how to increase MPG
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
how to increase MPG
My truck was a factory vehicle before the previous owner I am the third, 1st was owned by factory until 2008, then by a roofer until week ago when I bought it, I can imagine it did a ton of idleing when the factory owned it, has 70k miles, original IP and Injectors, as of now I'm seeing about 9mpg city and about 12mpg highway, I have changed the oil to delvac 15w-40, new Wix fuelfilter, run double dose of diesel kleen, cdr valve is new, since I've owned the truck I've put on 500 miles, I have adjusted the timing today, it was extremely retarded so I advanced it and It seems like alot of lost power is back, aswell the smoking has stopped, truck idles great, starts great, does not have a miss when warm, I'm thinking the truck may benefit from new injectors what are your opinions? I would also get the injector kit with all new T's and return lines I would replace all 8, but do not want to spend $300 bucks really, the truck seems to have a constant knock, sounds extremely similar to a powerstroke with noisy/knocking injector, again just looking for opinions, thanks guys for all the help you give me
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
motor makes a bit of a rattle at idle if that's what you are talking about by knock
get a tank of feul through it now that you have the timing worked out and see how she does before you start fixin stuff
also I noticed mine gives me 18mpg if I keep it to 55 and about 15 if I run 70 just saying keepin the rpm down helps these rigs a lot
get a tank of feul through it now that you have the timing worked out and see how she does before you start fixin stuff
also I noticed mine gives me 18mpg if I keep it to 55 and about 15 if I run 70 just saying keepin the rpm down helps these rigs a lot
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
if it sounds like a psd you might have advanced the timing a lil too much. As far as mpgs go, the biggest determining factor is your right foot. I take off slow and use the cruise control when I can. I usually get 21+ mpg
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
no no this knock was present before I changed the timing, also I only go 65 on thruway I try to keep it below 2k
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
If the fuel system, intake and exhaust system are in good working condition, the only thing you can do is use a light foot on the throttle or swap in higher gears.
From all the response's here with fuel mileage, it seems like it varies a LOT. People with the same engine, trans and gear ratio are getting widely varied fuel mileage. I've seen up to 10 mpg difference in the same setup's. Seems weird that it varies so much!
From all the response's here with fuel mileage, it seems like it varies a LOT. People with the same engine, trans and gear ratio are getting widely varied fuel mileage. I've seen up to 10 mpg difference in the same setup's. Seems weird that it varies so much!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 821
From: Mi'kma'ki
fuel mileage varies so much because of location and how each truck is setup and used.
mines varies all the time due to different size loads and the type of route/road's traveled.
average is all you want to worry about.not peaks,or dips.
johnboggs21 and i have pretty much the same foundation.but he's got a stock bed,and lives where's its all flat.
iv got a big wind catching bed,shorter tires for a little more grunt/gear reduction,and live where there are large hills,and lots of weight on the back.
so in comparison,his 21 mpg and my 16 are not very far off at all considering the huge difference in location and use of the truck difference.
powerstroker100,
the biggest thing you could do,is swap to 3.55's if you have 4.10's (i think you said you had 4.10's right?)
but with a 4wd and a dually,it's not so simple or cheap.
keep in mind,dual wheel's = greater rolling resistance and hurt fuel economy too.
a knock in the engine however does question the injectors of course.
im with peruses,in that i would run a couple tanks with strong doses of fuel treatment first.
mines varies all the time due to different size loads and the type of route/road's traveled.
average is all you want to worry about.not peaks,or dips.
johnboggs21 and i have pretty much the same foundation.but he's got a stock bed,and lives where's its all flat.
iv got a big wind catching bed,shorter tires for a little more grunt/gear reduction,and live where there are large hills,and lots of weight on the back.
so in comparison,his 21 mpg and my 16 are not very far off at all considering the huge difference in location and use of the truck difference.
powerstroker100,
the biggest thing you could do,is swap to 3.55's if you have 4.10's (i think you said you had 4.10's right?)
but with a 4wd and a dually,it's not so simple or cheap.
keep in mind,dual wheel's = greater rolling resistance and hurt fuel economy too.
a knock in the engine however does question the injectors of course.
im with peruses,in that i would run a couple tanks with strong doses of fuel treatment first.
