Ok so put many hours into the bronco this weekend. Me and a buddy completely rebuilt the carb, found that the auto choke was not working so for the time being, put a manual choke on it. I cleaned the plugs up and we got it to where it's not running rich now so one step closer I think. No smoke at tail pipe vs black smoke before weekend. I believe the rich problem was the pump in the carb. The diaphragm was cracked a little so put a new pump in it. But the problem is it is running extremely rough at idle. I mean that engine is rocking and rolling in the bay. Bush push the throttle and it smooths out. Checked the timing and got it to spec (10). We did have one problem with the timing. Where the heck is the SPOUT???? I know its over around the dist cap area, but what does it look like? I would LOVE for someone to post a picture of it to point out where its at. That would be great! ha Now what do ya'll think the rough idle could be? I am thinking about doing the duraspark II conversion but would that solve my rough idle issue? I'm thinking its a sensor somewhere that is bad so I guess if I did the conversion, and it was a sensor, in theory it would run great. Anyway thanks for all the help!!

 

In this photo you can see the SPOUT, it's grey and square. Locate the distributor in the picture and then right above the wires coming out of the ICM is the SPOUT. Plugs into a black holder socket. Just pull it out and then time to spec. Plug back in and hopefully it's running smooth like butter.

 

That doesn't look like the 4.9l I6. Is it? And if not, is the SPOUT in the same spot and look the same??

 

It's a 5.0L. I don't think Ford would have designed a different SPOUT for the inline 6. Engineering costs money too.

 

It all looks completely different on the I6 though.

So is this the SPOUT in the picture?




And could someone with a 4.9 please post a picture of the SPOUT! Thanks!

 

Also, does someone know the factory presets on the YFA Carter carb that's on these things? Just so we can make sure all the screws on the carb are in or out correctly. Thanks!

 

Heya,
Sounds like you made some progress!
I imagine a combination between the pump and the choke was causing it to run insanely rich.

As for the SPOUT, what makes you think it has one? Does it say so on the vacuum diagram in the engine bay? I'm only asking because it's not EFI. It may have one, since I'm not familiar with how to time a feedback carb setup, but not sure. If you still need a picture, I still have all the feedback carb stuff that I just pulled off my '84 (did a Duraspark II swap on it a few weekends ago), and I can look through it and see where it may be.

If not, I still recommend the DS swap. The only issue you'll run into though is that the carb will need to be swapped out too, since it relies on a lot of the feedback stuff.

As for the rough idle...it may be the timing. If you didn't disconnect the correct connection to remove advance, and you time it to 10*, it could be WAAY off.

If you get a carb rebuild kit, it should come with the correct specifications. However, any screws that are on carb are generally set per situation. On mine, there was an idle RPM, warmup idle RPM, and idle fuel/air mixture screw.
Idle should be 650 RPMs (when the engine's fully arm). Warmup idle should be 1600 RPMs (engine cold). You can tell the difference between the screws by the warmup idle screw (or kickdown I believe it's called) being the one that presses against a moving arm connected to the choke. The regular idle screw presses against the body of the carb.
As for the idle fuel/air mixture, turn it in until the engine starts to stumble (or the engine vacuum drops), and then back it out 1/4 turn. You may not be able to adjust the idle mixture screw on a feedback carb though.

Lastly, are you sure the float inside the carb is still good? If it's sinking and saturated with fuel, it'll never run right.

Glad to hear things are moving along though!

 

Thanks for the info. Yeah float was fine. replaced everything in the float assembly except for the float itself but it was fine.

Does anyone know the answer to this question about the SPOUT? Does my 1985 have one? I assumed it did after doing some research but it may not. I have no idea really.

 

Hey man. I know you said in a previous post that you'd walk me through the duraspark conversion and also supply me with a shopping list....would you mind emailing me that list? I'm thinking about doing it but would like to see the list to see what I'm getting into. ha My email is jbarker@spp.org. THANKS man!!!!!!!

