New clutch
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New User
Joined: Oct 2015
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New clutch
I'm replacing the clutch in my 4x4 extended cab short box, what all will I need and how long does it usually take? I could take it to a shop but would rather do it myself if I could save some $$$
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Welcome to the site.
With a good selection of basic hand tools and a jack it should take you a day to R/R it all. Being 4wd adds to the parts you need to unhook.
Are you planning on having the flywheel surfaced? I would.
Are you replacing hydraulic throw out bearing? I would since you have it apart. If not, you'll be pulling it apart again someday when it decides to leak.
With a good selection of basic hand tools and a jack it should take you a day to R/R it all. Being 4wd adds to the parts you need to unhook.
Are you planning on having the flywheel surfaced? I would.
Are you replacing hydraulic throw out bearing? I would since you have it apart. If not, you'll be pulling it apart again someday when it decides to leak.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 583
From: Chillicothe
Two pieces of all thread about a foot long to thread into two bellhousing bolt holes. After they are threaded in remove remaining bellhousing bolts and you can slide the trans back far enough to do the job and easily slide the trans back into place. That's what I did to change my slave cylinder and it was so easy to reassemble
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 8
Two pieces of all thread about a foot long to thread into two bellhousing bolt holes. After they are threaded in remove remaining bellhousing bolts and you can slide the trans back far enough to do the job and easily slide the trans back into place. That's what I did to change my slave cylinder and it was so easy to reassemble
cool idea though. just did a rear main seal on an automatic ... wonder if it would have helped there ?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 856
Likes: 3
From: Livonia, MI
As another poster said, definitely replace the throw out bearing while you're in there. You'll need a bearing puller and slide hammer for that. Also, replace the slave cylinder too. If you do have the flywheel re-ground (a good idea), make sure that the tolerances are still met. If it has been re-surfaced a few times already, you may need to install shims behind it.
I did it in about 8-10 hours one weekend, but I had never done anything so drastic (as far as car repair goes) before, plus I was by myself - with no trans jack. I was under my truck - feet toward the front, and was lifting the trans with my legs and guiding it onto the threaded rods with my hands! Lets just say that it must've looked like I "really loved my trans" in that position!!!
I did it in about 8-10 hours one weekend, but I had never done anything so drastic (as far as car repair goes) before, plus I was by myself - with no trans jack. I was under my truck - feet toward the front, and was lifting the trans with my legs and guiding it onto the threaded rods with my hands! Lets just say that it must've looked like I "really loved my trans" in that position!!!
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I have a REAL hard time finding 7/16-14 all thread.
Maybe just get a couple of real long bolts.
If you're not going to pull it all the way out you don't even need to cut the heads off.
If you do, use the disc to cut a slot in the end of the shank for a screwdriver.
I think the above poster has mistaken the PILOT bearing for the throwout.
Throwout bearing/slave assemblies in small displacement trucks are just held in with screws. Large (460/7.3 diesels) have an external slave and arm assembly.
Yeah, change the bearing/bushing in the end of the crank.
Maybe just get a couple of real long bolts.
If you're not going to pull it all the way out you don't even need to cut the heads off.
If you do, use the disc to cut a slot in the end of the shank for a screwdriver.
I think the above poster has mistaken the PILOT bearing for the throwout.
Throwout bearing/slave assemblies in small displacement trucks are just held in with screws. Large (460/7.3 diesels) have an external slave and arm assembly.
Yeah, change the bearing/bushing in the end of the crank.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
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From: Boston, KY
Doing it yourself builds character. It's really not a big deal, just a bit of a pain to deal with the weight of the transmission. Use a jack on wheels - you'll be glad you did.
I picked up a bearing puller but forgot to get the slide hammer...don't forget to get both. A clutch kit should come with all of the bearings you need.
I picked up a bearing puller but forgot to get the slide hammer...don't forget to get both. A clutch kit should come with all of the bearings you need.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
I wouldn't even bother with a resurfaced flywheel. I would just spend the extra cash and put a new one in. That's just one more problem solved.
And if your getting a new slave cylinder, be sure to buy a Motorcraft one. Stay away from the parts store versions or you'll be doing it again in no time.
And if your getting a new slave cylinder, be sure to buy a Motorcraft one. Stay away from the parts store versions or you'll be doing it again in no time.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 583
From: Chillicothe
X2 I am running a "house brand" slave cylinder from O'Reilly and its functional... But feels spongey and sometimes the pedal sticks down for a split second and if I don't catch it, its like dumping the clutch. I suppose it doesnt have to be Motorcraft but at least brand name
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 583
From: Chillicothe
I haven't put a centerforce in this truck, but I put a dual friction Centerforce in my old s10.... Never again in a street vehicle. It was a light switch, on or off no in between. Not saying it wasn't a good clutch, but don't get carried away. If you aren't racing just a standard clutch, maybe the 11" clutch for an f250 is fine
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