Larger/free flowing exhaust
soup bowl mod
intake mod (via ram air or cowl induction)
ip and injectors changed every 100k.
oil and filter changed regularly (consider synthetics if you have the $ at the time.the less resistance,the better the mpg.)
skinniest tires you can live with and at max tire pressure (checked regularly)
have the engines timing checked by a reputable diesel shop at least every 2 years.(incorrect timing,can be a total killer!!)
keep the air cleaner clean (K&N air filter)
keep the wheel cylinders packed with grease.
swap out 4.10's for 3.55's if you don't tow monster loads regularly (by regularly i mean,at least hauling 5 ton at least once a week.)
swap out old 4 speeds for the E40D auto or the 5 speed stick ZF5 trans.
start out like grandma from your stops.watch stop lights signs ahead of you,as soon as you know the truck will coast to a stop to get there,let off the fuel!
keep it at or under 55 MPH (regardless of gearing,any faster the less efficient and more wind drag you have.)
keep the front end tight! ball joints/tie rods etc and regularly aligned.not doing so,can cost you big in MPG and tire ware.
if you do travel over 55 mph,you will NOT get the mileage you could have if you slowed down.if you do need to travel faster,lose everything that catches the wind,such as bug deflectors,sun visors,wide mirrors etc.
if you dont need it,dont carry it! the more weight you carry,the lower the mpg.it all adds up.
did i mention driving easy? lol.this the the biggest part.learn to hyper mile.learn to keep an even speed.when you get the hang of it,you can make the factory cruise control look horrible for fuel economy.
keep in the highest gear possible at all times,without the engine lugging (not a major concern with the grunt of a diesel.and w the auto,she will downshift on her own when it needs to.)
keep the rpms down,down,down.
consider a turbo,the more air in,the better the mpg (when not actually using the extra power.)
don't turn your pump up to roll coal! black out the pipe = wasted unburnt fuel.nothing more!
keep the E40D trans flushed and changed every 30k miles.transfer case and rear end at least every 100k(least the rear is every 100k not sure about the transfer actually.)
use fuel additive with cetane boost.the cost of the amount used,= over the cost of the lubricity to save pump and injector ware along with better mpg from the increased cetane boost.using the additive saves $.it doesn't cost $.
if you dont need a dually (regularly carrying more weight than SRW tires are rated for,at least weekly) then take off the duals and run single! the more tire drag,the worse the mpg.you can always put the extra two wheels back on when you get ready to hook up to that 5th wheel.
avoid excessive idling.(more than 5 mins just idling is all mpg going into the negative!)
running the A/C is cheaper when over 45 mph due to extra wind drag of having the windows down.
tint the windows(check you local law for max % first! a ticket isn't worth extra mpg gains!)
invest in some sound proofing/weather proofing.use it under everything.this means- a lower A/C setting can be used and still stay cool.
do the heater core bypass valve mod to stop coolant flowing through it during the summer months.
consider ditching that monster fan for a couple electrics mod.
based on the custom grind info,im going to say the "torque cam" will also increase mpg (it has too.it brings the power band down in the rpms a couple hundred,so you get max power without revving as high.)
have a pre 93 truck? consider upgrading to the 3G alternator.they are much more efficient.(dont expect to "see" the mpg gain.but it will be there.over years it all adds up.)
keep the electrical charging system corrosion free.wasted energy going into the alternator due to poor connections/corrosion will cost you $ long term.
running taller/shorter tires? then you NEED to recalibrate your speedometer.this throws your odometer off too,and your mileage calculations will NOT be correct!
.
soup bowl mod
intake mod (via ram air or cowl induction)
ip and injectors changed every 100k.
oil and filter changed regularly (consider synthetics if you have the $ at the time.the less resistance,the better the mpg.)
skinniest tires you can live with and at max tire pressure (checked regularly)
have the engines timing checked by a reputable diesel shop at least every 2 years.(incorrect timing,can be a total killer!!)
keep the air cleaner clean (K&N air filter)
keep the wheel cylinders packed with grease.
swap out 4.10's for 3.55's if you don't tow monster loads regularly (by regularly i mean,at least hauling 5 ton at least once a week.)
swap out old 4 speeds for the E40D auto or the 5 speed stick ZF5 trans.
start out like grandma from your stops.watch stop lights signs ahead of you,as soon as you know the truck will coast to a stop to get there,let off the fuel!
keep it at or under 55 MPH (regardless of gearing,any faster the less efficient and more wind drag you have.)
keep the front end tight! ball joints/tie rods etc and regularly aligned.not doing so,can cost you big in MPG and tire ware.
if you do travel over 55 mph,you will NOT get the mileage you could have if you slowed down.if you do need to travel faster,lose everything that catches the wind,such as bug deflectors,sun visors,wide mirrors etc.
if you dont need it,dont carry it! the more weight you carry,the lower the mpg.it all adds up.
did i mention driving easy? lol.this the the biggest part.learn to hyper mile.learn to keep an even speed.when you get the hang of it,you can make the factory cruise control look horrible for fuel economy.