Jared

 

It definately has one if you have a flat TFI style coil. The TFI coil is attahed to a bracket bolted to the fuel pump.
Your SPOUT connector is attached to the distributer wiring. Look at the dizzy and the wires that plug into it. You'll notice another connector attached to that wiring. That is the SPOUT connector. Unplug it, set you're timing, plug it back in, and you're golden.
BEFORE you start spending time and money to convert your ignition system, borrow a code reader and pull the codes. You might find something simple wrong that's easy to fix. The trouble with the TFI system is that it's pretty complicated; the good thing is that it's computer controlled and the computer will tell you what's wrong with the system.
AutoZone will pull the codes for you for free. Hell, if you lived within 50 miles I'd do it myself.

As for the DS II conversion, you'll need the following:
Dizzy from a 78-83
Module with a blue grommet from an 80-83
A regular old "round" coil and its bracket
A wiring harness from an 80-83 w/4.9, OR a 351 HO 80-86, OR a 460 80-86.
A new coil wire
I have a harness I'll give you.

Check out these threads:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-86-i-6-a.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...archid=2667351
I'll also try to post up a pic of the SPOUT connector from my old harness tonight.
Good luck.

 

Wow man! Thanks for the help! This site is wonderful!!

 

Actually, the SPOUT connector for a 4.9 IS different. It's a wire hanging from the dizzy wiring with a connector on it. To time the engine, you have to pull the connector apart, then plug it back together when you're finished. It's easy to spot, though.

 

Thanks for the info. A picture would be GREAT if at all possible. haha I always liked books with pictures.

 

Yup, that list is about it. Although, you can get them from 70s I-6s too. The DuraSpark II setup I put into my '84 a few weeks ago was from a 76 I believe. The ignition module on those is bolted to the fender itself, instead of the wheel well, but it's identical.

If you go ahead with the conversion:

Pull everything out of the engine bay from the ignition. Distributor, coil, etc. The wiring harness will run inside the truck (Huge set of wires going in through the firewall, about a 2 inch x 4 inch brick. Pull that out, along with the wires that go into the computer underneath the dash. There's some that also run over to the other side near the battery. I remember they went everywhere, and I had piles of wires.

You'll also probably need to pull out a lot the vacuum lines, since a lot of them connect to solenoids that send information to the computer.

Install the DuraSpark II distributor. You'll need to mark the old one, or set the engine to TDC and reset the distributor to cylinder 1, as well as line up the stator inside. A really easy process.

Bolt the cylinder type coil to the engine. Usually bolts to one of the bolts that holds the lifter cover on. Take note that you'll need a different coil wire. Either get a new set of wires, or pull that single wire from a truck in the junk yard. The original won't work as the coil connection is different.

Bolt the ignition module in place on the wheel well. Mine had the holes drilled for it, so they should still be there. If you get a new ignition module, you'll need some bolts. If you get a used one, be sure to take it to an autoparts store and have them check to be sure it's still good. It's a free test.

The wiring harness will hook directly into the existing wiring harness. Hook it to the leads coming out of the cab, then hook it to the distributor and ignition module, and run the leads to the coil. There'll be two extra wires left. The long one runs around the back of the engine and connects to the engine temperature sensor (it's near the rear of the engine, below the exhaust manifold), and the short one connects to the oil pressure sender, near the rear of the engine on the driver's side. A bit easier to see.

Another wire I had to get was a small wire that clipped on to the back of the alternator. It runs from the alternator up to the electric choke to heat it up. But, if you have a manual choke installed, it may not be necessary.

Be sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly. For starters, if you aren't sure where they go yet, cap everything off and run a large line from the manifold to the PVC valve, a large manifold vac line to the brake booster, and a small manifold line to the vacuum advance. Or, hook the vacuum advance to a ported vac on the distributor (a port that has no suction at idle, but does when RPMs increase). Before you hook up the vacuum advance though, cap it off and set the base timing.


