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I assume you are getting closer to the problem then???
Sorry, nothing more to add.
My gut tells me no. I just don't see it as an ICP problem. It's firing fuel, and I can watch ICP climb as I crank with both AE and my ICP gauge. They both agree (at least to within about 50 psi) with each other.
Back when I had a bad IPR, it wasn't smoking while cranking, leading me to believe it was a CPS for a while. After two different CPS's, and still having no-start conditions and stalling, I finally started looking at ICP with AE and found the IPR as the culprit. This time around, I don't have any of those symptoms.
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
Sorry that my earlier suggestion wasn't a cure for your problem.
I sure hope that the truck acts up enough to find the problem. Few things are more frustrating than trying to diagnose an intermittent condition.
Cody, it's no problem at all, and I do appreciate your input and that suggestion. Diagnosing something via the internet isn't exactly the easiest approach. I was really hoping your suggestion was the cause of my problem, and it made perfect sense at the time.
Subscribing.
What's really puzzling me is the smoke out the tailpipe and still no start.
Exactly.
If it were cold outside, my first thought would be glow plugs. However, it's nice and warm, and I even jumpered the GPR just in case.
Something I'm wondering, and just throwing something out there as a thought.... Someone at PSN suggested the CPS, saying he had the exact same symptoms, down to the very last detail. He said he replaced the CPS, and it worked fine.
Now here's my deal. I'm currently running a grey CPS, and have been for probably the last year. Reason being was that I shipped off another grey CPS and my only black CPS over to Jonathan at Swamps for testing (if anyone remembers that CPS thread I made a while back). At any rate, Jonathan had it for quite a few months before shipping it back. I currently have the black CPS in the box in my garage, as I never got around to re-installing it back in my truck.
Ok, with that said. I'm wondering about the cam gear. You see, if there is any movement on that cam gear, and it smacks the black CPS... instant failure and a dead CPS. But what about the grey ones? Is it possible I could have some cam gear walk, possibly smacked the end of my grey CPS, and now it's freaking out?
I don't know, just throwing something out there for discussion.
If your CPS ever decides it wants to play nice and come out then take a close look at it and see if it looks like anything has hit it.
I'm wondering if you don't have some kind of an oddball short or loose wire somewhere in the engine harness that is giving you all these fits.
If your CPS ever decides it wants to play nice and come out then take a close look at it and see if it looks like anything has hit it.
LOL, I just now tried yet again to get it out. I've used PB Blaster and let it soak. I've sprayed PB blaster and went out driving the truck to full temps, came back and tried it again while the engine was hot. And now that the engine has cooled just a bit, I tried again hoping that temperature changes would have helped loosen it up.
Not even a budge, and my hand hurts like hell.
I really need to buy some air ratchets.
Originally Posted by superduty4x4
I'm wondering if you don't have some kind of an oddball short or loose wire somewhere in the engine harness that is giving you all these fits.
Could very well be a possibility. Problem is, everywhere I've looked so far hasn't turned up anything yet.
I've worked on this damn truck so much, my neighbors are asking when I'm going to put a Cummins in it.
LOL, I just now tried yet again to get it out. I've used PB Blaster and let it soak. I've sprayed PB blaster and went out driving the truck to full temps, came back and tried it again while the engine was hot. And now that the engine has cooled just a bit, I tried again hoping that temperature changes would have helped loosen it up.
How does the connector going to the CPS look Curtis? There have been one or two people that have had to replace the connector here. Maybe you have an intermittent connection there?
How does the connector going to the CPS look Curtis? There have been one or two people that have had to replace the connector here. Maybe you have an intermittent connection there?
I just replaced mine recently. The wires were bare and burnt. Went through a few CPS's before discovering this. Cheap fix from ford.
Part# WPT-899
7U2Z-14S411-SA
How does the connector going to the CPS look Curtis? There have been one or two people that have had to replace the connector here. Maybe you have an intermittent connection there?
Originally Posted by Waynenap
I just replaced mine recently. The wires were bare and burnt. Went through a few CPS's before discovering this. Cheap fix from ford.
Part# WPT-899
7U2Z-14S411-SA
Nice grab guys, I remember this being said here. You got to get that CPS out of there Curtis, the suspence is killing me. These CPS's are goofy, as you well know. You covered everything else and even got an AE, shees. Good luck again. Still subscribed..
I don't know what I'm talking about, so I'll just ramble a few thoughts. A computer has a hard boot and a soft boot, is de-powering the PCM the same as a hard boot, or is there some way to hard boot a PCM? Maybe dealer re-program (or auto computer exchange)?
I don't buy the cam walk. I can hit a black, blue or gray CPS with a hammer with pretty much the same result as I'm guessing you'll see if the cam gear contacts the CPS. Besides, that wouldn't explain it running perfectly fine the other times.
The rough starts might offer some clue. Cody's comments before about KAM, and checksum, and other stuff has me leaning toward something internal in the PCM not doing it's part. So far your starts have come after de-powering the PCM and unplugging the ICP (causing the PCM to ignore the reading and resort to default tables). Seems like doing something to "wake" the PCM up is getting you running again.
Perhaps this is one of the side effects of the "new and improved" gray CPS? We really still don't know much about them, and this may be one of the quirks. I wonder if Cody has been paying attention to CPS color?
Does your tuning software allow you to do live tuning? Could you use it to monitor live data beyond what AE can see? Perhaps the rough start is a funny signal from the CPS and the timing is just off like Pete said. Do you have the stuff on hand to drill and tap the CPS bolt if you snap it off? Have an extractor to get it out if you get lucky?
If the no start comes back again, I'd almost try unplugging something different like maybe the EOT sensor or anything else that will cause the PCM to use default data from some table so you don't focus on an ICP that may not be the problem.
Holy Hell this is not to encouraging I think I am just starting with the same problem. My truck just quit while running up the road yesterday, and I just ordered an AE from Clay today. I know what it feels like to just crank crank crank with no start.
Hope we can figure it out
LOL, I just now tried yet again to get it out. I've used PB Blaster and let it soak. I've sprayed PB blaster and went out driving the truck to full temps, came back and tried it again while the engine was hot. And now that the engine has cooled just a bit, I tried again hoping that temperature changes would have helped loosen it up.
Not even a budge, and my hand hurts like hell.
I really need to buy some air ratchets.
Could very well be a possibility. Problem is, everywhere I've looked so far hasn't turned up anything yet.
I've worked on this damn truck so much, my neighbors are asking when I'm going to put a Cummins in it.
What you need in this instance is a new, (not worn out) 10mm impact socket.
They are always black, not chrome.
The reason that I spec impact socket for you this time is the walls are thicker and will not deflect under heavy load.
If you don't have one, go buy one for this job.
Get the appropriate length extension and a long breaker bar and put some pressure on that bolt.
I've noticed on my truck when I've pulled the CPS that it let's loose with a pretty good cracking noise, then it's fine.