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Seems I am having the same issue. I ignored it for a long time because it rarely gets "that" cold in SoCal...until I stayed the night in Running Springs and it snowed. Had I known about the heater block cord, I woulda used it...got towed down the mountain and it started at the bottom - go figure. Cheapest online I found was on fleabay - for $99 shipped. After reading this, I will check my harness 1st. Any suggestions on how to test the GP's thru the connectors on the GPCM? I would like to be certain before plopping down any $ on a non-refundable electric part. Thanks!
Oh, and Diesel250 - I like that Bobcat! Curious - did the wicked wheel fix all the whooshing from your intake?
You want to test at the 9 pin plug of the valve cover (male pins).
The pins will be arranged like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed
You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.
Update: After testing gp's several times they tested bad, most of them that is, maybe 1 or 2 that weren't totally gone but not worth messing with.
I've had the valve covers off before so it made things go a lot faster this time. About three hours start to finish on all gp's.
The second gp back from the drivers side gave me a little trouble. The socket wouldn't release from the gp and I couldn't pull it up because of the push rod was too tight against it, so not to risk breaking it off I loosened the rocker arm. It looked like there was some crud sticking in the hole of the gp.
The engine light has gone out and AE tests all gp's as good so it was well worth the fix and of course now that winter is here it will also start better.