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i bought my truck with the clutch completely gone...it wouldn't even pull at all. i put a new clutch in it and it has a similar shudder problem...but while under it i noticed that the U-joints have slung grease perfectly under the body....guess that just adds to redneck rust-proofing....i plan on swapping the u-joints sunday so i'll be able tell you if it fixes the problem...
Did you have the flywheel resurfaced? If you are going to install a new clutch ALWAYS resurface the flywheel or replace it. If you get any oil or grease on the clutch when installing it that can be a problem as well. At least in these trucks you can get to the clutch by removing that access pan. I would spray break cleaner in it while someone holds the clutch down if you think that's the problem. I had to do it because oil got all over mine. I should have put that pan on but I didn't think I was going to have oil pouring out of the dipstick tube hole. Oh well Its good now. I would love to know what fixes it.
what access pan are youi talking about....nothing on this one is removeable as far as i can tell...but no i didn't resurface it...it needed it but it wasn't in the budget.... 104 dollars new+ shipping...and to get it resurfaced was 50+ at all of my local shops.
what access pan are youi talking about....nothing on this one is removeable as far as i can tell...but no i didn't resurface it...it needed it but it wasn't in the budget.... 104 dollars new+ shipping...and to get it resurfaced was 50+ at all of my local shops.
At the bottom of the bell housing (between the trans and back of the engine) there is a pan that looks like its going around the flywheel. It has 4 bolts and is easy to get off. If you don't have one I don't think you have a 435 trans. I have 2 bell housings with this access pan. Yours should have it too.
what other 3 speed trans is there...my inspection plate is behind the flywheel as a whole piece like the other 302 i have....no inspection plate on it...cause i wanted to make sure that's what it was before i pulled the tranny...i might just have to make it into an accessible one.
I would strongly suggest that you replace the rear main and more important the front transmission seal. A couple of drops of oil and your new clutch will be shuttering and grabbing just like before.
the vibration your talking about could possibly mean your flywheel is glazed or heat cracked, about what rpm range do you take off at? and do you have alot of stop and goes on steep grades?
what you are talking about is called clutch chatter. i'd bet the farm that it's because you cheaped out and didn't resurface the flywheel. Chatter can happen for different reasons..some super high performance clutches are proned to it...however it's common on clutches that haven't been broken in properly, or a glazed disc/flywheel as mentioned above.
stop everything pull it apart, inspect the disc to make sure you haven't ruined it, then resurface the flywheel. When you get it back, mic it too...I did a clutch on my bro's mustang last month, and the flywheel came back with .10 variance and it vibrated bad.
i'm not the op but if you want my answer the flywheel in mine looked good except for one small scratch probably from when the clutch shattered since it's a perfect circle. my clutch is fine...i took it out for a few miles today and it was running great..i even played some...but most of all it's fine for a beater truck that i just want to enjoy and won't care to work on...just a tinker toy.....i'm pretty sure all my little vibration is from the u-joints...they have a perfectly slung grease trail from where they are bad....my other shudder vibration can't have much to do with the clutch it only does it on the lope of the idle...and i noticed my fan is slightly bent...i'm fixin to check ebay for a nice one.
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