Cold starts
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
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Cold starts
Sorry this one is going to take some explaining.
The problem: Cold starting at temperatures around 40-45 degrees. I run my truck daily in Las Vegas with not starting problems. This has happened the two times I went camping in Utah where the truck has sat with out starting for two days, and the nights get a little cold. When I went to try to start the truck it takes trying to start and cycling the key for about 15-20 minutes, and then it starts and runs rough for just a few minutes until it warms up.
Things tested so far. The batteries are at least 2-3 years old, but it maintains 12 VDC while cranking, and upon starting up jumps right to 14.25 VDC, so I believe the batteries are good and the alternator too. I also had the codes check along with the injectors buzzed three weeks ago with no issues. My next conclusion was to check the GPR, but I don't have one. I have the glow plug control module.
Is there a way to check the glow plug control module?
Is there something else I should look at? Thanks
The problem: Cold starting at temperatures around 40-45 degrees. I run my truck daily in Las Vegas with not starting problems. This has happened the two times I went camping in Utah where the truck has sat with out starting for two days, and the nights get a little cold. When I went to try to start the truck it takes trying to start and cycling the key for about 15-20 minutes, and then it starts and runs rough for just a few minutes until it warms up.
Things tested so far. The batteries are at least 2-3 years old, but it maintains 12 VDC while cranking, and upon starting up jumps right to 14.25 VDC, so I believe the batteries are good and the alternator too. I also had the codes check along with the injectors buzzed three weeks ago with no issues. My next conclusion was to check the GPR, but I don't have one. I have the glow plug control module.
Is there a way to check the glow plug control module?
Is there something else I should look at? Thanks
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
there have been some good threads about unexpected voltage draws while the truck is off. one was the a/c clutch being stuck engaged if I recall correctly. another such thought is as the diode starts to go it can be charging the batts ok while running but it could be causing a draw while turned off. checking for a warm alternator while the engine is cold should reveal that one. two new ideas for me I learned here over the last week+
that would partially cover phantom electrical possibilities. fortunately I didn't have to start analyzing the health of my oil system but this is a good thing to keep up with.
that would partially cover phantom electrical possibilities. fortunately I didn't have to start analyzing the health of my oil system but this is a good thing to keep up with.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I can always tell when my glow plugs are working properly.. Right after a cold start, measure your voltage at the battery at a idle. It should be under 12 volts for about a minute and half.. then jumping up to 13.8 - 14.3 or so...
I use a digtal meter like the following:
http://12voltgifts.com/accessories/v...tage-meter.htm
I use a digtal meter like the following:
http://12voltgifts.com/accessories/v...tage-meter.htm
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Sorry this one is going to take some explaining.
The problem: Cold starting at temperatures around 40-45 degrees. I run my truck daily in Las Vegas with not starting problems. This has happened the two times I went camping in Utah where the truck has sat with out starting for two days, and the nights get a little cold. When I went to try to start the truck it takes trying to start and cycling the key for about 15-20 minutes, and then it starts and runs rough for just a few minutes until it warms up.
Things tested so far. The batteries are at least 2-3 years old, but it maintains 12 VDC while cranking, and upon starting up jumps right to 14.25 VDC, so I believe the batteries are good and the alternator too. I also had the codes check along with the injectors buzzed three weeks ago with no issues. My next conclusion was to check the GPR, but I don't have one. I have the glow plug control module.
Is there a way to check the glow plug control module?
Is there something else I should look at? Thanks
The problem: Cold starting at temperatures around 40-45 degrees. I run my truck daily in Las Vegas with not starting problems. This has happened the two times I went camping in Utah where the truck has sat with out starting for two days, and the nights get a little cold. When I went to try to start the truck it takes trying to start and cycling the key for about 15-20 minutes, and then it starts and runs rough for just a few minutes until it warms up.
Things tested so far. The batteries are at least 2-3 years old, but it maintains 12 VDC while cranking, and upon starting up jumps right to 14.25 VDC, so I believe the batteries are good and the alternator too. I also had the codes check along with the injectors buzzed three weeks ago with no issues. My next conclusion was to check the GPR, but I don't have one. I have the glow plug control module.
Is there a way to check the glow plug control module?
Is there something else I should look at? Thanks
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 708
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That is what I am thinking, but since I dont have a relay(Cali truck). I dont know how to test to see if they are working. All I know is that right after start up I have well over 14 volts.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Are there any output terminals to any of the glow plugs that you could test for power?
Or is it all encased and inaccessable without pierciing the wiring insulation?
Or is it all encased and inaccessable without pierciing the wiring insulation?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
You can remove the 9 pin connector, located near the top of each valve cover and test the glow plugs individually with an ohm meter as follows:
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
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More Turbo
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You can remove the 9 pin connector, located near the top of each valve cover and test the glow plugs individually with an ohm meter as follows:
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
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