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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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From: santa clarita
rear differential

Right now I have the stock cover but it is leaking. It needs to be fixed so I was wondering if I should put on a mag-hytec cover or just keep the stock?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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No point in blowing money on a fancy cover.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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you can buy the 08+ alloy/finned rear diff cover from Ford for fairly cheap..

and it looks great. you will ned to buy longer bolts thou.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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All you gain is a better fill plug, and maybe a drain plug. But how often do you really change your diff oil under normal conditions? Cracking it isn't hard, just a PITA to let the gasket-maker set up.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:14 AM
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Keep the stock.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:27 AM
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I think my F450 has one of those finned cover from the factory. I found site claiming that those fins lower the differential temperatures by 30 degree. I just rebuild mine and measured it at 270F while not towing.
Don't think it might matter for average drivers, but it helps in extreme towing.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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I replaced my rusty rear diff cover with the 08 aluminum one. Not because of temperatures, and not for looks... purely because it is aluminum and won't rust again.

I think when i was looking them last year the stamped steel one was $30ish and the stock 08 aluminum one was $50ish. Totally worth the extra $20.

Longer stainless bolts can be purchased at lowes or home depot for fairly cheap.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Alright thanks. I will look into it. Does the new cover stock or the 08 one come with the seal?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kx125str99
Alright thanks. I will look into it. Does the new cover stock or the 08 one come with the seal?
no, you will need to buy some RTV Silicone gasket maker. I use this one:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Just a thin bead around the cover, making sure to go around each bolt hole. There is a write-up on this in the tech folder. It is important to get all the old gasket material off. Use a putty knife and then a skotchbrite pad. Use a solvent like acetone to remove all the oil from the flange face before applying the RTV. Also make sure you get the correct lube for your diff. If you have limited slip you will need to add friction modifier, or use lube that already has friction modifier in it.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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I was going to say the neighbors cat would like to see a fancy one but it looks like you have a lift.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:22 PM
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I saw one that was CLEAR the other day...and I laughed. I also wondered how much that cost. What a waste. You could see the gears though as it had sat still overnight.

Go with stock, or the aluminum has my vote.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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Ok perfect. Ya with the lift makes it a little easier to change can just sit underneath. Also what kind of oil do you guys recomend to put back in it.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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I have had a mag hytec on mine for at least 5 years now. My only beef is the 3/16" hex key needed for that huge drain plug. Why not make it like a quarter or HALF inch and not 3/16? I've broke 2 socket drivers for it removing the plug. I guess at this point I'll just use an Allen wrench and save myself the drip to Sears for replacements...

I change mine about every 100,000.

As to the above post, 270* sounds WAY to high kajtec1! I don't know for sure but I do have a temp probe in mine and it gets to 140 HWY and 190 Towing.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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Coincidentally I just measured my temp this afternoon. 148F after 30 mins of city/hwy, but it was at least 95F out.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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My 10,000 lb shoebox takes much bigger force to move than regular pickup, so would expect higher differential temperatures. Than my bearings and gears are breaking in, that is why I am monitoring the temperatures.
Different differential require different oil weight. My Dana takes synthetic 75-90 and I used Redline that is close to it.
 
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