Front brake teardown
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Front brake teardown
Fellas,
While tinkering on the front end i noticed i have some small grooves starting on my rotors only to see that one of my pads is missing half of itself!! Does anyone have a step by step on the D60 pad replacement and rotor removal? Thanks as always!! Love my never-ending project!
While tinkering on the front end i noticed i have some small grooves starting on my rotors only to see that one of my pads is missing half of itself!! Does anyone have a step by step on the D60 pad replacement and rotor removal? Thanks as always!! Love my never-ending project!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,505
Likes: 5,563
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
very easy. knock the pins out of the caliper bracket, and the caliper comes off to remove the pads.
as for the rotor, if i remember correctly, you will need to remove the rotor and hub assembly and press the studs out to remove the rotor.
as for the rotor, if i remember correctly, you will need to remove the rotor and hub assembly and press the studs out to remove the rotor.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Buy a cheap, open end lugnut or two at a parts store to pound out the studs using a BFH. That's what I do. Works great. The lugnugs work great for air hammering the studs back in after drifting.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
well as always you fellas made this a snap, 30 miutes for both sides, took me days on the stupid minivan, haha. here is a link to the album with pics. I was getting increased wear on the drivers side thanks to the PO jackass who didnt reinstall the retaining spring to hold the pads in place so they slid back and had a lip where there was no contact. Off to the JY for a new one and ill be set. you can see the reason for the replacement, i lost part of the pad and it was grabbing metal, no major damage but i dont have the cash for the rotors right now or the time, i might just get them done around tax time, who knows but this will get me down the road for 50 bucks haha.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
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Is the D50 TTB the same? I noticed that I can buy a rotor for 30 bucks, or a rotor with hub/studs already pressed in for 100. Now I'm wondering if I will be able to press them myself. I have a rotor with deep cracks about to come apart 
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
not sure if they are the same but if you have an impact wrench a spare lugnut and some washers, you can "pull" them into place. I wouldnt pay all the extra money just for that service. I did the same thing on the wifes van, worked like a charm and i saved 115 bucks. Still cant believe that the pads on the van are twice as much as the huge truck haha, the pads are half the size of the trucks pads lol.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Don't buy a new hub. If you do, you'll have to put in bearings and seals. I have a D50 TTB. Buy an open end lugnut or two from the parts store. With the front end in the air, remove your tires and brakes. Pull off the rotor & hub assembly. Now thread the open end lugnut on a stud 3/4 of the threads in the lugnut. Hit it hard with a BFH a couple times. The stud will fall down and you'll have to take off the lugnut. Repeat this step 15 more times. To reinstall the studs, flip the hub over and set the rotor over it the proper way with all holes aligned. I had the assembly sitting on a large piece of wood so it wouldn't damage the face of the hub.. Drop the studs into the holes. Using a big brass drift and your BFH, hit the studs like you have a pair a few times each and they'll be fully seated. You'll feel the difference when drifting a non seated stud vs a fully seated stud. Now put everything back together, bleed the brakes and torque your lugnuts. Drive it for a bit and recheck your lugnut torque.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
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Thanks for the info and the laugh!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I misspoke when I said air hammering on the first post. The first time around I used the air impact to pull the studs through. Lots of noise. This time I drifted them in and it was much quicker... I choked up on the BFH too much when trying to drift in the first couple of studs. Then it was smooth sailing.
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