replacing master cylinder
#2
15 minutes tops if everything is coming loose for yea.
Disconnect battery.
Remove the air cleaner housing
Disconnect the fluid level sensor connector
Disconnect the brake pressure switch connector
Disconnect the brake tubes (brake lines)
Remove the brake master cylinder mounting nuts
Remove the brake master cylinder
Were the time is, "bleeding"
Bleeding things to get the air out is the hardest part and the most time consuming. I bought another reservoir cap and put in my air compressor fitting. Charged the reservoir to 5psi. Start bleeding the rears first. Open up bleeder and wait until you loose about a 1/2" of fluid in the reservoir. Tighten bleeder. Move on to other rear bleeder. Repeat..
Fill reservoir. Then bleed fronts, one at a time. The reservoirs are so big that this process works well.
Torquing items.
20ftlbs master cylinder mounting nuts.
11-14ftlbs. Brake lines to master cylinder. (or just tight. lol)
12-18ftlbs. bleeder screws.
I have done this before(see below pic) for bleeding the master cylinder. Just hook up lines like this,add fluid and push the plunger by using a push tool(like a 1/4" extension). But when i had to replace a master cylinder recently i didn't bleed the master cylinder. I just did the bleeding process above and it worked just fine.
Disconnect battery.
Remove the air cleaner housing
Disconnect the fluid level sensor connector
Disconnect the brake pressure switch connector
Disconnect the brake tubes (brake lines)
Remove the brake master cylinder mounting nuts
Remove the brake master cylinder
Were the time is, "bleeding"
Bleeding things to get the air out is the hardest part and the most time consuming. I bought another reservoir cap and put in my air compressor fitting. Charged the reservoir to 5psi. Start bleeding the rears first. Open up bleeder and wait until you loose about a 1/2" of fluid in the reservoir. Tighten bleeder. Move on to other rear bleeder. Repeat..
Fill reservoir. Then bleed fronts, one at a time. The reservoirs are so big that this process works well.
Torquing items.
20ftlbs master cylinder mounting nuts.
11-14ftlbs. Brake lines to master cylinder. (or just tight. lol)
12-18ftlbs. bleeder screws.
I have done this before(see below pic) for bleeding the master cylinder. Just hook up lines like this,add fluid and push the plunger by using a push tool(like a 1/4" extension). But when i had to replace a master cylinder recently i didn't bleed the master cylinder. I just did the bleeding process above and it worked just fine.
#4
You also need to bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it to get all the air out of the piston areas. Takes a few pieces of short tubing connected to the brake line ports. Might need to purchase the bench-bleed kit from an auto parts store, but it should not be more than about $12-$18.
Install the bleeding tubes
Fill the reservoir with your brake fluid
Use a large screw driver to push the piston from the back side while on the bench
Repeat the last step several times until you see no more air bubbles coming up into the reservoir through the bleeding tubes
Then follow the steps above for installation that Dan provided
Install the bleeding tubes
Fill the reservoir with your brake fluid
Use a large screw driver to push the piston from the back side while on the bench
Repeat the last step several times until you see no more air bubbles coming up into the reservoir through the bleeding tubes
Then follow the steps above for installation that Dan provided
#6
Only if your piston is "bypassing" or leaking by. Most brake systems can be significantly improved by simply flushing the entire system with new fluid (unless you already flush your system at least every two years).
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LARIAT 85
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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05-09-2007 11:00 PM
Farmboy02
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
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11-09-2003 07:18 PM
2003, 2006, 57, bleed, brake, cylinder, expidition, ford, master, mastercylinder, powerstroke, remove, replace, resivoir, truck