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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
mabc926's Avatar
mabc926
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Wiring.

Alright, my glow plugs are STILL being a PITA.

I did what everyone said to check them, I checked my switch and I'm getting 12V thru it so I know that's fine, I checked my glow plug wires and there fine, I checked my glow plugs and they look fine (no swelling tips).

So I checked my relay and I couldn't get it to do anything, I pushed the button and heard no clicking, I checked it with a voltmeter and it was dead, so I took it back to the store and got a new one, and it does the same thing!

I know it's getting power to it, it's just not turning on.

So I took some pictures for you guys to look at and see if everything is hooked up right........



There's my glow plug relay.



Here's my starter relay.



And here's just a closer look at the starter relay.


I just don't know what else it could be!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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Festus Hagen
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Glow Plug Relay ... In the image above.
The small terminal closest to you is GROUND, Ensure it is well grounded!
The small terminal furthest away (looks like a blue wire) is 12v+ from your push button (or controller (purple wire) in factory form).
The large terminal to the right is BATTERY ...
The large terminal to the left is left and right bank Glow Plugs.

So, Test that you have 12v+ on the small terminal furthest away (blue wire???) when you push your button.
Ensure you have 12v+ from the battery positive cable/terminal on the large terminal on the right.
Ensure the ground is good ... remember that plate the relay is attached to is mounted on plastic, it must be grounded as well.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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I cleaned up all my grounds and now my glow plugs are working like a charm!!

Right now I'm trying to work all the air out of the fuel lines.


Thanks again Festus!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Those grounds can be a pesky thing at times. They cause all kinds of trouble. As far as the fuel lines go, it should be easy once you get fuel comeing out of the schrader valve. after that just crack the lines at the injectors till they squirt fuel and presto whamo it runs.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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I got all the air worked out of the lines, but my starter wouldn't turn fast enough to start the truck.


I'm guessing my batteries are low.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Festus Hagen
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Yea, Diesels take good batteries to start reliably ...

Not to object to bleeding at the injectors, However unless the IP is weak, cracking Injector lines is a waste of time, the revolutions you spend cranking till you get fuel is little different then it would be if you just cranked it.

That is exactly what made Diesel's more desirable for the general public, run it out of fuel, add fuel and it'll crank start, of course it'll take two 20 second cranking cycles if you're dry to the tank!

Bleed the filter (or fill it), and start it, it'll start within the first 20 second start cycle if alls well.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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all that time spent tring to get gp's to work will drain batteries real quick.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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I was always told that the fuel wouldn't push the air out of the lines. This is nice to know, since I have the intank pump I would not even have to crank her over just bleed the filter. Guess you learn something new everyday.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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You don't even need to do that if you have an electric ... Turn the electric on and it'll self bleed pretty much everything through the return system except the Injector lines themselves in just a few seconds ... A few cranks and it'll be running!

And if you have a good layout for the returns the better it'll bleed everything with just the electric. Some return layouts leave ends dead headed ... bad idea!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
Not to object to bleeding at the injectors, However unless the IP is weak, cracking Injector lines is a waste of time, the revolutions you spend cranking till you get fuel is little different then it would be if you just cranked it.
I would not call cracking the injectors a waste of time, I had a situation were I had to once and it was the only way to get her to run.

I had the broken off pickup tube in the tank problem and would often not start on the slight slope I park on at work. Simple fix most days, coast down to flat, switch tanks, give 2 or 3 cranking cycles and she is up and running. Occasionally I pull the filter and fill with diesel kleen to speed the process up.

Then one night I hopped in, fired her up and she died... I look down and sure enough I am just below 1/4 tank! I do my coast/switch/cycle routine and nothing. Fill filter with diesel kleen... nothing. An hour later after killing my batteries on cranking cycles and checking the filter 3 different times I finally give up and cracked all injectors, get a jump start and do a total of 2 cranking cycles to get fuel out of all the injectors. Lock them all back down, glow the plugs and she fired right up!

I never did figure out why that day was so much worse then the rest but it took the cracking them open to get me home that night! Since then the pickup tube has been replaced, air intrusion fixed and now I have a nice electric primer pump mounted next to my fuel filter, flick of a switch and she is ready to go no matter what!

Anyhow just some food for thought.

oh yea mabc926 I would change that burnt yellow but connector (first pic) on the main feed wire going to the fusible link before it gives you trouble!
 
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