Hey guys,
Unfortunately, a common problem with Aerostars is the rust that forms throughout the rocker panels. There are ways to slow the rusting process, but where I live (Chicago) the salt eats everything no matter what you do. Usually, by the time you notice the rocker panels need replacing, there is no metal left and they look something like this >>> http://www.bcbroncos.com/rust%20rocker.jpg

After some trial and error over the last few years, I have found what I feel is the cheapest solution to stop the rust, and fix your rocker panels so they do not have to look rusted and ugly.

All you need for the project is a roll of roof flashing, a small tube of roof cement, 2 cans of Great Stuff expanding foam, and some stainless steel sheet metal screws. ( I got the all the materials and screws at Lowes. Screws are Hillman 14 x 3/4 Pan Head Phillips and come in a pack of 5)

Essentially, all I did was wrap the flashing around the rusted rocker panel and screw it in. The screws are fat and will hold tight even to rusted metal. Then to give the panel some stiffness, I inject a can into the flashing and as it expands it fills the empty space. Then once it hardens it is actually very stiff. The expanding foam serves two purposes, 1st it adds some strength to the panel, 2nd is it completely blocks out any water that would eventually rust out the metal. This foam is really great, it will hold up to any elements and will last a long time.

The roofing cement is used to seal the seams, you can see in the sliding door photo it's a bit sloppy, but when I did the drivers side a year later I made it look cleaner. The cement gets hard and is very tough stuff. I went through last winter without painting below the sliding door and it didn't crack, chip or peel off.

Finally, I painted it. I went to the local Sherwin-Williams Auto Paint store where I gave them my color code, KB, and they mixed a perfect match and put it in a 16oz rattle can for $25. The primer, paint, and clear coat was the biggest cost. After the project was complete, I was pleased with the results and wanted to share them with you guys.

I'm posting a poll where you can give me your honest opinion anonymously. I would also like to hear what anyone else has done if they had the same rust problem and didn't want to have a body shop weld new ones on.

Here are the photo's...

Imageshack - driversideoutside.jpg

Imageshack - driverdooropen.jpg

Imageshack - slidingdoor.jpg

 

Looks fine to me.

The expanding foam would be great if it did indeed hold its condition for extended durations. I've seen too many examples of that stuff crack and shrink, which then allows water to get in, but leaving you with no way to get the water out again. In fact, original equipment sealants do that, and trap moisture between them and the bare metal, promoting rust.

I really hope your fix works for you long term.

 

Looks good to me! I realize that this is not intended to compete with "new", but is sure beats the totally rotted out look that is so common. I do wonder what condition the hydraulic brake lines are in with that much rust in the area? My 94 Extended lenght came from Fla about eight years ago, but I noticed that there is now some trouble under the drivers door. I will keep your idea in mind. I wonder is stainless steel sheets might work too? Just thinking out loud.

 

Red Green would be proud! No, seriously, it looks great for a quick fix.

I wonder though how long it will last - I'd be worried about if the screws gave way when the metal they were screwed to gives out, even with the foam being there. But, way better than my fix, which is to look at the panel longingly and say "gee, I should do something about that before it becomes an even bigger job"!

I understand that my panel rusted out about 11 years ago, and the previous owner replaced it with fresh metal. It's only starting to rust a bit right now...she said they added some metal to re-route the water from being trapped (which causes our problems in the first place).

 

Thanks for the feedback guys, like I said before, I did trial and error in years past.

I first used painted rolled aluminum, bondo to seal the seams. Unfortunately, the bondo cracked, letting the water start to rust the seams and then it would fall apart and the whole piece need replacing.

When I replaced again with the painted rolled aluminum, I added the foam to reduce the flexing so the bondo wouldn't crack, I didn't even think of what a great waterproofing agent it is. But, again, the bondo cracked and caused aluminum to rust again. While I was tearing off the aluminum, I then noticed how where the foam touched the aluminum there was no signs of moisture and that rang a bell for me to use it again for the waterproofing purposes. I also shot it and spread it on the under body, AND sprayed rubberized undercoating over it so water is not getting in there at all.

Then I just went in the basement and found some roofing cement and plastered it on the seams because I knew silicone caulk would not stick to the surface and now I have what I feel is a good combination.

Even if it only lasts a few years, It still beats driving jagged rusted panels leading to a rusted door. Also, replacing takes almost no time at all. I can have the flashing cut and screwed in before breaking for lunch.

Even through the trials I have been able to stop the rust from expanding so that's another way to look at it.

Here is a link for the expanding foam, it really is amazing stuff.

http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/bgf.htm

 

Hey, that doesn't look too bad. I bet it's hardly noticeable from a few feet away. Personally, I would be very afraid of the foam. I wasn't aware that it had ANY waterproofing qualities. It reminds me of problems they had on VW beetles from 71 onward. They used foam behind the rear quarter windows to keep exhaust fumes from entering the cabin fresh air vents. Almost all of those bugs have developed serious rust issues there related to the foam.

 

CarCrazy, it looks like the images are not available any longer. If possible, I would like to see them. Can you re-post them? You could also p.m. me. Thanks.

 

Two of the pics are still there, though you have to download to see them. Looks better than jagged rust! I'd expect problems with aluminum over steel though. I'm glad I moved out of the rust belt in 95. I've seen a few really rusty vehicles on the road since, and they almost always have Michigan plates. Saw a 92 S-10 in the junkyard when I was looking for tires. The tailgate had fallen off, and you could actually pull the remains of the bed off the frame! I've also saved a couple off the net.

 

Thanks Adam, I was able to see the pictures using my IDevice. When I tried using my PC, it didn't work.

 

I just ran across this source for replacement body panels:
Mill Supply, Inc. body panel parts for the Ford Aerostar
If only they had bumpers.

 

buy a rust free aerostar with a blown head gasket from north carolina for 500 dollars and swap your stuff over.