OK I've got these figures from the AutoEnginuity Scanner I just Purchased.
Man this is quite the scanner.I cannot wait till I figure out all the goodies this
thing has to offer!!!!!!

Cranking Figures Noted

FICM_L 11.5
FICM_M 47.5
FICM_V 11.5
ICP Pressure 1524.50 psi
IPR Regulator 50.78 %
RPM 158
Fuel Pressure on Mech Gauge 52 lbs

Problem I see is there is NO switching from NO to YES on these.....

FICM_SYNC
CMP --- CKP SYNC
FUEL PULSE WIDTH

Is there someone that can tell me WHY these are not switching?
And WHAT to replace to see if that is it?

Thanks In Advance......Jim

 

so sync and ficm sync stay "no" for the value?
you are more then likly missing an input from either the cmp or ckp.
do you by chance have a 2 channel lab scope?

 

Based on your engine RPM while cranking, I doubt you have any issues with the CKP sensor or its associated circuitry. Fuel pulse width will not be commanded if SYNC and FICM SYNC don't switch to yes. Based on the readings above, either the CMP sensor has backed out far enough to lose its signal do to rust build up on the engine block or the sensor is faulty (less likely). You can start by removing the CMP and cleaning all rust off the mounting flange surface and re-installing. If this fails to fix it, you can try taking some ohm readings through the sensors directly, or at the main PCM harness connector itself. You should be seeing between 300 to 400 ohms for the CKP circuit (likely good based on your engine RPM reading), and between 800 to 1100 ohms for the CMP sensor. If either of those circuits are high in resistance, the engine harness itself will need to be replaced.

 

.....or you can set your DVOM to read in Hz. You would need to probe the CKP circuitry through the middle PCM connector. You should see between 150 to 200 Hz on the CKP circuit with the engine cranking, which is directly proportional to engine cranking RPM. Probing the CMP circuit should net you readings between 1.1 to 1.9 Hz while the engine is cranking.

 

Ive chased my tail doing it this way before. LMAO. it will tell you if the wiring is good though.

 

Well before I bought the scanner I was throwing parts at it,
and I have bought new and replaced both the CMP and the CKP.
So I guess I will check the wiring specifically for the cam sensor
since I am seeing a tach response on the scanner and dash.

Will keep you posted

Special thanks to cheezit and m-chan68 for the quick responses.

Thanks, Jim

 

UPDATE

Got home from work today and tore into the wiring harness leading to
the CMP Sensor. After pulling it up through I removed the tape that was
on the conduit, and noticed 2 crimp-on splices!!

( Why some people feel the need to use CRIMP on wiring splices just URKS me to death, I will NEVER EVER use a crimp on connector on ANYTHING related to a vehicle)

Anyways, so I had a clue that someone was in the harness before, so I pulled
the PCM harness from the PCM to check for continuity and got a small piece of mechanics wire to probe into the PCM plug and the CMP plug ( because the probe was to big for the hole ) and the wire literally fell into the two holes on the PCM plug side coming from the CMP Senosr, so I stuck the wire into another hole from another wire and it was snug, I checked a couple others and they were also snug. So it seems that the someone that was working on it before stuck something to BIG into the hole and ruined the connector. Guess I have just been lucky for the last year with it getting a good connection.

So I ordered a new PCM harness from the Local Dealer today 3 days away and $ 410.00 some odd dollars. Because I refuse to use a harness that has been butt spliced and ruined by some crackpot mechanic.

Hopefully this will fix my problem......if NOT well I need a new harness anyway.

Will post back when I get it installed to see if it was my problem (fingers crossed)

 

I thnk your headed in the right direction.

 

I will mention it now, if I didn't mention it already in an earlier post. You CANNOT repair or overlay the CMP and CKP circuits on a 6.0L because they are ground shielded. I can't even count how many 6.0L E-Series harnesses I've replaced by now since they are packed in there so tight. But at least I know that the success rate for repair has always been 100% for me whenever I've gotten any of these in for ongoing stalling or funky electrical gremlins.

 

UPDATE

Got the new harness installed today finally.... Man the IPR Sensor Plug and the
CKP Sensor Plug are quite the experience trying to get to on this 05 6.0. But with a
little bending and fabricating of a 3/16" steel dowel and a piece of square tubing
cut apart to make a holder for the plug I finally got the IPR one on without removing
the Turbo.

Anyhow she fired right up on the first try.

NEW problem...... The Speedometer does NOT work, and the ABS light is on on
the Dash. Is the ABS light on because I had the harness removed from the Valve?
And will it go away on its own or is there another problem?

Cheezit or M-Chan68 any ideas as to why the speedometer quit working??

Thanks again for pointing me to the CMP wiring it was definitely the problem.

 

well if I recall correctly the speedo goes threw the abs module. check the connections at the abs controller and the ones for the pcm as well as the one on the left fender.

 

I found the problem with ABS light and Speedometer, some DUMB@$$ (me)
put a fuse back in the holder under the hood on the wrong side of the prongs.
While I was checking for my NO START CONDITION.

All is good now, gunna drive it tomorrow.

Thanks Again. Jim