keep in the highest gear possible at all times,without the engine lugging (not a major concern with the grunt of a diesel.and w the auto,she will downshift on her own when it needs to.)
keep the rpms down,down,down.
consider a turbo,the more air in,the better the mpg (when not actually using the extra power.)
don't turn your pump up to roll coal! black out the pipe = wasted unburnt fuel.nothing more!
keep the E40D trans flushed and changed every 30k miles.transfer case and rear end at least every 100k(least the rear is every 100k not sure about the transfer actually.)
use fuel additive with cetane boost.the cost of the amount used,= over the cost of the lubricity to save pump and injector ware along with better mpg from the increased cetane boost.using the additive saves $.it doesn't cost $.
if you dont need a dually (regularly carrying more weight than SRW tires are rated for,at least weekly) then take off the duals and run single! the more tire drag,the worse the mpg.you can always put the extra two wheels back on when you get ready to hook up to that 5th wheel.
avoid excessive idling.(more than 5 mins just idling is all mpg going into the negative!)
running the A/C is cheaper when over 45 mph due to extra wind drag of having the windows down.
tint the windows(check you local law for max % first! a ticket isn't worth extra mpg gains!)
invest in some sound proofing/weather proofing.use it under everything.this means- a lower A/C setting can be used and still stay cool.
do the heater core bypass valve mod to stop coolant flowing through it during the summer months.
consider ditching that monster fan for a couple electrics mod.
based on the custom grind info,im going to say the "torque cam" will also increase mpg (it has too.it brings the power band down in the rpms a couple hundred,so you get max power without revving as high.)
have a pre 93 truck? consider upgrading to the 3G alternator.they are much more efficient.(dont expect to "see" the mpg gain.but it will be there.over years it all adds up.)
keep the electrical charging system corrosion free.wasted energy going into the alternator due to poor connections/corrosion will cost you $ long term.
running taller/shorter tires? then you NEED to recalibrate your speedometer.this throws your odometer off too,and your mileage calculations will NOT be correct!
.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
If the fuel system, intake and exhaust system are in good working condition, the only thing you can do is use a light foot on the throttle or swap in higher gears.
From all the response's here with fuel mileage, it seems like it varies a LOT. People with the same engine, trans and gear ratio are getting widely varied fuel mileage. I've seen up to 10 mpg difference in the same setup's. Seems weird that it varies so much!
From all the response's here with fuel mileage, it seems like it varies a LOT. People with the same engine, trans and gear ratio are getting widely varied fuel mileage. I've seen up to 10 mpg difference in the same setup's. Seems weird that it varies so much!
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 821
From: Mi'kma'ki
i should mention that high peak of 20 in the graph in my sig was a fillup error.however since my calculations are back to back fillups it didn't matter as far as my avg goes because that dip of 13 mpg followed and corrected my error.
so im not quite as extreme as it appears.
im at 15.98 currently over the course of 11 tanks.
eat your heart out 460
of course the corrupt politics making diesel prices higher than gas (yeah,they know we do better and stick it to us) doesn't help.
my tires where getting eating alive too (work schedule though,i couldn't fit the time off to do it sooner) so i rotated the tires and got a front alignment done.i can feel it goes down the road easier now.not that i didn't know (cus of extreme tire ware) but he told me at the shop,that she was way out.(likely the extra spring i added in the rear,seeing how sensitive the front ttb is to height adjustments.)so hopefully i can gain up to 16+ now avg.
for those interested,you can click on the graph in my sig for details,and save yourself the math to see my "chipper truck" average here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/i...odelName=F-250
in my case,the largest gains i can make is to try and deflect the wind up over/around the large frontal area of that bed.
(i did a little test when building it.i bolted the front sheet on,only on the top.i set my spare tire on the ruff cut lumber-new planked bed floor, and went down the road.at just 15 mph,the wind was strong enough the lift that sheet from the bottom,to slide that tire backwards so it could lift! thats a full 16" tire and rim,sitting on ruff cut lumber. that's catching a lot of air.)
so im not quite as extreme as it appears.
im at 15.98 currently over the course of 11 tanks.
eat your heart out 460
of course the corrupt politics making diesel prices higher than gas (yeah,they know we do better and stick it to us) doesn't help.
my tires where getting eating alive too (work schedule though,i couldn't fit the time off to do it sooner) so i rotated the tires and got a front alignment done.i can feel it goes down the road easier now.not that i didn't know (cus of extreme tire ware) but he told me at the shop,that she was way out.(likely the extra spring i added in the rear,seeing how sensitive the front ttb is to height adjustments.)so hopefully i can gain up to 16+ now avg.
for those interested,you can click on the graph in my sig for details,and save yourself the math to see my "chipper truck" average here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/i...odelName=F-250
in my case,the largest gains i can make is to try and deflect the wind up over/around the large frontal area of that bed.
