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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Maybe a FICM problem

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:13 AM
  #16  
gearloose1's Avatar
gearloose1
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Originally Posted by bismic
(btw - the issues w/ the FICM most likely aren't a Ford design issue, but instead a quality control issue. I believe that the location of it was to protect it from vibration, heat, and moisture - well as much as possible and not require the cost of an extra long cable.)

The E series mount the FICM on the body --- and with that change, correspondingly far lower failure rates.

This is despite a large number of diesels operated in extreme conditions as ambulances --- mind you the E 6.0 is derated.

IMHO, if I had an F,

I would, without lengthening the cable, try to at the very least,

remove the box from the engine and mount it to the body

Add in a system of heat shields (to reflect radiant heat from engine) and insulation to limit heat from the exhaust conducting into the box.

Then, I would add an insulated duct to bring in cold air.

If I were towing and operating in desert like climates, I would add a thermostatically controlled powered fan that measures temperature at the box to draw in cold air.

I would not let the box get within 40ish% of the melting point of the solder on there.

That is 220C - 430F.

I would set the limit at 150C or 300F

Actual calculations will need a EE that does thermal envelope calculations and ideally, have a simulator that can model the components in that box.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:16 AM
  #17  
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gearloose1
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Solder tip.

If you are really good with soldering --- e.g. skilled and have high quality industrial grade equipment.

Consider changing over to a silver hard solder.

It will only help the joints that are repaired (the most critical), and only if you are able to remove a majority of the solder on it.

The risk you run with higher temperature solder is damaging the components as you solder.

Not a bad bet in skilled hands.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #18  
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brickie
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From: AB/BC
I did mine with a crappy iron and plumbing solder and a magnifying glass,haven't had a lick of trouble with it since.I am lucky I guess
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #19  
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gearloose1
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brickie

Or sheer competence and good workmanship by brickie!
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #20  
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brickie
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From: AB/BC
Originally Posted by gearloose1
brickie

Or sheer competence and good workmanship by brickie!
LOL,I am lucky
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
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cmcowboy
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From: Bradenton Florida
Originally Posted by brickie
LOL,I am lucky
Hopefully I have the same amount of luck. I know I have a issue with the FICM (Voltage test 4 times) so I'm going to fix that first. Next Im worried about the IPR maybe causing the couple surges I have had in the past. (Fingers crossed)
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #22  
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cmcowboy
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From: Bradenton Florida
Another question, has anyone done buisness with Ford 6.0 FICM | Circuit Board Medics
They are a little lower price on there repair then Swamp.
Still not 100% on doing this myself, if I happen to damage something trying to fix it myself I could loss a core charge.
Thanks everyone!!
 
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:17 AM
  #23  
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gearloose1
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Hey -

A competent computer / electronics repair shop that does circuit board repair, in your neck of the woods,

Given the printed instructions from the Master Bismic here.

Can do a fine job.

You don't risk sending it off (and losing it or having it damaged in shipping).


Swamp, IMHO, is a swamp.

Go local.

If it doesn't work, you are back to them --- smiling with the part in your hands.
 
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