Hey guys, bare with me on this one...did I screw up my FICM? So the long story is that I've had my truck in my sig for just over 5 years and while it was still under warranty I had 4 injectors and the FICM replaced due to cold start issues. Well last winter the truck was just starting to show a bit of a stumble first start in the morning so a few months ago I bought an Auto Enginuity with enhanced Ford package. I haven't had a chance to screw around with it too much, but I did plug it into the truck, pulled the codes (there we're quite a few but no CEL), and cleared all of the stored codes to see if any of them would come back.

Now fast forward to last weekend. My Dad and I were driving up to our cabin for a Thanksgiving hunting trip (Canadain Thanksgiving). Half way on the drive we stopped for a bite to eat and he took over driving duties. So I got the idea that since he was driving I may as well plug in the AE and see what sort of numbers the truck is throwing out (such as the oil temp and coolant temp to see how healthy my oil cooler was). Well thats when all hell broke loose and the truck started acting up. I had just plugged the AE into the OBD II port and connected it to my laptop (didn't even get a chance to open up the AE program) and the truck started to cut in and out violently, my EDGE moniter went completly blank as if it was off, and we coasted to the side of the highway (sorry Dad!!!). I unhooked everything, cycled the key, and the truck fired up (the EDGE moniter came back on), and the truck drove like nothing happened.

So the next day I plugged the AE in to see if the truck had anything to say about our little fit on the highway the day before and there it was. The dreaded P0611 code that the truck had when it went in under warranty and had the FICM replaced. The P0611 code was not there before when I scanned the truck for DTC's when I had first bought the AE but now it was there! Thinking the code might have been thrown because of the fit on the highway, I resetted all of the DTC's, and we went for a drive around the back logging roads came back and I let the truck sit over night. The next morning I plugged the AE back into the truck and indeed the P0611 code had come back so I monitered the FICM power and battery volts while I warmed the truck up. KOEO the battery voltage was 12.4V and the FICM main power was a solid 48.5V (so far so good), started the truck and thats when things went down hill. The battery volts were a steady 14v but the FICM main power dropped to 40V! The truck started the same with a bit of stumble however the voltage was reading way too low. As the truck was warming up the FICM main power started to increase untill it seemed to top out at 47.5-46v's. After the truck had warmed I increased the engine speed to just over 2000 rpm's and the FICM main power started to drop to around 44v, and when I went back to an idle the FICM's main power started to increase again.

So to my questions....did I cause my FICM to go haywire by plugging in the AE while going down the road? Is there anything I should try or look at before I rip the FICM out and replace it or have it rebuilt? Since I wasn't setting off the P0611 code prior to this trip I assume that my FICM was in good order before my fit on the highway so I'm not sure if a simple re-soldier is going to help with much. Any help on what I should do? Thanks guys!

 

I doubt you plugging the AE in while driving had anything to do with the FICM dying, it is a common failure. Its time to send your FICM off to Ed at www.FICMrepair.com for some much needed lovin.

 

Its Possessed LOL

The AE shouldn't have made FICM go Bad

However you can control certain things with AE (IDK Much on it though) But FICM Volts isn't one of them

You need a FICM Rebuild most likely

Iv seen a couple cases where the FICM Relay caused FICM Main Power Voltage issues


If I was you I would clean ALL Battery cables and make shure to clean the Grounds At BOTH Ends

Hows the ALternator and Batterys???they can Wreck Havoc on the FICM

In long run you need to get a High Output Alternator and your FICMs will Last Longer

 

Hard telling on the violent actions of the truck. I wouldn't think the ficm volts being 44 would make it do that. Mine dropped to somewhere about 24v and I could just tell it was missing.

 

P0611 = FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM power or other internal FICM failure.

This plus the voltage at 40 means your FICM failed. You're lucky it even started back. Plugging in AE had absolutely nothing to do with it. A FICM reflash "might" fix the problem but with the voltage below 45 ANYTIME it means your FICM has failed and you need to send it to Ed@Ficmrepair.com

 

Or you can buy a complete FICM for $198 from a Master Diesel Technician. Just giving you another option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-6-0-POWERSTROKE-DIESEL-FUEL-INJECTOR-CONTROL-MODULE-FICM-F250-550-OR-VAN-/331045687662?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d13dc516e&vxp=mtr

 

+++1^^^^I had the same experience 23v and the truck ran pretty good considering, injectors skipped some but the truck still got me to the house.

 

How did you plug in the AE? Just curious if you have an OBD2 splitter, or how you plugged in both items.

 

If you plugged it in while on the road just wondering if you could have cross shorted a pin or two. I always plug in with the truck turned off and then turn the key on.

 

I'm kind of leaning the same way. Doesn't Edge use the OBD2 port? If there was a power cord in the mix and it was plugged into the Cig and a short happened, would that have an effect on the PCM? Since they (OBD2 port) are connected through one fuse?

 

Plugging into the OBDII port did not cause your FICM to fail. Note also that your voltage may be much lower than 40 since the AE tool only shows down to 40.

There are a TON of places to send your FICM into be fixed. Some are more, most are cheaper. We work on both the logic side and the power side of the FICM, don't just resolder what's there, use anywhere from 'just' OEM components to ones that are in cases triple the ratings of what the OEM used (based on your service election) and even offer re-tuning services on your FICM. Every module benefits from not only thorough bench testing, but also an install in our test 6.0 just to make doubly certain that all is well.

Let me know what questions you have. We can totally take care of you!

Ed

 

I had ED repair mine with the premium rebuild and a 40 hp tune. Shipped it out monday and got it back thursday. He lives about an hr from me but turn around was really fast. I really think it is worth the extra money to have everything gone through and have some piece of mind. Mine was down to 18v at 1700 RPM within 10 minutes of noticing drive ability problems. They can fail in a hurry. Mine went in the middle of summer, good batteries, just took a crap.

 

IMO having Ed fix it is MUCH better than buying a new one from Ford/International. Even the new ones come with weak components.

BPD offers a new and redesigned Power Supply Board (with redundancy) that looks good, but AFAIK they do not address the logic board. Their power supply board has received good reviews.

Lots of testimonials for the relaibility of the FICMs that Ed rebuilds (mine is and I have a few spares he has worked on)! Based on my experience and that of MANY people on multiple forums, FICMrepair.com is my first choice to resolve this common problem.

 

I know it made a HUGE difference in the way my truck started and I had no "visible" voltage problems OR codes being thrown.

 

Hey nc how ya been trying to keep this aimed at the tread
Would you give me the scoop Ed Im keepedmy old ficm
Cause well ive been called Fred Sanford anyway, sounds like keeping a spar
Ficm is good insurance ...and sorry Ed I'd didn't get from to begin with
Orielys was a lot closer and more expensive but gotter done

Oh and same here on the start huge difference after ficm replace and the only prob I had on the old ficm is eoko
Voltage went down towards 22 just for an instant then right back up
These guys rule