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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:11 PM
  #1  
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Clutch

I recently put a new clutch and fly wheel in and it has started slipping a bit. How much will the stock clutch hold?
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:14 PM
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Depends on what clutch you put in.

Depends on if the clutch is getting oil or fuel on it as well.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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Is that all that was changed?
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:51 PM
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What mods do you have?
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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With your mods you need more than a stock clutch.
 

Last edited by richdawg; May 3, 2012 at 11:29 PM. Reason: correction
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Old May 3, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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Signature <dl class="list_no_decoration profilefield_list"><dd id="signature">6637, 3" DP, 4" straight pipe, 7.3IC, Isspro gauges, bds 6" spring lift, airbags, exhaust brake, Rosewood stage ones, PHP tunes</dd></dl>
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:27 AM
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I didn't think the mods done would push the limits of the clutch.
Thanks for posting my sig richdawg!


To The Moderators:
Is there a way to make sigs show up in the mobile version of the forum
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:09 AM
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What rpm and in what tune is it slipping ?

With those mods you can destroy a stock clutch
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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You could stand to have a 350+ hp clutch on that rig. Youre outside the stock limitations with sticks or tunes alone much less both.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Depends on if the clutch is getting oil or fuel on it as well.[/QUOTE]

I have a question regarding the above quote. Just to clarify my thoughts and experience with oil on break shoe lining, I am assuming that brake lining and clutch lining are made out of same or similar material. The question is are you sure oil on the lining would cause it to slip? Anyone care to comment?
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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I had a 5speed ranger that The rear main started leaking and got oil on the clutch and caused it to start slipping
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:37 PM
  #12  
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A long time ago (about 55 yrs) with my first car I had the right rear wheel bearing go out ruined the seal and leaked gear oil on the shoes, I cleaned the shoes the best I could and replaced the bearing and seal. The first drive after repair caused the break on the rear that had oil on it to grab/lock up actually skid that tire. I had to replace the shoes to fix the problem. That's the experience I had and it made me think oil on the pad caused the problem.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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I don't think oil is getting to the clutch. Everything was resealed in the valley and a rebuilt pedestal was put in with new o rings.

It seems to slip at or before 2000 rpm in + 40 hp and up. I have noticed the hpop doesn't keep up with what issue injectors want so I am waiting for a t500.

Seems like the transmission will be coming out maybe I should get some bellows...
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #14  
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What brand of clutch do you have in it now, and what horsepower is it rated for? If you take the tranny out to replace the clutch and your having issues with the up pipes it would be the time to do the bellows they are quite expensive though. If you have welding skills and fabrication you could DIY and save a lot.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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I believe the clutch is a Velo dmf with a sprung disc. It was the only thing I could find here and I had to have the truck running as I sold my flatdeck the day before. I have some fab skills and I feel comfortable building my own bellowed pipes.

In the past I have done mods to vehicles and never expected to get the power output that was on the label. It was just the nature of the business. So I am a little suprised that the mods I have done are that significant in power improvements. So +140 means 225+140? That means that I am putting 365 out at the flywheel? Or is it +140 at the wheel?

I jokingly tell my wife that I have the ugliest Ferrari on the street!
 
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