SCA? CDR?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
actually that would be dependent on your location..... i have 5 john deere dealers within a 75 mile radius and one down the road in my hometown..... if you live anywhere in the midwest or anywhere there is any kind of agricultural business there is bound to be john deere somewhere nearby
Hey bro, how much is that stuff? I have several john deere locations around here!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
wow thats not too bad, it looks pretty good from what i read online and the tests/trials are interesting. Something like that with a good coolant filter would be the sweet spot. Either way someone goes though, green, red, hot pink, i dont think it matters as long as it protects from cavitation and wont "eat seals." haha. I have standard green from ford and dont have any issues with it but i would like something more user friendly and easier to maintain.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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OK. I just need to buy the right coolant. There are 4 John Deer dealers not too far away.
On to the CDR thing. I am still pushing oil out of the new VC gaskets. I will re-torque, but something is not quite right. If the CDR does not open, then the crankcase is not vented right? Can I just vent it to atmosphere like I do my gasser?
On to the CDR thing. I am still pushing oil out of the new VC gaskets. I will re-torque, but something is not quite right. If the CDR does not open, then the crankcase is not vented right? Can I just vent it to atmosphere like I do my gasser?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
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From: Higginsville, MO
haha see that's awesome..... i trust john deere equipment and parts/fluids i would run them in anything..... where are you from if you don't mind me askin? im around Kansas City, MO
now you do need to test that coolant same as any other just to be on the safe side...... but it is designed to last and operate at temps higher and lower than these engines should ever reach and the test strips for it are dirt cheap and so is the additive should you eventually need some..... the way i see it is there are a million different brands and types of coolant and a million different kinds of additive that go in them.... if i buy everything related to my coolant from one spot with one trusted brand then i really have nothing to worry about...... our system takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 gallons so 4 antifreeze and 4 water or 5 antifreeze and 3 water if you live up north.... i run mine at a 60/40 coolant to water just to be on the safe side. and like i said i carry a gallon of the concentrate in my toolbox along with the other fluids just in case but i don't usually take the truck out of the area and if i do i will be making sure she's in top shape before i do..... when you change the antifreeze you'll need to do a complete flush. on my 94 the block drain is just above the starter on the block by where the stock block heater is there's just a bolt sticking out you take out and the old antifreeze will come rushing out.... then put the garden hose in the radiator fill and turn it on once with the radiator drain out and once with the radiator plug in to flush the block out then ur good to go fill er back up run it with cap off for 10 min heater on full blast should push bubbles out then top it off make sure to drain the overflow of the old crap too and put the good in i checked mine several times on the days after just to make sure
far as the cdr thing goes i don't know much about it but i know if you take the air cleaner completely off you can kinda see a mist being sucked back into the engine there is a hole down on the intake pipe that the CDR hooks into i don't think it's a very good idea to remove it but i don't know much about it im sure someone who does will help ya out on that
now you do need to test that coolant same as any other just to be on the safe side...... but it is designed to last and operate at temps higher and lower than these engines should ever reach and the test strips for it are dirt cheap and so is the additive should you eventually need some..... the way i see it is there are a million different brands and types of coolant and a million different kinds of additive that go in them.... if i buy everything related to my coolant from one spot with one trusted brand then i really have nothing to worry about...... our system takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 gallons so 4 antifreeze and 4 water or 5 antifreeze and 3 water if you live up north.... i run mine at a 60/40 coolant to water just to be on the safe side. and like i said i carry a gallon of the concentrate in my toolbox along with the other fluids just in case but i don't usually take the truck out of the area and if i do i will be making sure she's in top shape before i do..... when you change the antifreeze you'll need to do a complete flush. on my 94 the block drain is just above the starter on the block by where the stock block heater is there's just a bolt sticking out you take out and the old antifreeze will come rushing out.... then put the garden hose in the radiator fill and turn it on once with the radiator drain out and once with the radiator plug in to flush the block out then ur good to go fill er back up run it with cap off for 10 min heater on full blast should push bubbles out then top it off make sure to drain the overflow of the old crap too and put the good in i checked mine several times on the days after just to make sure
far as the cdr thing goes i don't know much about it but i know if you take the air cleaner completely off you can kinda see a mist being sucked back into the engine there is a hole down on the intake pipe that the CDR hooks into i don't think it's a very good idea to remove it but i don't know much about it im sure someone who does will help ya out on that
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