Before I get into replacing the clutch on my 93 Ranger 3.0 5-spd, I'm wondering if this is a job I should get into myself or just pay someone. I would be saving myself approx $450, but what aggravation am I getting myself into? Are there any special tools that I would need to buy/rent? The trans was dropped less than 2000 miles ago when I paid a shop to replace the leaking slave - the idiots didn't inspect and replace the clutch, which was 2 years old, and it turns out that it has fluid all over it and is slipping to the point it's basically undriveable after a few miles. Any opinions, suggestions or pointers are appreciated as always.

 

Mechanical ability? Ever change a clutch on any other? What might seem easy to one person may be out of the question to another.

 

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined - I've done a clutch in a 76 toyota celica (years ago)

 

as far as knowledge:
there are so many tutorials available on the internet, and probably a few here as well, plus its a good idea to aquire tech manuals. i have a nice little collection now that didnt cost much, and is really working out well.

as far as tools:
at a minimum if youre going to try and perform any work you need a supreme socket set that has standard/metric, everything. also a set of regular wrenches. various pliers, chanel locks, strippers, crimpers, hammers, files, screwdrivers, jackstands, possibly transmission jack, good quality jack. safety glasses *pieces of rust and crud will fall into your eye, hearing protection, gloves....many mechanics die of cancer, and its no mystery if you read the back of the oil container protect your skin from absorbing any chemicals such as antifreeze or oil its a must. bloody knuckles are not good either.

then it has to boil down to whether or not you have the patience and respect for the project that you are not in a sense going to overlook anything or second guess yourself on anything or not get frustrated.
tools are expensive but the more you use them the better you get, and you save yourself thousands on repairs not going to a mechanic. and alot of people often get ripped off.

you dont have to know anybody elses vehicle here. its not learning how to work on a hundred different types of vehicles. its just one vehicle. and i think the owner of any car should be completely familiar with it. know what everything does, and where everything is, and how it works. but people commonly dont. most people dont even ever check or change anything except oil.

 

A guy reads these type forums and how easy others describe their projects. He drains his oil, adds 5 quarts, then wonders why it won't shift into gear. Towed to dealer where they find no trans fluid and way too much oil.

"A man's got to know his limitations"

 

mine is 4.0 dont know about the 3slow, but would guess its simular. ANy how 4 jack stands, a floor jack, 24 in 3/8 or 1/2 extension, a set of universal swivel sockets, a bottle jack to hold the engine after the trans is out, the clutch line tool ($5 @ parts house), 12 point socket for the drive shaft, a pan to drain the trans fluid into. and normal set of tools to include sockets, wrenches, air tools also nice to have, a manual to follow (do you know how to remove the shifter?)

This pretty much will cover the long extension is so you can reach the top 2 bolts. I also have a set of about 15-18 inch long studs to slide the trans on off from the engine. its easy to bugger the pilot bearing on reinstall.

There are many willing to help just you need to know if you have all the bits and pieces needed?

 

Thanks everyone for the input. Now I just need to find the time and hope my in-laws will let me tie up their garage for a couple of days.

 

Exercise some patience, don't get in a hurry, and plan on a helper when you go to stab the transmission back onto the engine. I've done it myself, but it is THE MOST frustrating task of a clutch change; so a helper who can turn the tailshaft, stick in a bolt when aligned, etc. is always a plus!

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk

 

