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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:52 PM
  #31  
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cavitation
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From: Kirkland, WA
I swapped out my CPS a few weeks ago. When I did, I kept increasing the pressure on the retaining bolt to a point way beyond what I thought was safe and still no go. I was going to give up on it and leave in the grey recall unit. After much thought I decided to put pressure on it that I felt was WAY TOO MUCH for this diameter bolt. I had used a new 6 point socket. The bolt made that loud "crack" noise just like Dan said. When I heard the crack, my heart skipped. I thought for sure the bolt snapped or maybe cracked the aluminum front cover. That bolt took way more force to get loose than I would have imagined given the book torque value called for. Sounds like your CPS retaining bolt is just like mine.

Regarding the comment about putting in a Cummins...definately tempting on so many levels!
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #32  
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From: Parker, CO
Originally Posted by megawatt00
How does the connector going to the CPS look Curtis? There have been one or two people that have had to replace the connector here. Maybe you have an intermittent connection there?
Yeah I did remember to check that when I was under there. The connection looks good, and I traced the wire back and found no signs of chaffing.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #33  
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From: Parker, CO
Thanks for the suggestions on the impact socket. I don't have one in a 10mm size. I've been careful not to strip out the bolt so far, but I know I'm pushing my luck.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #34  
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Mine did not seem to tight at all. I used a buddies cheap kobalt kit. just a 3" extencion with a 3/8 rachet. Hope I did not tighten the new one down to much got me worried now.
Anyway good luck on the solution I might be in the begining stages of the same problem.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 11:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by caverjoe
Mine did not seem to tight at all. I used a buddies cheap kobalt kit. just a 3" extencion with a 3/8 rachet. Hope I did not tighten the new one down to much got me worried now.
Anyway good luck on the solution I might be in the begining stages of the same problem.
Yeah, this makes me want to go underneath and put some antiseeze on the bolt.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 06:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
Yeah, this makes me want to go underneath and put some antiseeze on the bolt.
Guzzles' write up on the CPS R R calls for putting anti seize on the bolt.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #37  
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Had a similar problem on my Dad's Excursion. Ended up having a bad PCM relay. Maybe try swapping it with anothe rone or buying a new one.

I've had a similar problem too. Hope you get it fixed.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #38  
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Did you get the CPS broke loose yet??? My IPR looks like it got hot or something melted it a little.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 06:29 AM
  #39  
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cleatus12r
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If you need to borrow a PCM Curtis, let me know and I'll send one to you to try.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #40  
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From: Parker, CO
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
If you need to borrow a PCM Curtis, let me know and I'll send one to you to try.
Holy crap! Really????

I most certainly will take you up on that offer. My truck right now is having trouble starting almost every single day. Takes anywhere from 5 minutes to a few hours to get it started. I keep playing around with stuff, but absolutely nothing works twice in a row to get it started.

What I have figured out is that I can get it started quicker with no extended cranking. If it doesn't fire in 5 seconds or less worth of cranking, I turn the key off and cycle again quickly, then try to crank again. Do this several times in a row. If it doesn't catch, shut it off, remove the key, and let it sit for a few minutes, then try again.

When I do it this way, it will eventually start, and with very little to no smoke. If I do extended cranking and it catches, it will fog out the neighborhood with raw fuel smoke.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #41  
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Yeah. Really.

I know I've gotten your address a dozen times, but I don't keep that stuff so if you want to PM me, I'll get a PCM on the way. It likely won't leave until Monday now though......
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 11:14 AM
  #42  
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From: Parker, CO
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
Yeah. Really.

I know I've gotten your address a dozen times, but I don't keep that stuff so if you want to PM me, I'll get a PCM on the way. It likely won't leave until Monday now though......
PM sent.

Thanks again, Cody!

It seems that with talking to some guys, my problem is either a PCM issue or a mechanical issue (ie injectors). I've had a chance to share what's going on with Rocky, and he also thinks it's the PCM, or I have an injector or injectors that are failing, not firing correctly when cold, or perhaps one or two blowing oil by and not allowing oil pressure to build. In that case, it would have to be on the passenger's side, since I'm getting oil pressure on the driver's side oil rail.

I don't have much blowby, so I'm doubting a compression issue.

I'm also doubting a sensor or wiring issue. Most of those issues would also pop up after the truck is running, and most would set codes too. Perhaps the IPR would be the most suspect out of those, but I've had one fail before, and it had other symptoms that went along too.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #43  
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From: Parker, CO
Ok, well it started up just fine today using the block heater. I'm going to try it again tomorrow to see what happens.

Ran more diagnostics today too, it passes everything. All sensors are reporting normal, voltages are good, rotational velocities good (all except #8 are below 1%, #8 is at 2%, and that's with a grey CPS rather than a black one). Passes the CCT, KOER, Buzz, KOEO.

I'll ohm the glow plugs after the engine cools.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #44  
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cleatus12r
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Regardless of what you figure out, the PCM is at UPS and it should be there by Wednesday.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 09:50 PM
  #45  
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Just throwing it out there. My dad had his excursion towed in for a bad PCM relay. Not sure if tht would show up on AE or not though.

I swapped the relays around too, but I think the mechanic said that his wiring diagram was different that the owner's manual. I'm not sure about this though.
 
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