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Shutter when accelerating

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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #1  
d4nnyb0y02's Avatar
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Shutter when accelerating

I drive a 2002, Ford Escape, XLT 4x4.

What is happening, so far only happens when I'm accelerating in a lower gear, like 1 or 2. I get a bit of a shutter... but I can usually prevent the shutter from happening if I accelerate real slowly/carefully. I don't normally throw it pedal to the metal, but I would say I'm just an average accelerator. If I take it slow, and crawl off the line from a stop... and ease into the acceleration, I can keep it from doing the momentary shutter. But, if I don't do this... and I just accelerate as normal, I can pretty much guarantee I'm going to get a shutter (like going over rumble bars). It just does it shortly, and then goes away.

What do you think would be causing this?

A couple things to note...

-I checked the trans fluid, and I was low. I added about .5 qt at a time (after driving, engine hot, in park), and I finally got to the top of the fill line after almost 1.5 quarts. So, it was low on transmission fluid, but no longer is... and is still doing it.

-About a month before the shutter, we noticed a loud CREEK noise (like metal on metal... a really old spring or hinge noise), coming from the front right tire, whenever we would go over a fairly large bump or dip... such as when entering or leaving a parking lot that has a steep entrance that meets the road at a sharp angle, and it would *especially* do it if turning while doing so, and the noise is definitely coming from the front right tire area. Also, it has new front wheel bearings.

I don't know if the creek by the tire has anything to do w/ the shutter or not. I was reading these forums and on a previous post, one person said they had a shutter when driving, and after lots of troubleshooting... it ended up just being a CV joint. Not sure if that's what I have, or if it's something more along the lines of a transmission. What do you think?

Thanks a lot!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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One way to check the CV joints is to turn the wheels one way while stopped and then accelerate. It's best to do this in a empty parking lot. If the CV is bad then you'll hear a loud clunking.

Another thing to check would be to make sure the lug nuts are tight. I had a weird shutter happening when the lug nuts weren't tighten properly.

Brian
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Okay, I had the check engine light scanned at AutoZone (sorry, failed to mention I was getting a check engine line...).

Got a code read back about something with the torque converter... awesome.

Do you think it's worth it, if the torque converter is bad... to just replace the that, or to do the entire transmission?

**Also, will driving it till it drops hurt anything else, or should I get it fixed ASAP? Like, can I drive it until I need a tow... who knows how long it will last... or could this just end up hurting other things in there, and I should just get it fixed ASAP? I have no problem just being stranded on the road one day, needing a tow... if it means I can drive this thing till it drops, and get some more miles out of it (so long as it doesn't hurt other components by doing so).

Thanks...

-Dan
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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Try to find out what code was pulled. The transmission codes go away after the car is turned off as it doesn't have a memory. If the torque converter lockup solenoid is bad or sticking, you could be having intermittent apply of the lockup clutch. That will not do anything any good, and could cost you more money if left alone... and it could be the cause of the shudder.
If it were me, I'd find out what the code meant, and what it would take to fix it. Then decide if it were better to repair now, or wait.
tom
 
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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I'm getting it looked into by my mechanic. We'll see what he thinks . Thanks for the info. If he thinks it needs a new/rebuilt transmission anyways... I can't really hurt anything just driving till it drops (the tranny that is) can I? It's only slipping between 1-2... and I can prevent it from doing it by driving easy. Who knows... maybe I'll get a couple more years out of it before having to replace...

We'll see . Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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My O/D light is now flashing on the dash sometimes.

Haven't had a chance to get it in yet. Been taking it easy and waiting till my mechanic gets an opening soon.

Any other ideas what it could be? Is there a sensor, or something cheap or easy I don't want to miss... before just throwing a tranny at it?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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As clearly as I can state it:

Get thee to a transmission repair facility while the OD light is flashing. A good shop can pull the code that is causing the flashing and tell you in a minute, or less, what is going on.
The people on this site, and the people that just post, such as me, cannot tell you what the code is. You risk further damage, really, by continuing to ignore the warning light flashing. Why do you think they installed the light? AND made it flash?
It's your vehicle. Do as you see right.
tom
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by d4nnyb0y02
Haven't had a chance to get it in yet. Been taking it easy and waiting till my mechanic gets an opening soon.



Thanks
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 10:10 AM
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Curious if you found a resolution to the issue.
03 Escape tranny issue also. Sitting in driving undrivable.
Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #10  
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Yes, and I sold it. Transmission was needing replaced, and the transfer case too. Sold it to a transmission repair shop after getting multiple confirmed opinions, and cut my losses.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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I'm thinking of doing the same.
How much of a loss did you take? Just curious.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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I'm thinking of doing the same.
How much of a loss did you take? Just curious.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 07:16 AM
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My 05 was doing the same thing. Every time I started out and every time that it shifted it would shutter. It had 132,500 miles on it and other than the transmission/torque converter issue, it was in very good condition. The key word here is MY. I own it, no payment book. I have a 98 2wd Ranger pick up and a 2010 Chevy Aveo as daily drivers. The way I did the math, I would take a real beating if I sold it, and then all I would have is a little bit of money in my pocket and no AWD spare vehicle (I live in northern Maine). Instead of selling my Escape, I put some money in it. I got a rebuilt transmission with a new torque converter installed for $2,500.00. It now has a 3 year, unlimited mileage, parts and labor warranty. The best part about it is that I still have my AWD for those bad winter days.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 07:58 AM
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These escapes have junk transmissions.. our 01' we use to have, shuddered bad until I had the trans flushed. Then it came back about 10k later. We bought our 06 we have now new and I do a dump and fill every other oil change and have had zero problems. You have to maintain the trans fluid like engine oil.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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Dan Robertson
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From: Northern Maine
The owners manual said to service the transmission every 30,000 miles. It had 43,000 on it when I got it and I had it flushed out every 30,000 religiously and it still crapped out at 132,500 miles. (I agree that the transmissions leave a lot to be desired) I was told that an updated torque converter was used with the new transmission. I am also considering installing a spin on filter in one of the cooling lines and I will be doing the dump and fill method, probably every 10,000 miles with my new transmission.
 
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