NO START CONDITION.
#1
NO START CONDITION.
2005 F350 6.0L No performance mods other than ARP Head Studs. Several instances of no start but after retrying started up. Finally while at my vacation house 200 miles away, NO START ...diesel mechanic friend of mine has a place there also, he came down and looked at it. He said it was probably HPOP, but it doesn't start cold then it will start HOT, isn't the HPOP a more noticable problem when it is HOT? We tried for a while and got it started, I tried starting it on and off all that day and it started fine. Sunday morning when I went to go home NO START again. We shot a smidgen of ether in and it fired up with Normal Oil Pressure , drove it 200 miles home no problems except a code. I checked the Codes, the one was P2285 Low ICP pressure and the other was P2614 CMP Sensor open. The ICP code I assumed was from unplugging to try and start it, because it was there twice, and we unplugged to try to start twice.The Fuel Filters only have maybe 500 miles as well as the Oil ( ROTELLA T 15W40 ) and Oil Filter( MOTORCRAFT ).Under a long crank my Oil pressure Gauge does not go up at all but I have Oil pressure at the ICP port as noted below, and I checked the Oil Filter Drainback Valve and it seems to be working fine, and the filter body fills up within a couple seconds of cranking. I replaced the CMP Sensor NO START. I checked FUEL PRESSURE mechanically it is 51 lbs. I put a Mechanical Gauge in the ICP port and at starter cranking speed was OVER 2000 PSI. So I am pretty sure the HPOP is not a problem with that much pressure at a starter cranking speed. Also checked the FICM voltage it is 48 volts.
All of this and still NO ATTEMPT TO START NOT EVEN A FOR A SECOND
So my question is what next?
CKP Sensor??
IPR Valve??
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I could really use the Crew Cab Diesel instead of my Super Cab V10.
Thanks in Advance, Jim
All of this and still NO ATTEMPT TO START NOT EVEN A FOR A SECOND
So my question is what next?
CKP Sensor??
IPR Valve??
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I could really use the Crew Cab Diesel instead of my Super Cab V10.
Thanks in Advance, Jim
Last edited by henryjb3363; 09-20-2010 at 05:31 PM. Reason: to add something
#2
Welcome to FTE henryjb
Looks like you've already checked a lot of these, but here's some other things you can look at
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
Looks like you've already checked a lot of these, but here's some other things you can look at
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
#5
#7
If the F2-22 fuse is blown or the circuit is suspect:
Unplug the fuel heater.
Should be the plug in the back of the VFCM
Tape the contact shut (to protect it against rust).
Replace F2-22 with a brand new one --- even if the original test OK.
See if that fixes your problem.
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The PCM shares power with the fuel heater.
If the fuel heater is turned on, and there is a short, it can either,
a) fry the fuse
b) drop the voltage enough to make the PCM not work.
Another possibility --- a salt bridge at the contact point of the heater that is a sub-critical short (enough to drop voltage, but not enough to blow fuse).
CLEAN the contact / connector thoroughly, remove dirt, conductive dust, debris, and plug it back in.
You don't need a fuel heater until you get to -20F
Take my word for it...
The giveaway that it is a fuse problem / circuit power problem is Cheezit correctly stated it is circuit F2-22.
If you do a voltage test, you will find that when the fuel heater turns on, invariably, the engine is cold.
The heater is about 100 watt or so.... not negligible a load on that circuit.
Unplug the fuel heater.
Should be the plug in the back of the VFCM
Tape the contact shut (to protect it against rust).
Replace F2-22 with a brand new one --- even if the original test OK.
See if that fixes your problem.
---------------------
The PCM shares power with the fuel heater.
If the fuel heater is turned on, and there is a short, it can either,
a) fry the fuse
b) drop the voltage enough to make the PCM not work.
Another possibility --- a salt bridge at the contact point of the heater that is a sub-critical short (enough to drop voltage, but not enough to blow fuse).
CLEAN the contact / connector thoroughly, remove dirt, conductive dust, debris, and plug it back in.
You don't need a fuel heater until you get to -20F
Take my word for it...
The giveaway that it is a fuse problem / circuit power problem is Cheezit correctly stated it is circuit F2-22.
If you do a voltage test, you will find that when the fuel heater turns on, invariably, the engine is cold.
The heater is about 100 watt or so.... not negligible a load on that circuit.
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#8
#11
Is 2000 + PSI mechanical pressure at starter cranking speed too high at the ICP port? Or was it that way because the ICP sensor could not tell the IPR Valve to reduce the pressure upon cranking?
Does the ICP Sensor (senses HPOP pressure )and the IPR Valve ( relief of HPOP pressure )work in tandem to tell the FICM how long to leave the injectors open, and to what pressure should be at the injector?
What I'm wondering if the IPR Valve is stuck and the computer will not let it try to start becaue of the Very High Pressure at the ICP Sensor at cranking speed, or does that not matter?
Thanks, Jim
Does the ICP Sensor (senses HPOP pressure )and the IPR Valve ( relief of HPOP pressure )work in tandem to tell the FICM how long to leave the injectors open, and to what pressure should be at the injector?
What I'm wondering if the IPR Valve is stuck and the computer will not let it try to start becaue of the Very High Pressure at the ICP Sensor at cranking speed, or does that not matter?
Thanks, Jim
#14
Update:
This only applies if you have a cold start problem in moderate cold weather, but apparently no problem in real cold (-10 or more) weather.
Another hypothesis I have is the fuel heater used in warm weather is causing a vapor lock in the fuel lines.
If that is the case, the low pressure pump will not pump.
Repeated KOEO will clear the issue as at a certain point, the sensor detects that the fuel is "hot" so it does not turn on.
In any case, disconnecting the heater causes no harm.
This only applies if you have a cold start problem in moderate cold weather, but apparently no problem in real cold (-10 or more) weather.
Another hypothesis I have is the fuel heater used in warm weather is causing a vapor lock in the fuel lines.
If that is the case, the low pressure pump will not pump.
Repeated KOEO will clear the issue as at a certain point, the sensor detects that the fuel is "hot" so it does not turn on.
In any case, disconnecting the heater causes no harm.
#15
The next step is to run a KOEO Injector Buzz test. Do you hear CLICKS from all eight injectors when the test is run? Any DTCs set? Next, monitor SYNC and FICM SYNC PIDs. Do both switch from NO to YES when you crank the engine over? Monitor engine RPM while cranking the engine. What is the engine cranking speed indicated?