they are metric cant remember may 12x 125 just pull one and measure. If no one answers I will go down to the shed aftyer work and see what they are. As to finding a bolt to cut the heads off I dont think you will, you will need to get some steel rod stock and thread them. As I said these are around 15 inches long and bolts that long can be expensive to buy if you can find them. Actually I used the side bosses and not the bottom ones.

 

I can pull one and measure....this place has a lot of stuff Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online I am a little confused.......the 2 "rods" are made to go temporarily in the engine in place of the 2 bottom bolts and act as a guide...... right? Why do they have to be so long?.......in theory 3 or 4 inches would work to help hold/guide the tranny in place right? or am I missing something

 

Which is why I went with threaded rod - as I could not locate any 10" long bolts to cut the heads off of. Aand, even if I could have, it was obvious that they would have been more money than the threaded rod cost me. I bought a 3ft stick of threaded rod & hack-sawed off two 10" sections from it, filed the ends a bit so they'd thread in without a hitch. I was good to go..... As I mentioned earlier, I also used the side bosses/bolt holes, not the bottom ones.

FYI: My recent clutch replacement in the Wrangler used 12mm bolts with 1.75 (coarse) thread. So I bought a chunk of 12mm threaded rod. I don't recall what the bolt size was in the '94 Ranger.

They need to be that long because you want the bellhousing to be lined up straight with the block BEFORE the input shaft engages with the clutch disc & pilot bearing. Once it's lined up, then it all should slide together with just a slight wiggling of the harmonic balancer to align the splines of the clutch disc to the splines on the input shaft.


Yeah, I've heard and tried the "hydraulic method" of pilot bearing removal by filling with grease and smacking a close-sized OD bolt to try to pop out the bearing. It didn't work so good for me, it just sprayed grease everywhere! So with the Ranger and the recent Wrangler, I simply inspected the pilot bearing, smeared in a small pea-sized dab of wheel bearing grease and called it good. No problems or regrets since. Had they looked bad, then I would have changed them out.

As far as the flywheel, I wouldn't remove it unless it is grooved or burnt to the point where you feel you need to get it machined/turned or you plan to replace it. Also remember, if you choose to get it machined, you're lightening it and it'll have less material to abosorb generated heat. You may find that a new flywheel is nearly the same price as getting yours machined, and you'll not be ending up with a thinner/lighter flywheel. Lastly, it can be a real challenge to torque down the flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts without turning the crankshaft - unless you have a tool or strap to hold the flywheel from turning. The flywheels in my Ranger and in the Wrangler were not needing replacing or machining, so I simply degreased it well with a can of brake cleaner and scuffed the clutch disc matting surface good with some 80-grit sandpaper, then degreased it again. Good to go.....I also degreased/sprayed down the new pressure plate and clutch disc, then with new lock washers on the six attaching bolts, I evenly torqued the pressure plate onto the flywheel in a star pattern while having the alignment tool in place to keep the clutch disc centered in the pressure plate center opening and straight within the crank pilot bearing.

BarnieTrk

 

That was all good info...........I think I am understanding the rod thing now..........do you put the rods in the tranny or the enigne

 

one more question........for people that have replaced there clutch and or slave. What brand did you use. I just looked up some reviews for the Perfection slave and there were a lot of complaints about the coupling connection sucking........and disconnecting randomly

 

On the Wrangler I just did last week, I threaded them into the engine block bolt bosses. The transmission bellhousing bolt holes were not threaded, so they would NOT have threaded into the trans anyway. If I had to guess, I'd say that the Ranger is the same way. Now with the Wrangler, it also worked out well because the engine bolt holes were threaded all the way through - so it allowed me to adjust the length of the threaded rods by just turning them in or out accordingly.

Sorry, I can't help ya any with brand names for the slave cylinder stuff. I bought the Wrangler clutch package from: Clutch City Online

BarnieTrk

 

they have to be LONGER than the main shaft so you can guide the trans into position. So measure from the face of the bell housing to the end of the exposed shaft and you will know how much they need to be plus add a coupleof inches for work room.