(i did a little test when building it.i bolted the front sheet on,only on the top.i set my spare tire on the ruff cut lumber-new planked bed floor, and went down the road.at just 15 mph,the wind was strong enough the lift that sheet from the bottom,to slide that tire backwards so it could lift! thats a full 16" tire and rim,sitting on ruff cut lumber. that's catching a lot of air.)
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
fuel mileage varies so much because of location and how each truck is setup and used.
mines varies all the time due to different size loads and the type of route/road's traveled.
average is all you want to worry about.not peaks,or dips.
johnboggs21 and i have pretty much the same foundation.but he's got a stock bed,and lives where's its all flat.
iv got a big wind catching bed,shorter tires for a little more grunt/gear reduction,and live where there are large hills,and lots of weight on the back.
so in comparison,his 21 mpg and my 16 are not very far off at all considering the huge difference in location and use of the truck difference.
mines varies all the time due to different size loads and the type of route/road's traveled.
average is all you want to worry about.not peaks,or dips.
johnboggs21 and i have pretty much the same foundation.but he's got a stock bed,and lives where's its all flat.
iv got a big wind catching bed,shorter tires for a little more grunt/gear reduction,and live where there are large hills,and lots of weight on the back.
so in comparison,his 21 mpg and my 16 are not very far off at all considering the huge difference in location and use of the truck difference.
Tire size and typical city terrain is going to have an effect but 8-10 mpg difference is too big a spread. Add in worn injection pump, injectors and it still seems like 8-10 mpg is too much a spread. Changing IP and injectors on a friends 6.9 made 1-2 mpg difference but it did run and pull better.
Fuel quality can make a 1-3 mpg difference. I don't know of anyplace that has the quality of fuel that we used to get in the 70's. Burns Bros truck stop sold Burns Red fuel that you could smell the difference in quality. Trucks ran smoother and could get a half to one mpg better fuel mileage. Engine even sounded different. You just don't find that kind of fuel anymore.
Junior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
I'm averaging @15 - 16 mpg in my 1989 F-350 Crew Cab 7.3 idi / 5 spd dually. Mixed highway and city. Anyone ever tried adding small portions of Acetone in their tank? Tried to squeeze ultra high mpg out of my '91 escort wagon by taking out all extra weight. Jack, tire, tire iron. Over inflate tires to 38 psi and add a small portion of acetone in with every fill up. Got 40+ mpg going 65 mph on the interstate during an 800 mile round trip. Nice 'cause gas was $4+ a gallon then. Said adding acetone in small amounts can increase mpg but individual results may vary.
VT247
VT247
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
There is also the matter of running different pumps and injectors - for example mine is at least on its second pump, and I got at least three different kinds of injectors (some BB-code, some D-code, and some E-code, all at the same time), so really it's somewhat of a miracle that engine actually runs failry decent - she used to get right around 20 mpg at 55mph before the camper, now with the camper I'd down to 15 mpg which is not too bad considering the increase of weight and decrease of aerodynamics of the whole rig...
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
I understand and agree with what you said. However, I was talking about people with the same setup. Say a 6.9, 4 sp, 4:10's. 1st guy gets 18 mpg, 2nd guy get 12 mpg. Both are running empty, doing basically the same thing. Or the guy that gets 20-21 mpg with 3:54 gears and another can only get 12-13 mpg.
Tire size and typical city terrain is going to have an effect but 8-10 mpg difference is too big a spread. Add in worn injection pump, injectors and it still seems like 8-10 mpg is too much a spread. Changing IP and injectors on a friends 6.9 made 1-2 mpg difference but it did run and pull better.
Fuel quality can make a 1-3 mpg difference. I don't know of anyplace that has the quality of fuel that we used to get in the 70's. Burns Bros truck stop sold Burns Red fuel that you could smell the difference in quality. Trucks ran smoother and could get a half to one mpg better fuel mileage. Engine even sounded different. You just don't find that kind of fuel anymore.
Tire size and typical city terrain is going to have an effect but 8-10 mpg difference is too big a spread. Add in worn injection pump, injectors and it still seems like 8-10 mpg is too much a spread. Changing IP and injectors on a friends 6.9 made 1-2 mpg difference but it did run and pull better.
Fuel quality can make a 1-3 mpg difference. I don't know of anyplace that has the quality of fuel that we used to get in the 70's. Burns Bros truck stop sold Burns Red fuel that you could smell the difference in quality. Trucks ran smoother and could get a half to one mpg better fuel mileage. Engine even sounded different. You just don't find that kind of fuel anymore.
