCE)(175.2)} hp

CPR=(AAP+BP+ICPD)/(AAP-AFPD)

...you'll see that if everything else remains the same the CSHP required to generate a given BP is directly proportional to the term (AFIAT+459.67) where AFIAT=Air Filter Inlet Air Temperature *F.

For an "open element" air filter the AFIAT is equal to the engine compartment air temperature and for an "enclosed element" air filter the intake plumbing is heated up by the engine compartment air temperature so both types of air filters benefit from lower engine compartment air temperature.

The third "whammy" is that higher turbo inlet air temperature means lower air density into the engine and this means a higher BP is needed to produce the same mass airflow and this increases the required CSHP thereby increasing the required EBP for a given EGT.

 

So in actuality, could one say that; doing the foil delete increases the engine compartment temperature, particularly as it parallels the air intake plumbing?

 

no but you could say by removing it your letting the exhaust manifold and oil cooler heat the air inside the pipe..it was put there to hold the heat out and quite the whistle the early 99's had.....but you can fix that by painting it with ceramic to help keep the heat from soaking into the pipe..

 

I see your point about acting like a heat sink for the manifold and oil cooler, but I don't know why it wouldn't affect the air intake.

 

So, who does ceramic coating of the IC tubes? I looked on Clays site but couldn't find anything. Somewhere in the back of my memory I think I saw some for sale, I think they were ceramic coated, but don't remember for sure. Or what kind of ceramic paint or coating would work best?

 

We can definately do them, but I am not sure on the cost. Before you spent the money I would suggest getting some probes and see if it is worth the money. Also, remember that there are many types of ceramic coatings so if the findings show that it would benefit to coat the tubes we would also have to find the best type.

 

a friend at a body shop gave me some 2100* ceramic and i painted my own then baked them on like the directions told me to..everything in Ford blue including the plenums and pedistal is 2100* ceramic...


i did the up pipes in red 3 years ago..they still look good and holding up well....

 

I love that BLUE Engine! Looks Great!

 

Please do NOT quote me out of context but that BB looks hot!

I want bellowed up pipes!

 

See posts #43 and #46 on this thread... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...f-cover-3.html ...for an analysis of why the correct color to paint or coat various engine components is basically a "black or white" issue!

If you want to "minimize" the temperature of the substance inside a component then the strategy is to paint the outside of that component "flat black" if the component is surrounded by an environment that's "cooler" than the substance inside and to paint the outside of that component "white/sliver" if the component is surrounded by an environment that's "hotter" than the substance inside.

If you want to "maximize" the temperature of the substance inside a component then the strategy is to paint the outside of that component "white/sliver" if the component is surrounded by an environment that's "cooler" than the substance inside and to paint the outside of that component "flat black" if the component is surrounded by an environment that's "hotter" than the substance inside.

The above means the "flat black" turbo inlet boot and air filter box should be "white/sliver" so that the airflow going through them doesn't absorb as much heat from the surrounding hotter air in the engine compartment.

Choosing the correct color for the CAC tube that connects the compressor outlet to the IC inlet is more complicated. When the BP is low the temperature of the air inside this CAC tube is lower than the temperature of the surrounding air in the engine compartment so a "white/sliver" color is needed to reduce the absorption of engine compartment heat into the intake airflow ...and to cover this situation Ford added the insulating sliver foil wrap to this CAC tube on the 99.5 truck to help meet the new NOx emissions specification for the 20 mile city driving test loop which involved low speed stop and go driving.

The foil wrap also reduces the heat pickup into this CAC tube where it runs in close proximity to the exhaust manifold especially when the truck is stopped or operated at low speed. Ford also made other changes to help meet the new NOx emissions specification by increasing the low BP intake airflow with larger plenums, a larger intake spider, a larger turbo, a full bladed compressor wheel, and a less restrictive IC.

Of course the performance minded operate at high BP where the temperature of the air inside the CAC tube that connects the compressor outlet to the IC inlet is higher than the temperature of the surrounding air in the engine compartment so a "flat black" color is needed to increase the heat radiated by this hotter intake airflow. However a heat shield like the one shown in the picture in post #24 here... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ulation-2.html ...is still needed to reduce the heat pickup into this CAC tube from the nearby exhaust manifold.

Returning to the original topic the insulating coating on the exhaust manifold, up-pipes, and turbine exhaust housing should be "white/sliver" in color!

 

So, Ernest, do you have any recommendations for a heat shield blanket for the CAC on the drivers side?

 

Well I already discussed "the CAC tube that connects the compressor outlet to the IC inlet" and that is..."the CAC on the drivers side" ...so I assume you're asking about "the CAC on the passengers side"? ...and if that's the case you need to compare the temperature of the air inside the passengers side CAC tube to the temperature of the surrounding air in the engine compartment and then apply the "general rules" I gave!

The temperature of the air inside the passengers side CAC tube is equal to the MAT=Manifold Air Temperature and when operating at high BP the MAT is comparable to the engine compartment air temperature so in this case the color of the passengers side CAC tube isn't all that critical. Even though the exhaust manifold doesn't run as close to the passengers side CAC tube as it does on the drivers side it might still be a good idea to use a heat shield in the vicinity of the exhaust manifold on the passengers side similar to the one in the referenced picture for the drivers side.

 

Well the color of the paint I have available to me is silver so I guess I will give it a wirl. Anyone know the best way to clean all the crap off the manifolds and such sandblasting or is there a chemical that will clean them up better.