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Ok, it's getting cooler so I now have no excuses to not get some progress going on the truck. It has been probably 120 or more degress in my garage in the evenings and that killed my enthusiasm for getting in and working on the truck.
Ok, I'm back to tackling the rear pass cab corner and I have a replacement from Mid 50 (its been a while but I think that's where I got it). The issue I'm having is getting the bottom to fit where it attaches down by the rocker/door jam. First I had to make some horizontal slices to get it to bend to the contor of the door jam area and I have that part figured out but the very bottom 2 inches sticks out from the edge where the door/rocker area. I made a few cuts on it to see if I could get it to fit like original but I'm afraid I'm about to make a "hack" job of the patch. I have searched the group looking for others with simular problems but not found anyone in the same situation.
Does anyone have any pics of modifications they had to do in that particular area to get things to fit or have some advice from their patch install. Pics would be better but please don't be shy if you don't have any to share...Im just a little slow without pictures
i have to do the front of cab bottom hope it isnt stamped out ruffly do you have to replace the kick panel found mine has a tin butcher patch good luck i am going to follow along maybe someone has the answer
My front kick panel looks good except for a few rust holes that should require small patches. My only real patch work will be drivers side front and rear and the passenger rear I'm currently working on. I'm hoping the others go much smoother. I have come across some great info on the front replacement though. I believe "bobby" (I hope I'm close on that user name) has a great how to but that covers the front corner.
Here is what the area I'm talking about. I borrowed this pic from Classic Trucks web article that 56 Panel Ford posted. My problem is there is a gap and it doesn't sit flush. I'll get a actual pic when I get home later tonight.
Ok, here is an actual picture of my cab corner patch. You can see the bottom with the gap. I looked at it tonight and think if I bend the edge straight (where it's L shaped) and trim it until it would hit the door jam bottom, trim the excess and then cut a small piece to patch as original. So I would pretty much be extending the L bend. I think that will work and hopefully I wont do too much damage to the replacement corner.
do ya think it slipped in the die when they made it. or they sent wrong one. your going to have to do a lot of rework good luck id be smoken pay good money and fight it i bought all my patch pannels form them also. if ther phone line is busy you know why.
You're lining up the lip on the correct section? Looks too far to the left?
The cab corner I got from them and used on the drivers side needed some work to get it to fit but i got there in the end. Think of the patch panel as the basic form that gets you started.
I trimmed part of the double lip (L-bend) off on mine - it made it much easier to work into place.
Yep it should be in the correct position and I say that because everything else lines up correctly. The gapped area seems like it wasn't bent "in" far enough (extend far enough into the door jam) at that point. I'm thinking if I cut the top of the "L" shape off and extend the flat area to where it fills in the gap and then weld on a new flat strip to the top it should fit better....I think.
I have used many patch panels and I can safely say that none were an exact fit. Why you ask...because none of the cabs that Ford built were exactly the same. The 56 I am working on right now had a mismatch in the pinch weld seam on the rear cab corner that was so bad that the factory spot weld didn't even attach the two flanges together. But I digress...here is a photo of one of the cab repairs I did using Midfifties (and virtually every other vendor who sells these "Made in China") repair panels. This cab needed both the inner and outer corners, the lower jamb, and the rocker replaced. As you can see in this picture, the lower flange on the cab corner is sticking out a bit from the mating surface on the jamb. What is needed is to tap the flange in so that it can be welded. As for the curve on the corner, that should not be a problem as it is the area that should be fitted first.
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