I replaced 3 injectors to get rid of an injector "knock" to diagnose the cylinders I cracked fuel lines and saw the one that stopped the knocking so I replaced that cylinders injector aswell as two others, I installed brand new return line kit, and I installed it properly, came out this morning and the truck started with ease so there is no air intrusion.

So here is what I am experiencing, if you have ever sucked air in your truck you'll know how the whole truck shakes and the motor lopes real hard, well my truck shakes like that but my motor is running fine, I traced hard lines on framerail aswell and no leaks, the truck also started in 1 second of cranking time so theres no way I have air intrusion(also noted the truck sat only 9 hours) I looked under the truck while its running and the transfer case is shaking real hard and the transmission mount is moving around a bit too, I also want to note my injector knock is present when the truck first started, I drove for 4 miles got out and listened and the motor was nice and quiet made a stop shut truck off and came back 10 minutes later started the truck and the knock was back is there a break in period for injectors?? I also want to note the injectors I replaced were original and were E code, I replaced with new delphi BB code so the other 5 cylinders are E. I bumped timing about half a dimes width to the retarded position to see if maybe the pump was too advanced but the knock didnt seem to change, I have no smoke, when truck first started there was a white haze but thats normal, exhaust smells just a tiny bit rich.

can someone please tell me whats going on here

*copied from my post on OB really want to fix this today*

 

All injectors must be of the same code ...

Replacing some injectors raises the pop pressure on those new injectors while you still have old low popping injectors ... Basically your timing is at one point for 3 cylinders and another for 5 cylinders!

Of course it's not going to run correctly!

Replacing less then the set would be like Pamela Anderson Sillyconing one boob!
The jobs only half done!

Your best bet would have been to replace the 3 with USED E code injectors.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

yeah you gotta get those e codes out. they are killing the whole setup. five injectors is about 100 bucks depending on where you go and it is going to start wiping out more stuff so get on it fast.

 

taking my mothers car to go pick up 5 more injectors going with BB code $30ea, so that all of them are the same, hopefully this will take care of the knock and shaking. I drove about 45 miles with the truck doing this, what did I damage?

 

probably not too much, just make sure it is noise free when you get them in. did you replace the IP if not then all the new injectors will wear that sucker out, if you did then you will need to get it all timed right again. this will definitely help that pesky noise though!

 

damn, I couldnt afford the new IP, I don't want to take a chance with pensacola's 325 dollar pump because people have had bad experiences, how many miles could I get out of my pump now?

 

Todays date: 09/01/2010, tell me when it fails, I'll tell you how long it'll last ...

If you get a bad pump they'll swap it, then test it, if it's good, it's on you!
That means the second IP will cost you $650 plus all the shipping!

At least thats what they told me!
I didn't buy ...

I'm sending mine all the way to Santa Rosa CA to Santa Rosa Diesel Injection, I have a long history with them and trust them completely.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

got the new BB codes in so all 8 are matching, No more shaking! yay! hahaha, first started the truck and the knocking was noticable not like before though it cleared up after driving a few miles, exhaust is rich diesel stink, cannot tell if there is a smoke haze it did not look like it, not sure whats going on. I am almost positive it is normal for these engines to sound like there knocking all the time since its a diesel? also when does cold advance activate?

 

for me it seems like it was just the first cold start of the day

 

sounds like you need to have it timed now.
the cold advance/fast idle is on at the first cold start of the day.when it clicks off,the timing goes back to normal and the idle drops (generally id say inside 10 minutes with the temp being 70-80 outside.)
thats how mine works anyway.

diesels rattle.
the higher the advance,the more the rattle.
you want it to sound kinda loud/more rattle with cold timing advance on.
once its kicks down,it should pretty much lose that powerstroke rattle,but of course its still present.it's not a gas job.but it should run much more quite than a cummins or powerstroke engine.this doesnt mean your engine is properly timed however.just in the ball park (some people can't get it close to 8.5 degrees at all though.seems,you better be good or lucky lol.)

then you want to take it to a shop and have them set it using a meter,if your after max performance and fuel economy.
many timed theirs by ear,and had Mel set them (over on OBN. you see those threads from time to time?) and they were not even close lol.
that can cost $ out the tail pipe in wasted fuel,and missing out on up to an easy 10-20 hp depending on how lucky you are setting it.

i have that rich stinky smell you speak of when i first start it.
it kinda sucks letting it warm up while i load my underbody toolboxes lol.

 

thanks for the help you guys! listen the shop I went to buy my injectors said they will charge about $80 for pulse timing method, is that too expensive?