...everything was goin' PERFECT...all parts were cleaning up real nice!!!

..then..I got to the !@#$%^&* EGR...

Aluminum fasteners into a aluminum casting one one side holding a
cast-iron piece on the OTHER side?...darn engineers....

Ya know...I did 20+ years as a designer within the Ford/Visteon system...and I would have NEVER done anything this ignorant...

THIS is what I ended up with...




Just enough of the bolt left to grab on too....tried vice-grips just for
giggles but NO movement...wonder if puttin' some heat to it might help?...





...but...of course...what little IS left is BENT...




...an "almost" perfect" job now...ruined...The_Girl is gonna be pissed...

...this truck is her baby & she has owned it since new...man I gotta get this straighten out today...

...any suggestions...???


What really burns me the most is ...I'm better than this...

I’m gonna guess this bolt is at LEAST a grade-8… maybe 8.8 or better?…I dunno…it snapped fairly quick..I was really suprised!

OH...just for reference...this 90-degree ALUMINUM casting is the piece that the throttle body bolts up against...that then bolts down on top of
the upper plenum......yee-ha...

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Does anyone know what the "offical" NAME of this part is?

I'm just curious...


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Boy, I feel better now. I did EXACTLY the same thing 2 weeks ago. The bolt holes are through the EGR casting mount, so water and corrosion work all the way through. I used rust eating spray, then center drilled them. An easy out turned them right out. Use an easy out that's at least 3/16" on the lead end, or you may snap it off. I used heat on the first one, (fairly low temp because of the aluminum) and it didn't seem to make much difference. They both turned out OK.

I used anti-seize on all the bolts, for a dozen or more things I replaced or removed for cleaning.

Dave

 

P.S.- I did remove the throttle body housing to drill the 2 bolts. As much for the drilling as to remove the EGR tube flare nut, the tube rusted off, and the firewall is pretty close right there.

Dave

 

I have been succesfull most of the time by heating the stud to a dull red for a short time to allow the heat to go down the bolt into the casting.
This should break the bond, then as it cools it shrinks.
Then if your lucky it may move a bit.
Then apply some losener, let it set awhile then slowly twist in the direction of removal then back in again.
Repeat this to get more and more movement.
Finally it will hopefully losen to the point it will begin to back out.
Trick s not to ruin the grip you have to play with by rounding or breaking it off.
Last time I had to weld a nut onto the stub to get a way to move it.
Use a good pair of vicegrips with clean sharp teeth.
Good luck.
Let us know if you got it out.

 

...funny thing....the stud that was in the "other" hole...backed out with
almost NO effort at all!

This one...in the "forward" hole...well...did not go as well...

I'm waitin' on a callback from the dealer to see IF I can get the replacement bolt...

Goin' back out now...I hosed this thing down so much I don't think I have
anything left to spray it with....

Channel-Lok's did nothing...

I'm just a little bit nervous about puttin' the heat to this cheap-a$$
aluminum casting......

BUT...I also don't want to flip for a new one...so here goes...

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I would try what Bluegrass suggested. If you can't weld a nut onto the end do you have a set of dies. I can't really tell how much thread is sticking out but if you could cut new threads and thread two nuts down and back the first one out into the second , that might give you more grip. I've used two thin nuts to do this. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

 

Sears sells a set of Stud Extractors that will take that out in a jiffy.

 

That bolt looks like it may have been cross threaded by the last guy, hard to tell in the picture, but it looks to me like he was twisting the head and if he would have gave it a hair more it would have snapped on him instead of you. I'm thinking the threads are coming out with the bolt not matter how you get it out. On the bright side it doesn't look like a dead hole, worse case senario you can drill over sized and run a nut and bolt if you don't have a tap set and heli-coil laying around. Things could be worse, good luck with it.

 

set a 1/2 inch nut over the stud. crank up the welder and weld the nut solid. when its red the heat will soak into the stud threads. put a wrench on the nut and screw it out.

 

OK...first off...the "official" Ford name of this parts is...
"Intake Manifold Spacer”

Success!!! Ya man…movin’ on…now I just need to get it all back
together..ha-ha…

After applying a SMALL amount a heat...and I do mean a small
amount…I was able to simply grab the broken bolt with a NEW
pair of Vice Grips and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY back the broken
bolt out in stages working it back-and forth…SLOWLY…

I think there was some type of thread locker, or maybe anti-seize, on the threads...

It was still a VERY labored task to get this thing to back out of the aluminum casting!

What a PITA...


Anyway...MUCH THANKS to everyone for your help and suggestions on this one...

I was gonna start on the reassembly last night immediately…BUT…then a NASTY storm blew in out of NOWHERE…I mean NASTY as
in rippin’the top half of garages OFF and thousands without power kinda nasty...man...it was just crazy...

We got lucky...the storm went just south of us and we only ended up
with some rain and a little bit of the wind...NO damage here…

Needless to say...I decided to just take a break and call it a day...quit
while I was ahead kinda thing...

Stopped by the dealer & grabbed ALL new gaskets...I figured after all
this why cut corners now...I had to order ONE hose that "should" be in
Fri. or Sat. or whenever...

I can get by with the old one for now until the new one shows up!

And now...Friday @ 8:30 A.M. it is POURING rain.... this truck is
outside...

HAPPY LABOR DAY EVERYONE!!!

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...FINALLY...got everything back together and hit the key...

...click,click,click.......get out the cables...fired right up!

Let it warm up to set the gaskets...then...pulled into the street and lit the
tires up and went for a short ride thru the subdivision......then hit the
streets for a bit befor putting some miles on the hi-way...

...ran like champ! Pulled real hard while passing on the hi-way...

Idles right @ 700 RPM ...

Shut it down...went back out about a half hour later...dead battery...

This has been going on for 2 days now...what did I do?

Maybe it is just time for a new battery?

Altho I did have the battery disconnected for a few days...

Has anyone ever used Advanced Auto Parts?

AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 58
OE CCA's is 540. The Gold has 610 CCA.

Advance Auto Parts: Battery, Group Size 58, 610 CCA by AutoCraft Gold - Part 58-3

The only reason I ask is 'cause I just got a flyer in the mail today
with $20 off coupon...

OH...I still have NOT head from the !@#$%^&* Ford dealer about the parts I ordered!!!

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