you in dallas by chance? if so you may be local to me if you need more help.

 

Hi All,

I followed Cheezit's instructions today.

The fuel cooler rad was 2 X 10mm - easy to access and the rad came off easily. Like Cheezit suggested, I laid it down on it's side between the bumper and the charge air cooler. It slid down there perfectly.

I popped off the lid on the degas chamber and immediately started hearing a glug, glug, glug sound. I'm assuming that was the air and liquid moving around/settling.

I took of the fuel cooler hose and the glugging continued. I back filled at this hose but it only took about 100ml. After about 1 minute, the glugging sound subsided and everything was quiet. I filled the degas chamber and it took more than I expected. I filled it near the top, so I could see it through the sight glass window. I suspect that is too much but I noticed an overflow tube so I figure everything will work itself out.

I buttoned everything back up, started the truck and volia!, everything sounds good. I ran the truck for about 15 minutes and still everything was perfectly quiet.

I am packing the truck in the next hour to leave for Boston (7hr drive) so I'm hoping everything is good. I suspect that it is.

THANKS CHEEZIT! The time you took to post instructions saved me a good deal of money and stress. I had to take this trip and was worried I would be stranded roadside if that pump when while traveling.

I hope this post help others in the future.

If it starts squealing again I'll update this thread.

THANKS!

D

 

I'm in Ontario, from Nova Scotia but my name is Dallas.

All this = scotiadallas

: )

D

 

Great outcome!

 

sweet very good to hear.

 

In Boston now. It's purring like a kitten. Cheezit's fix worked.

 

Cheezit, you are the man. nice job.

 

I just came upon this thread while trying to diagnose the squeal described above. Advice was spot on. Thanks for the help. Just joined up today. Hope i can be of help to someone else in future. One thing i add though, mine was pretty empty so i had to actually fill the main tube a little at a time and blow it through to get all the air out .once bubbles stopped, i put it back together and all good. Might even be able to do it without taking off cooler. Just pour in a little at a time and blow into tube to force bubbles out. Again thanks for info

 

Wow, glad to see my efforts in posting helped someone else. Cheezit is responsible, I'm just thanking him by posting and paying it forward - so are you!

 

Always happy yo help

 

would this be a whine you can hear on accel and decel?

I picked up a whine Friday evening, and it wasn't terrible. Noticeable on Saturday, down right concerning on Sunday.

Dropped it off at my shop this morning, they said the driveline checks out fine. My initial thought was the diff, and I will still check that, as I'm not sure if the shop did.

But I checked my fuel cooler cap and it was kaput, slapped a new one on after adding some coolant, but the sound is still present. Hoping this fix can apply.

 

Hey guys. I've had an issue with constant fuel rail pressure bring too high. With and without codes showing. Here's what I've done that seems to have fixed the problem. I had to replace my non-working fuel coolant pump. It seems that bleeding air is a problem for many. I did it a simple as I could. I didn't have to remove anything other than the pump. I unplugged and removed the pump from the rubber mount. Unbolted the large ground strap for more ability to move the pump and hoses. I took hose clamp off channel locks and clamped on either side of the pump, carefully as not to damage the hoses. Removed the pump. Took the new pump and primed the small amount of coolant into the hose and pump. Reattached the hoses and then slid the pump back into the rubber mount and plugged it in. I also replaced the reservoir cap. With removing the inner wheel well splash shield, part change and topping off the coolant it took about an hour. No air in the system. Easy. I also added Archoil fuel treatment and system cleaner to about 15 gallons of fuel and friction modifier to the oil and power steering. It took about 30 minutes and the truck came back alive with no codes so far. Guess we'll see if this has permanently fixed my problems. Hope this idea helps someone else avoid the air bleeding problems when replacing this pump, as well as fixing that dreaded fuel rail pressure too high issue.