Hey guys i just bought myself a 2001 f-350 4x4 crew cab, 6 speed and it needs a clutch.

I was wondering what would be your guys recommendations for a clutch kit, i am eventually looking to get a 33 foot toy hauler, and i live in california. I plan to take this thing up in the mountains on weekends. So i am looking for some sorta of HD clutch.

 

South Bend seems to be the most favored from what I've read over the last 15 years

 

I've heard that for years, about South Bend being THE diesel truck clutch to get. However, I was recently looking at some product descriptions for their various clutches. First, the idea of substantially softer pedal effort, for a HD clutch doesn't sound right to me. It should be the opposite.

Second, and far more troubling is a little foot note I almost missed, about they "suggest" that you keep downshifting to an absolute minimum because it supposedly "flexes" the pressure plate and causes uneven/premature wear to the clutch. Uh - huh. I see, So, in order to use this companies supposedly superior clutch products, I have to NOT use my manual transmission in the way that every manual transmission ever is fundamentally designed/engineered/intended to operate? You are supposed to shift, both up AND DOWN, whenever and as often as needed, to keep the engine in the optimal rpm range for operating conditions/requirements at all times.

If your product won't live a normal long life without me abandoning a fundamental operating method of the transmission, then your product ( the South Blend clutch/pressure plate) is a poorly designed piece of crap with a serious design/engineering failure.

I constantly shift (up and down) as needed. That is how you are supposed to drive a manual trans. So, thanks to that little almost hidden warning I found, I will never even consider a South Bend clutch.

 

If your truck doesnt have a tuner, and you don't foresee adding one, get another stock clutch - they last forever. If you're tuned, or want to add one, you'll want something more for a clutch.

FWIW, the lighter clutch pedal feel from a South Bend is irrelevant to the performance of the clutch. That's like saying a compound bow won't shoot as fast as a recurve since the let-off is easier to hold. Their clutches are designed and built different. As for "don't downshift," I never saw that on their site, and don't really care - their reputation for durable clutch manufacturing is stellar. But do whatever you want. Valair and LUK are other manufacturers to consider.

 

As has been mentioned, it all depends on what kind of additional power you might or might not add. I get around 225,000 miles out of a stock clutch. The granny gear is useful in getting things rolling if you're pointing uphill or have 22,000 lbs behind you.

You won't be having to slip the clutch a bunch to get going with these trucks, so stock power means a stock clutch will do just fine.

Be sure and replace the clutch hydraulics at the same time. And I believe you should have the upgraded clutch fork, but check to make sure since that's a worthwhile upgrade if the transmission is already out.

 

I agree with F350-6. A stock clutch kit should be fine. As for downshifting, I've never done it. It seems to rob power and that sucks fuel economy. I'm either accelerating or I'm in neutral and I get 18.3mpg in town

 

http://www.southbendclutch.com/Frequ..._Questions.pdf
Go to the last page. The wording is slightly different then what I saw elsewhere, but they are still saying "don't downshift".

 

Q: Is it ok to use my clutch as a brake?
A: What you are talking about is the age-old practice of downshifting. Even though we all learned that this is an acceptable way to slow down…it’s really not. If a person is in the habit of driving this way, they will wear out the drive surfaces of their clutch well before they should. A little known fact is that a clutch is designed to torque in one direction only. When you downshift, you send a reverse thrust through the drive train, which causes the dampening portion of the clutch disc to torque in the wrong direction. This will accelerate the wear of the clutch.


I think you are referring to this. We aren't talking about the pressure plate we are talking about the clutch disc and the dampening springs working and wearing on hard deceleration. By all means we want people to down shift. What we are trying to say is there is a proper way and a improper way. Matching RPM is the proper way. Using the clutch as a braking system is not.

Peter

 

Well, when you put it like that, it makes more sense. Of course you want to match rpms. Perhaps it would be helpful if the statement were clarified, in the way you just did, because whats on the website implies differently.

Also, to be clear the original statement that got me concerned was not on your website, but one of your vendors, and again, it stated it a little differently, in a way that was clearly saying to avoid downshifting as much as possible.
Here is the direct quote:
"NOTE: It's very important to Break-In your clutch with 500 miles of stop and go driving before you pull a load.
Your clutch will last longer if you avoid down-shifting whenever possible. Down-shifting flexes the pressure plate, causing uneven wear. Just remember, Use your breaks instead--they're are alot less expensive to replace! "

Do any of your clutches, with a higher hp rating then stock (around 375-400hp) have a pedal effort equal to stock, or slightly HIGHER? I don't want a "soft" clutch pedal. It's a DD/work truck, no towing but up to 4k in the bed sometimes. Lots of stop-and-go traffic, so nothing "grabby".

 

Our 1939-DF uses the factory pressure plate so the same pedal feel you have now but we change from the organic clutch disc to a heavy duty clutch disc that uses Kevlar and ceramic buttons and has a decent engagement.

 

This is interesting... And another reason to stick with an automatic. Using engine compression to slow down or limit speed is standard practice in the area where I grew up. On a long downhill you would overheat your brakes if you just used them.

In fact, there are signs on most of those grades indicating for trucks to use a lower gear.

I would consider any clutch that might be damaged by engine braking defective (or a bad design).

Richard

Edt: unless I am reading this wrong (I have been known to be wrong from time to time), I am seeing that even matching RPM (clutch at zero slip) the South bend clutch could be damaged by using engine braking. Correct?

 

If Southbend is saying you should never downshift, I'll never have a Southbend.

My first truck was a 64 model I bought as a kid. I've been downshifting since I got it. The Ford factory clutch has lasted me around 225,000 miles while downshifting twice now. And that's not counting the 100k on the 99 I had that got totaled and never had a clutch replacement.

I'll buy the part about the clutch disc being made to handle torque in one direction, but I've got some news for the so called performance clutch guys. Downshifting while slowing down doesn't produce anywhere on the same chart in terms of torque production. You're telling me a 400 hp rated clutch can't handle a downshift that raises the RPM's 400 or so? I know a stock clutch can handle it for over 200,000 miles without complaining. And even then when the stock clutch does start to slip, it's only under heavy acceleration or by mashing on the skinny pedal when you're high on the torque curve or hauling a heavy, heavy load.

So I'll change my vote to say if you want an upgraded clutch, Luk or Valair are the options to look at.

 

The only suggestion I have for South Bend Clutch is to spell your user name fully and correctly. If a detail is missed in the name, it suggests that a detail may go missing on a product, like a liner or a spring. Or it makes the company look "clutc" (pronounced clutzy).

South Bend Clutch has a darn good reputation... no matter what they suggest about how to downshift. I know what they mean... I've heard those shifts where the kids let out the clutch to a low gear and the vehicle drops speed by 50% in one clutch stroke. I think that's what South Bend is cautioning against... not gradual speed reducing downshifting.

And I'm fairly impressed that Peter stepped right up and joined the forum to engage the members who are concerned about South Bend's recommendations and how to interpret them.

My suggestion on the username tune up still stands though!

 

I use a Valeo (OE supplier). The disc surface area is larger than, say, the Sachs that I used earlier.