alright, i got a serious brake problem. i got NO rear brakes. its NOT a leak, i know that for sure. every single line has been replaced. this is a new problem.

my pedal 'clicks' when i hit the breaks. the pedal gets stiff and it just clicks. if i pump it once, the pedal gets soft but still clicks. i jacked up the rear end and let the rears roll. hit the brakes, the pedal got stiff and the rears didnt even slow. pumped it once, pedal got low, and they slowed for a second.

some people say vacuum booster, some say RABS thingy. what could it be?

 

You didn't by chance change the calipers when you did the lines ? The clicking sounds like the RABS trying to work the rear brakes. Could be a couple of things- first, air in the RABS module, which may be expelled gradually, if the RABS is making the clicking,because that means the solenoids are functioning. Otherwise a brake shop, with the proper software can cycle the RABS and vacuum bleed the brake system.

Second, and slightly possible. IF you changed the calipers, and IF you took them in for the core charge, before you came home and installed the new calipers, it is possible on some systems to actually install the calipers UPSIDE down. They still bolt on ok. The problem is with the bleeder screws. If the calipers are put on upside down, the screws are at the bottom of the pistons instead of the top. The result is, you CANNOT get all the air out of the caliper because it is trapped at the top of the caliper. Even bleeding until you get clear solid brake fluid flowing, the air is still trapped at the top, but can be compressed enough to force fluid out the bleeder screw. I've seen it happen, several times. No one catches it initially because like I said, the caliper actually does bolt right on.

Alternately, and this I'm not sure of, with issues like this in older vehicles, the brake proportioning valve could be reset to center the valve pistons. Failure in this area switched most of the braking action to one end or the other. With RABS and ABS systems, this valve may not even be used anymore. If it is, it'll be on the frame, below the master cylinder. It will have both lines from the master coming into the top. The other lines went to the rear and front brakes, and there will be a harness connection plugged into the top of the valve.

Dave

 

I'm going to play it safe and refer you back to this post.

 

i did have to change the drivers side caliper, but this was months ago. maybe like 3. ive put about 2000 miles on the truck since.

if it is the RABS thing, can i just get rid of it? it dosent work anyway and im against ABS in general, especially RABS. i know its either the RABS or the vacuum booster, but id rather throw less money at it then needed.
bite me. i know what both of these systems do, and i know how to replace them. i just want someones opinion on which one went wrong.

 

what has the vacuum booster got to do with it ? thats like power assist on steering.

 

because the pedal is stiff like theres no vacuum assist at all. but it falls slowly with clicking motions.

 

You don't have to get all pissy Louis, I don't mind helping if I think you actually need the help and I am able.

 

I'll ask a question. Is the ABS light on ? Just for the heck of it, did you check the fuse for the ABS system ?

Dave

 

It sounds like you have a restriction and I think it's at the master. Have someone hold the pedal down and crack the rear line open on the master to check flow. If you have flow, keep tracing it back.

 

Check the vacuum booster, just to eliminate that possibility. Push down on the brake pedal, THEN start the truck. If the pedal depresses further when started, booster is working. While it's running, release the brake pedal, wait a few seconds, then shut off the engine. Slowly start pumping the brake pedal. If the resistance continues to get stiffer, almost solid feeling as you pump the pedal, the booster is working.

So, you've indicated no parts problems like leaks, loose connections, etc., so if the booster tests eliminate that as a source, it's the RABS (either trapped air or no power supplied to it. If by chance you have a RED brake light on the dash, that could be the master cylinder, pressure switch, or more trapped air. The trapped air, anywhere, won't trip a code in itself, just cause a low pressure situation which will,

Dave

 

thanks. ill go check that stuff now.

 

Do you even drive a Ford?

Edit: Sorry for another post which doesn't add to the solution. It is a problem I'm not at all familiar with although I am familiar with brake systems and do all my own brake work(guess I've been lucky).
I just irritated easily.

Dave G seems to be doing all he can to help you out Louis....Reps sent

 

I ride a bicycle in my fortys can barely spell the word ford and live with my mother. I am a dishwasher by trade and have been wrong many times. I can still see that Dave is trying to help though. Would you like me to add to his reputation?

 

Deleted, sorry

 

so its not a vacuum booster. so i guess ill just take out the RABS and call it a day! thanks guys! reps sent!