Hey guys,

I'm at my wits end with this thing and I would appreciate a few things to check before towing it to the dealer.

Symptoms. Cranks but does not start hot or cold, cannot hear injectors cycle with key on.

History.

-Always ran bad when cold even after new FICM, synthetic oil and 2 new injectors. ran great when hot. Ran best with SCT XCAL II programmed with innovative tow aggressive and has been on that tune for 2 years now

-Started running really bad when cold a few weeks ago after I did an oil change and fuel filter change. Oil was 15w40 Rotella T, filters were Motorcraft.
Thought it might be oil too thick, dumped it (after 2 days) and put in Rotella 5w40 synthetic. No real change other than a bit more power and a little louder.

-Last week did FICM voltage check and it was right on 48 volts with key on, turning over and when running.

-A few days ago it started to puff blue and stumble badly on acceleration. it was intermittent and seemed to get better after.

-Yesterday truck seemed to run well once warmed up, only did the stumble/blue smoke twice. Came home shut truck off. Came out 15 minutes later and truck started wierd, ran really slow and quiet for a few seconds then died and WOULD NOT RESTART. Cranks normally, both batteries are good. Just doesn't fire at all.

-Did FICM voltage check again, 48 v w/key on however I DO NOT hear the injectors cycling at all when I turn on the key! I can hear the fuel pump and a little compressor? but no injector cycling. Disconnected ICP, still no start.

Batteries are good
Fuel is fresh DIESEL and near full
FICM has 48 volts w key on
oil is Rotella 5w40 T6 and is halfway on the dipstick

The puffing blue, bad running when cold and now a cranks but no start led me to think one of the injectors upper o-rings has blown out and that was todays project, to check. But now this "NO CYCLING" has thrown me for a loop.

What direction should I go from here, what checks can I do at home? I have most basic tools and am an aircraft mechanic.

Thanks

-

 

Have any 16GA wire laying around try this....



See in the photo that says no power with a leaf pointing to it.... attach that wire from your positive lead on the battery, stick it in that spot and put the relay back in...when I lost my injector buzz and the FICM tested good. I did that and it got it running enough to get it fixed.

I have no idea how it got fixed...thats the only time i had a shop work on my truck...

 

UPDATE

-stripped wires back and did ICP voltage check (in tech folder, thank you to the poster) and got zero volts. After much crying I realized it should probably be plugged into the ICP sensor lol. Then got over 2 volts when cranking so I think I can rule out the HPOP as a problem.

-Also checked FICM voltage when cranking and it was bang on 48 volts.

Where is the IDM and does it control the injector cycling?

Going out now to check wiring

 

Thanks Tyler,

Was really excited to try this out, which I did but it didn't change anything, still no cycling with key on and no start. Thanks for the reply and the great pic!

 

Ahh man, sorry about that. Worth a shot.

Anyways I think the ficm is the only thing that controls the injector buzz since the harness plugs directly into that.

Check the ground to it...it's on one of the intake manifold bolts.

Even though it tested good to your tests. It still could be bad

 

Just because the FICM/IDM has 48 volts doesn't mean it's not bad. Get a real code scanner and check it for codes. Has the STC fitting been changed?

 

Thanks again guys,

According to Oasis. the HPOP and fitting were replaced in 06.

A new or used FICM is next, wreckers here want $650.00, I think ford is cheaper.

 

So I threw the FICM back in this morning, still nothing. I just plugged in the harness though, I did not mount it yet, hope it's not case grounded.

I could not find an external ground for the FICM on the valve cover.

Now trying to get a second vehicle to get to work and I'm going to pay for a used FICM first ($200.00) vice a $70.00 tow and $220.00 diagnostic (dealer said 2 hr for diesel) I have an OBDII reader (auto x-ray) somewhere, I'll see if it picks up anything, my XCAL II found nothing.

Thanks, I'll keep updating.

 

It might just be worth spending the extra 90$ to have the dealer tell you what is wrong with it....

If its not the FICM then you out 200$ right there....

Then you have 2 good ones laying around...

 

no injector buzz means either no voltage to power ficm or ficm is dead.

 

Ya that's true but at least I could resell it pretty easily or keep a spare lol. I'm 90% sure it's the FICM, I'll check to make sure I've got 12v going to it. If I did know for sure then I should get a 58v FICM from Swamps that everyone is talking about. Ford is closed for the long weekend now so I can't do anything else til Tuesday.

Thanks guys, I'll let you know

 

UPDATE.

Got a new FICM, that was the problem.

Thanks for all the help, it made spending $900.00 on "it could be it" a little easier lol.