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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Fuel/Water Separator

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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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Fuel/Water Separator

I let mine drain for around a minute and didn't see much change in the fluid. Truck has 3500 miles, first time I've drained it so I am not sure if I was doing it right. The light didn't come on but its been over a month and I hear draining it once a month is best.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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Sounds good, you may or may not see water, you can put in clean container and let sit over night to see if you have water! Cut off, turn key on, let sit , than start!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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That is just the way it is hopefully suppose to be. No water. Still adviseable to drain monthly.

When I was driving diesels in the Army, I drained daily..good preventive maintance.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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The problem is you will never know when your going to get water, better to drain with no water than not drain at all. No harm to drain any time. This will also keep drain from sticking!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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Being that I am new to diesel's, I thought I read somewhere on this forum that the truck actually monitors this and will display messege that states it has to be drained. I'll still do it on a monthly basis as mentioned, just wanted to get a verification if the truck monitors this.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by kjstanger
Being that I am new to diesel's, I thought I read somewhere on this forum that the truck actually monitors this and will display messege that states it has to be drained. I'll still do it on a monthly basis as mentioned, just wanted to get a verification if the truck monitors this.
there is a sensor in the fuel/water separator that will display a warning on the dash, but I would rather not depend upon that as it may be too late when it comes on.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 10:01 AM
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Thanks senix, I'll do my best to do it every month for good practice.
 
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Old May 17, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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Is it unusual to have the lever on the water separator be hard to move? I don't want to force it and break it off.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JBFelsing
Is it unusual to have the lever on the water separator be hard to move? I don't want to force it and break it off.
that is a tell tale sign that you need to take that cover off, clean it all up inside. Full of crud. Don't delay.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JBFelsing
Is it unusual to have the lever on the water separator be hard to move? I don't want to force it and break it off.
There are 3 bolts around the yellow lever, that uses a Star socket, I forgot the size, I want to say T-20, anyway, take that apart and it will allow you to cleanup only the ball valve and all the trash in there. I was having issues with "not draining". Well, took the 3 minutes to take the valve off and holy moly, there was green, blue, purple stuff, dirt and slime and other things that I had no idea what it was all in and around the valve and into the filter area. Any way, once I got that cleaned out and up, reassembled and everything worked like a charm. I did it with my old filter in as I was getting ready to change. I did get a little bit of a diesel bath but not bad.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Gearitis,
That all there is to it? There is no gasket between the main housing and the valve housing? I have to replace mine--got it in hand, and wondering how to go about it.
Thanks for the above description.
Joe
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mud Doc
Gearitis,
That all there is to it? There is no gasket between the main housing and the valve housing? I have to replace mine--got it in hand, and wondering how to go about it.
Thanks for the above description.
Joe
I had no gasket. It is machined pretty tight. When I put it back on, I torqued it snugg but did not crank on it since its aluminum. Just make sure its clean, I wiped it down and out with a microfibre rag. Should be good to go.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mud Doc
Gearitis,
That all there is to it? There is no gasket between the main housing and the valve housing? I have to replace mine--got it in hand, and wondering how to go about it.
Thanks for the above description.
Joe
If you take all 5 screws out and take the cover off you will need a new gasket. They swell after you put them in and the old gasket will not fit properly. Trust me I learned the hard way . No one here stocked the gasket and it took a day or two to get in.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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FYI

44 lb-in on the drain valve cover or the manifold cover bolts per the service manual.
 
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Old May 18, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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Thanks to all who replied. I will take care of this over the weekend. I sure wish I would have done this when I changed the filter a month ago when I purchased the truck. 2008 CC Lariat 4x4. Already had the radiator & thermostats replaced under warranty. I keep a close eye on things as I'am here reading every day so I was aware of what to look for with these trucks. Still have 25,000 to go before 5yr/100K is up so the more Ford pays for the better. I keep it on the highway 95% of the time so I will be hoping for the best. I'am contemplating DPF delete when warranty is up though.
 
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