I know how that is!! My wife graduates this semester, so I'm pretty excited. (Both for her, and for ease of finances. )

Hopefully he was excited anyway, at least at the prospect that you're trying to do this for him (which I think is really cool) and that his truck'll be revived.

 

Yeah my wife graduates this semester too! And just like you...we are both excited! ha I think he's excited.

 

Okay so here is what I need to do the conversion right... I've seen so many lists I just want to make sure! ha

Ignition coil
Ignition mod
Wiring harness
carb off a pre '84
Distributor


Anything else?

 

Looks about right. And if you can get the carb from the mid to late 70s, even better, since it won't be calibrated towards an EGR being present. Not a show stopper, but it helps a little.

The other thing you'll need is to be sure to get a new coil wire. The feedback coil wire won't work since both ends are the same, whereas the DSII is the old style coil connection.

If you get a different carb, it may have the electric choke working, so if you're at a JY, grab the wire that runs from the alternator to the choke.

Good luck!

 

AB wrote:

That's just the thing though, if you know how it works, which most don't. Also, a lot of the parts are simply expensive if they go out because they're on such short demand
They were only on 300 trucks from 83 - 86. Ford stocking them is a lower priority, and therefore makes them expensive to those that want them. As far as I know, both the 302 and 351 V8s used the Duraspark II all the way up until they went fuel injected, so they didn't share any of the feedback carb components with the 300. Rare parts, for a system used on a small amount of trucks, where the last one was made a quarter a century ago = $$$ just because they don't have stockpiles of them sitting in the back.

I just know when I went over the 84 that I picked up a few months back, there was no way I was going to shell out the change necessary to get the feedback carb system on that back up and running. In the end, it cost me $50 to put a Duraspark II in. Granted, I did have the carb already, which helped. (I've also heard those feedback carbs are expensive!) EGR valve: $115, burned up check valve $80, MAP sensor $100, Idle speed actuator $90.

Hah! I was quickly looking at around $400 - $500 to get a $600 truck running right. This is probably worst case scenario, but still. Some of the modules were missing from the engine and were junk yard only, if I could find a working one. Not saying that's what to expect, but just that it can get expensive to get this system going again, if it's down.
I'll respectfully disagree, again. The parts are readily available and cheap if one takes the time to ask. Learn the names of the modules and pieces, and it's easy. Hint- the parts are named under the code numbers in the manual that comes with a code reader.
I suppose it's harder, though, and many won't do it, just as they won't take the time to learn about fuel injection. And let's not forget that the OP's feedback system isn't "down". It just needs help. Who knows what it will take to fix it? A temp sensor? A throttle position sensor? And if he swaps to DS II AND he has a bad carb, then what? did we help him?

Ark, I apologize for the pissing match I've been having with AB. I'll stop here unless you ask specific questions of me.

The picture in post 69 shows the spout connector clearly; it's the connector hanging just below and to the right of the dizzy. When you disconnect yours, you'll be able to time your engine properly.
Good luck.

 

I'm not entirely sure what you mean.

That was the price list for what it was going to take to fix mine. $500. Not cheap. I knew the names of the parts, what they do, etc. but it didn't change the price. I suppose I could save a few $$$ by getting the cheap import versions, but my luck with those is that they don't last more than a year.

If one part goes out, and you know what it is, fine, replace it and get it back up and running.

But post after post, year after year, of person after person cursing their feedback carb system up and down time and time again is enough to convince me that yes, there may be some that run well and do their job, but it's not something I want to mess with, or get working, when there's a highly respected, less expensive, more reliable, and easier option out there. General consensus is that the feedback system was designed by Ford to limp the carb system through for a few more years so they had time to get their EFI design done.

My $0.02

This is, of course, my opinion, and will gladly guide Arkdriver in whatever he chooses to do to get the truck running. Just trying to avoid another hair pulling, engine cursing thread is all.

No hard feelings, I didn't feel we were arguing harshly.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll do a little messing with it tonight and pull the coil and sensors off the carb and get them checked to see if they are working.



Answer me this guys. Thinking about the long run, and not just the "get it running" time period, would it be better to go ahead and do the conversion or get it running as it and go with it? Just something I'm wondering about. Thanks again guys for all the help!!!!!!!!!

 

If you're going to keep it, and if you're not going to move to an emissions state, and if you can do it all at once, go ahead.
Remember your first post; it was working good until the plugs fouled. It might me possible to get YEARS out of your present system before you need to spend much money on it.

Either way, I'll be glad to help.

 

Problem is I don't know what's wrong with it. I mean I believe its a sensor so that could get pricey right there and if 2 of those sensors are bad, we could be talking about more $$ than doing the conversion. I'd just like to get around the sensor problem by doing the conversion so I don't have to worry about that part.

 

Went to the junk yard today. Was getting a little worried till I found a 1981 Bronco with the I6. Got the carb off it and the duraspark II off it and the coil.

Anyway, will this carb work? Look right?






Going to get the rest of the items I need new. And of course I'm going to go through the carb and check things out and rebuild it probably since a rebuild kit is so cheap.

 

Heya Arkdriver, was wondering how your project was going. That looks like the right carb. Definitely could use a good cleaning!

Check two things while it's off. The first is the throttle shaft in the baseplate to be sure it doesn't have too much play (or it'll leak air), and check the small pump arm in the throttle linkage. Looks like this:



If that arm is worn, it can cause binding during acceleration.

Other than that, sounds like you're on the right track.