you did not mention if it was a 2wd or 4wd. for my thoughst i will assume it is a 2wd( you really should have vehicle profiles created but that is a whole nothing discussion). I have been researching the same issue with my truck and deciding if i should do it myself. this is what i learned. I think for a experienced mechanic on a 2wd they allocate about 3 hours, hence I think a labor cost of $300 is more appropriate. I originally was going to use LUK parts, but they are a lot more than I thought. advanced auto sells a product by Perfection for about $160. includes pilot bearing, disc, PP, tools, You would buy the slave separately for $50(yours only has 2000 miles on it.. I also would consider changing the rear main seal for $10 especially on a 93........a few tings i learned by searching.......
- the tranny weights about $90lbs.
-mark the drive shaft before removing
-you need the hydraulic tool and alignment tool( comes with the Perfection set)
-the tranny and engine are connected by 8 bolts removing the top 2 seems to be the most dificult. People have said you can access them through the shift opeing in the cab., however what I seem to figure out is the best way to remove them is by removing the drive-shaft and cross-member bolts(maybe even the cross-member) and dropping the tail end of the tranny down. make sure the cooling fan does not hit the radiator and that you truck is high enough off the ground so the tranny will drop enough. then you can easily get to the 2 bolts. I would buy a haynes manual and read through it. it covers a lot but avoided the details of removing the "8 bolts". should also check out this video it is by the Perfection company it explains the bleeding process. from what i understand if you MC is working fine now and you disconnect it from the slave as long as no one presses the clutch pedal in theory you should be able to hook it up to the new one and gravity bleed without and issue...... new guy needs help with clutch and slave cylinder - Ford Ranger Forum I also had a thought on your existing clutch. I am not sure if it would work. I assume the slave was leaking and got brake fluid on the disc. I wonder if you access the inspection hole and tried to clean it with brake cleaner or maybe even some type of cleaner in a pressurized garden sprayer if it would work.......just a thought....if I do mine first or you do yours we should post some feedback......good luck if you decide to do it....

*I have not decided if i am going to replace/turn the flywheel or just clean it

 

do you put these 2 studs in the 2 holes for the bottom bolts? are there threads on them so you thread them into where the bolts would go. are they long bolts with the heads cut off?

 

Don't overlook this seemingly simple thing. The driveshaft needs to be reinstalled in the original position. Otherwise, it'll be out of balance and you'll get a bad vibration after you put it all back together & drive it. Don't ask how I know.

 

Powersmoked,
You make all good points in your 9:05am post.

I changed the clutch in my '94 (2wd, 4-cyl., 5-spd) a few years back. As I recall, I didn't have any major issues. I didn't replace my slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder or pilot bearing, they are still the OEM units, and have no regrets - as are still working fine. I have heard of guys having problems getting their pilot bearing out, and problems with bleeding their slave cylinder, so since they seemed to still be in good shape, I didn't tempt fate. "However, your mileage may vary".....

On a related note -- I just finished changing the clutch disc/ pressure plate in my '95 Wrangler (4-cyl, 5spd). Because it also had the transfer case hanging on the transmission, I decided to try the "2 guide studs" treat with it. I cut two sections of threaded rod (about 10" long) and threaded them into the outer-most, "middle of the bell" bellhousing-to-block bolt holes. They did help me to get the trans aligned with the pilot bearing. I picked up a transmission lift head (from Northern Tool - http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2755_200332755 ) to put on my floor jack and had a piece of plywood under the Jeep to allow the jack to roll back n' forth. It worked slick. Trying to balance the dang thing on the round floor jack head would NOT have been fun....

BarnieTrk

 

Barnietrk.....thanks for reminding me.........I also read that a good way to remove the pilot bearing is to fill the cavity with grease. Then insert something ie. punch, bolt, tube etc, the size of the opening into the bearing the grease acts like a hydraulic punch and pops out the bearing..... I like that tranny actachemnt for the jack.not sure if it would work on mine!.........this also my being getting a little to Metaphysical for some but being a novice mechanic I run any new first time project through my mind a few times before doing it. sort of the way a great athlete images themselves winning the event .....I am able to catch the potential issue before i actually do the work....ie. the 2 tops bolts of the tranny......

 

My BIL worked for a place that made nuts-bolts, told him what I needed and he made them for me, but a steel rod threaded for the size would work. Makes taking out and putting in a lot easier and it doesnt mess up the pilot bearing, actually makes it 1 peerson affair particularly if lying on the ground with the trans on your chest.

On my 94 the pilot is taken out by taking the flywheel off and then drifting it out, no need to use rease etc, just have to pull the flywheel, and then if lots a miles have it resurfaced while out. As to marking the DS only if taking it apart at the joints would I worry, putting it in the trans makes no difference.

I put extra grease in the pilot and throwout bearings seems to make them last better. I recommend if you are replacing the slave or master, replace all while the trans is out, makes things a lot better, but I did have a new slave go bad after install so nothing is a sure thing.

Yes support the trans, remove the cross member, put a bottle jack under the engine and let everything down a bit. The long extensions with wobble sockets also make it easier than trying to reach up there.

 

For those of us without a machinist BIL...........I wonder if anyone know what size/thread for those 2 bottom bolts are .then we could go buy some and cut off the heads...........Bueller........Bueller...........a nyone?