This week my E4OD has started to shutter so I changed the filter and fluid and all looked well there and the symptom was still there so I took it to my local trans guy and he said it's coming from the torque converter when it locks up. What do I do? He has a no shutter fluid I can add, or he said a shift kit or chip might cure it. He's not sure whether its a pump issue or converter issue but guesses it a converter issue. Has anyone here used the bull dog or trans command? Do you need to drop the pan to install one? What are my options. RB

 

You may want to try this product before you invest in a trans rebuild.

Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx

I have corrected a number of TC problems with it and it offers immediate results. It is available at most auto parts stores.

 

second that. the shudder is converter lock up and barring ripping into the valve body for more pressure or a converter rebuild, that stuff really did work for me

(what it does is lubricates the lockup material so it slips evenly rather in fits (which is why it shudders)

 

I have never used the bandaids to fix any tranny issue so can't say whether they work or what the long term effects are.

My guess is they work at least temporarilly, but I would think if the clutch in the converter was made to slip more smoothly, that the long term effect would be to make the clutch slip more over time and generate more heat which is bad for trannies.

From what I have read and my experience, the only sure long term fix for torque shudder is a new converter and possibly a rebuild. Sometimes a fluid change will do it.

I had a rebuild on my E4OD years back due to torque shudder. When they pulled the tranny there was definite sign of overheating due to the slipping converter clutch.

If the additive works for you and you don't intend to keep the truck forever, it is probably fine.

Just my thoughts,

Jim Henderson

 

I'm going to try the shutter lube, but what I would love to do is disable the TC lockup feature altogether. In the morning when the truck is cold the lock up feature is disabled until the tranny reaches temperature which is about 4 miles. At 55 mph the engine is at about 1800 RPM. At this RPM the engine has no trouble going up hill. Then when it reaches temperature it locks the converter and drops the RPM to 1500. Then the slightest ant hill drops it down in drive. They were not smart enough to program it to unlock the converter first and then secondly down shift like Chevy does. But from what I understand if you unplug the solenoid that locks the tc the computer goes nuts and boosts the line pressure making it shift hard. Is there anyway to trick it into thinking it's always cold? RB

 

In my old 94, I developed a shudder that lasted for weeks. I was planning on trying a remedy, then one day I was stuck in traffic. The tranny overheated and spewed fluid past the front seal(which most know to be a common problem). It dumped about a quart out...in the front drive of the local police station
I topped it up and I never had the shudder again......Go figure.
Though the truck had the 628 code(excessive TQ slippage), so I know that the TQ was bad, but figured I would wait till it failed since I had a spare and the tranny worked great except for having to use two external coolers
....Yes, I've learned the error of my ways.

 

Hey Chad, I got your PM - I'm posting the info you wanted here tho so maybe someone else can use it as well later on. On my truck the wire in the transmission harness that carries the converter lockup signal is a yellow/purple wire (IIRC purple is the main color, yellow is the tracer, but I'll double-check tomorrow in the daylight), the PCM uses it to ground the TCC solenoid's coil and thus complete its circuit and engage converter lockup. The simple and easy way to disable lockup is to simply cut that wire - however in many cases the PCM will not like that, some PCMs apparently monitor voltage at that wire and when they don't see it drop as per their command the go nuts and enter limp mode. The trick around that is to feed the PCM a dummy signal - what I did on my truck was when I cut the wire from the TCC in half I fed the end that comes from the PCM back into the cab and added a 20k or 22k resistor to it inline and then hooked it to a 12V key-on power in my fuse panel - basically the resistor is my TCC solenoid emulator, when the PCM decides to engage converter lockup it grounds the wire and current passes from my key-on source through the resistor and into the PCM, the PCM sees a voltage drop that is within its pre-programmed parameters and thinks all is good with the converter, while in fact it has no connection with the converter solenoid whatsoever no more. Then for me to manually engage and disengage the converter as I pleas I simply extended the end of the wire I cut that comes from the solenoid pack, ran that into the cab, through a nice on/off toggle switch, and then to a good ground (steering column support).

Is that good enough for your purpose, or you'd like more info? I got wiring diagrams for that setup that include LEDs for driver's visual aid, and also of you want a 3-position lock-off-auto setup as well...

 

No need to look at your wire harness as I have already confirmed that the wire is P/Y and is test pin 53 in the transmission Vehicle harness connector. I would have already cut it but a tranny guy friend of mine warned me about the PCM flipping out. I have never used a resistor before i take it that you can buy them at Radio shack? Thanks for your prompt reply. RB

 

1 more thing. Will the tranny run hot enough to need another cooler. I just have the stock radiator and manifold style auxiliary.

 

Yes, I bought an assorted pack of resistors at RadioShack for only a few bucks. They are all color-coded tho, they have no numbers on them but rather they have several bands in different color, it will tell you on the back of the package how to decode them tho, and you can look it up online as well.

As for the trans temperature, yah, she'll tend to run hotter - the converter will have about 400-500 rpms slip in it under load, and about 150-200 rpms while just cruising along. I use my A/C condenser as a trans cooler, plumbed after the factory heat exchanger in the radiator. In your case since you'll be running unlocked all the time, I suggest you install another cooler in there somewhere...

 

Thanks I'll post my results here when I'm done. Where did you mount your switch?

 

I put it on the shifter - I pulled the shifter stalk off the column, fabbed up a small bracket and welded it to it near the plastic handle, then installed the converter switch there, so it sits on the underside of the shifter lever and I can operate it with my thumb and my index finger when I put my hand on the shifter. I also moved my OD cancel button from the dash (I have a bricknose trucks) to the same location as the converter switch, only on the top side of the shifter lever, so I can again reach it easily with my thumb (had to extend the wiring on that by like 2ft tho). You have your OD cancel switch in the shifter handle already, so welding to the shifter may not be a very good idea, unless you find a way to pull the wiring out of it first, or weld in very small increments and fairly low amperage...

 

I've used LubeGard in all my vehicles for years and have never developed a problem. It IS good stuff and cheap insurance if not anything else. YMMV, though.
Roger

 

Well I unplugged the harness right by the power distribution box, cut the purple/yellow wire wired a resistor between it and the power box and it works like a champ. I think I'll pick up a switch and wire the TCC to the switch because when I'm towing in drive the TCC will be nice to have or when I need engine braking. I'll pick up a bottle of the chatter stuff before I do that tho. I love the way it drives now, so much better. RB

 

Awesome, glad I could help