Funny!
I good friend let me borrow his tundra for now, what a blessing! Im really starting to think the trans is shot,between the shutter in first and TC lockup in second im not sure what happened though?

EDIT;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...n-lock-up.html

I found this and it make me wounder in the added switch curcuit finished off my TC. I also cut the the TCC (p/y) wire and in troubleshooting and it changed nothing. I woulf be willing to put a TC in if I new thats what it was.

 

I would disable the TC lock up solenoid and see if it still does it.
I'm betting that the AODE shifts using solenoids to operate the bands. I'm willing to bet that it isnt TC trouble but that the trans is in 2 gears at the same time. I cannot think of a reason that the computer would enable the TC lock solenoid in second and even if it did I doubt you would notice it while driving as I have accidentally left mine locked while changing gears and it's just a firm shift. It will stall the engine at idle stopped but it sounds like your problem is deeper than this as you notice it while driving.

With the TC lock solenoid disabled if the trans is still doing it then I would drop the pan and look to see if the computer uses solenoids to shift her. If i had one out back I'd rip it apart and look but I dont. However I have a friend that might know and I'll ask him tomorrow.

 

As long as the pin out I post earlier (showing P/Y wire for TCC solenoid fuction) is correct then I have disabled the TCC solenoid and the problem still there. When I pulled the cover there is a solenoid board in there but its beyond me what im looking at. I want to know what it is but also want to know what caused it. Was it the fluid change or the wiring change?????

Found this, confirms the wiring and show solenoids (mine is a after 92, assuming the Pu/Y is correct not Br/Or) Also cross referances the E4OD wiring.

http://www.baumannengineering.com/tcswrg.htm

Another thought to check when I get home.....

I noticed shift solenoid #2 is Pu/Or, IF for some reason I cut this wire instead of the Pu/Y (mistake of coarse) would it cause these type symtoms? I would assume they act the same (TCC and #2 solenoid). I also still wonder if haveing the 11.4 volts after the resistor hurt the PCM in some way? I have never delt with a resistor so I dont understand how the work.

 

The resistor is there to simulate a voltage drop that is normally seen across the coil of the TCC solenoid inside the transmision. I have no idea how the 22k-ohm value was derived, I found it on a write-up for a 4R100 transmission and took a chance and tested it with an E4OD and it worked good. I do seem to recall the voltage measured at the P/Y wire with the trans in neutral or part to be around 11V, which I guess would make for roughly 2V drop across the TCC solenoid - again, I dunno the exact values the PCM expects to see, I just know what resistor works to achieve those values.

The shift solenoids - the E4OD has SS1 engaged in P, R, N, and while the transmission is in 1st and 2nd gear, basically it only releases in 3rd and 4th gear, which is why I designed those circuits to use that to control the safety relay. SS2 is engaged in 1st and 3rd gear only, if you cut that instead of the TCC wire you'll end up manually controlling SS2 instead of the TCC - meaning with no safety relay in place you could prevent 2nd and 4th gear engagement entirely if you left the "converter" switch on. On the other hand if you did put the relay like the article suggests, then while the PCM commands 1st or 2nd gear the switch will have no effect regardless of what wire or solenoid you're controlling with it, and once in 3rd gear when the relay drops out you'll only be accomplishing 4th gear cancel with the switch... does that make any sense?

 

Makes sense. I really dont think the wiring is what caused the problem, I guess it was the fluid change. Are these things really that touchy??? Im really wondering if I should try replacing the TC or just call it quits on the auto tranny.

 

Roger Pipe is correct about the LubeGuard products. I looked for the Dr. Tranny stuff and NAPA didn't have it so I used the LubeGuard in the green label bottle 10oz instead of 2oz. Works great transmission only shuttered one time then it was smooth as silk. (previous owner thought the truck required dexron fluid, that caused the shutter. theLubeGuard I used is to use Dexron and other cheaper fluids in place of Mercon fluid that is more expensive.) I'll go for a $12 fix anytime!!!

 

Hey guys. I have been having issues with my truck since about 3weeks after doing a fluid and filter change (quakerstate atv says merceon on the bottle) on my 95 f150 5.8l e4od. I installed a b&m stage 2 shift kit at the same time.

I didn't like the way the stage 2 kit was so I swapped for the stage 1 springs and it felt the same. So I figured I'd live with it.
Untill a week ago when parked if I shifted into reverse the rpms would drop and it would stall.
I checke my fluid and the level seemed just above the full mark and I checked for codes and nothing.
I removed the plug on the iac valve and it did the same thing spin know its working. I removed and cleaned it as well.

Well now it stalls when shifted into reverse and when stopping at a stop sign or red light. It even did it shifting from reverse to drive...
i picked up a can of the seafoam transmission fix since the normal seafoam got good reviews figured it was worth a try well anyways i checked the fluid level again and found that it seems to be about a liter over full. so i sucked a liter and a bit out the dipstick to bring it down to the fill line and added the seafoam and topped it to the correct level. well still no improvement.

Could this be an issue of the TC locking up? would this mod help?

 

Sounds to me like the TCC is locked all the time. My truck does the same thing when my kids lock the TCC when i'm not looking. LOL Question is is it the computer the wiring or the solenoid?

 

I'm going to try cuting the line and the resistor to see if it helps

 

While sitting in the parkinglot for the place to open to get the resistor (forgot about the damn time change) if I put the truck in drive it stalls. If I put it in drive and hold the gas a little to keep it running it will stay running.
In gear with the brake on if I slowly give it gas as of I was going to do a burnout (keep in mind I don't give it enough to break the tires free here) when the rpms hit around 1000 there is a "thump" feeling as if it changed gears or maybe the tc locked or unlocked or something give it more gas the rpm climbs to around 2000rmp before the tires chirp and I let off again. On the way back down the same "thump is there around 1000 rpm again.... To me it kindof feels like its shifting gears but I'm not moving....

 

Midnight kinda sounds like it could be a broken engine or tranny mount...On the other hand the LubeGuard fixed my problem for a day, now the shutter is back and its doing it with a hesitation shifting into overdrive. Gonna save my pennies and change all the fluid to merc 5 and new filter. Trying to get through winter, hope it makes it, if so I'll have it rebuilt with a new converter.

 

Just want to mention that the trans. cooler also helps warm the tranny in very cold weather.

 

Yeah, mine has an aftermarket cooler on it, I wondered if it might be making the tranny run too cold or not cold enough. Seems like its worse on colder days. My luck its probably junk gonna hit the dirt soon, I'll run it til it quits I guess.