That should get you started, should you decide to go that route.

 

Thanks AB.


Ok, my buddy that has been working on it with me and I have been talking and here is what we know. Thought I would post it here to see what ya'll though. Sort of long but should help some.


Here is what we know:

Overall
1. Engine light has always been on.
2. Smog pump is disconnected/has no belt on it to turn it.


Emissions & Vacuum lines:
1. Many lines are old (if not all). But none appear to be dry rotted and are flexible. This does not rule out one or two are cracked though.
2. There are lines that are disconnected here and there. One vac port at the passenger side basis of the carb is open (we hooked up line that was close to it but it didn’t help the running).
3. After reading what I tried to write I decided that it’s too hard to describe the lines without knowing the source and destinations of where the line should go, we need to get a good line diagram (we don’t have the Haynes manual currently but it's at my parents house so I can get it) and the pic on the hood is not that great.
4. Some of these lines go to sensors and we probably need to pull them and test them with voltmeters &/or have AutoZone test those that they can (e.g. TPS, etc.)


Electrical:
1. Wires are fair, I bet some are messed up that are going to and from parts that are sensors and timing related items.
2. We have not put a code reader on the Bronco.
3. Wire to choke was dead, the choke was pulled and checked and it was fried. I wonder if we have had some sensor frying elsewhere…


What has been done:
1. The carb has be rebuilt twice. The reason for the second time is because the first rebuild was a short rebuild and the accelerator pump and diaphragm was not replaced and it needed to because it keep running rich and fouling out plugs… After the second rebuild the idle black smoke cleared up great.
2. The electric choke has be converted to a manual choke
3. The timing was set at 10 btdc, with what we think is the spout unplugged. We unplugged a couple plugs that were supposedly the spout. The battery was unhooked to clear computer codes and then we plugged them back up. Timing never changed with either plug pulled AND when they were plugged back in (we did the plugs separately and timed it many times), which I was thinking the timing would be different after the spout was plugged back up so the computer can change timing. It’s like the computer is unplugged the whole time which I am wondering if there are some shorts or some bad grounds.
4. Has new cap, rotor, and plugs but the plugs were getting fouled out quick before the accelerator pump was replaced.
5. The plugs have been cleaned once, and I think we need to clean them again as it probably needs it. (We haven’t took a butane torch to them to burn off the soot yet, just a spark plug cleaner and a brush, which doesn’t hit everything that needs to be cleaned).
6. Has a new deverter or air supply check valve (whatever it is called –I think it goes to the smog pump and then to the exhaust)
7. CARB—The idle mixture screw has been adjusted every way, it will make it run rich, but it will not kill the engine with it all the way turn in. (it would be nice to know the preset on this 1.5 turns out?), I would think the idle mixture screw would kill the engine when turned all the way in, which is why the throttle screw was looked at..
8. CARB—The throttle screw has been adjusted back and forth and doesn’t seem to help so it is basically where it started.
9. CARB—the fast cam screw was adjusted a lot and it didn’t help either. It has been removed so we may need to put it back, it has been converted to a manual choke.
10 new fuel pump, new filter, pcv valve check and cleaned, new plug wires, fresh fuel and we are tuning it with the air filter and housing off so the carb can be adjusted easily.
11. OVERALL—I think we need to clean the plugs as it gets worst and worst and dies out, need to get all ignition parts checked (ignition module, coil, etc.), and figure out what all sensors are in play when the engine is running without the spout. Then figure out all the vacuum line source and destination and check them all for cracks. Figure out what these are doing and figure out if these parts are bad that are on the carb (dash pot sensor?-, feedback solenoid/sensor, TPS,etc.), and figure out how to test them to know if they are bad or not.. Also I didn’t look for a oxygen sensor—I wonder if it one has one… I kick myself for not checking the coil and ignition module with the voltmeter last night…


So that is pretty much where we are at. What do you think???