Lost key, need ignition cylinder
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Junior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 79
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From: New England
Lost key, need ignition cylinder
Lost key to my 48 truck. Ignition cylinder is the three terminal type. I bypassed two wires with a toggle for now so I can start the truck. Where can I find a replacement cylinder with keys? Thought that would be easier and cheaper then having the cylinder go to a locksmith.
Thank you- J
Thank you- J
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
As far as easier, that's true - they are everywhere. But yo uwill probably end up buying a 56 version with the fourth terminal in the back for the starter position. You don't need to use it if yo have a starter button you want to keep. The other three terminals are the same as the one you have now.
Here's the switch at Carpenter and G&C - I'm sure all theother places carry them too:
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...p?c=1&cn=32-56 Car & Truck&s=20&sn=Switches&g=152&gn=IGNITION&t=1072&tn =Ignition Switch
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort
The top one is the 56 switch I mentioned for $18. You'll need the cylinder lock w/keys, bezel, and spacer to go with it.
the lower is a 48 type and is $60.
All in all, I would venture to say you could remove the switch and take it to a locksmith and have a key made for $20-$25!
Here's the switch at Carpenter and G&C - I'm sure all theother places carry them too:
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...p?c=1&cn=32-56 Car & Truck&s=20&sn=Switches&g=152&gn=IGNITION&t=1072&tn =Ignition Switch
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort
The top one is the 56 switch I mentioned for $18. You'll need the cylinder lock w/keys, bezel, and spacer to go with it.
the lower is a 48 type and is $60.
All in all, I would venture to say you could remove the switch and take it to a locksmith and have a key made for $20-$25!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 182
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From: southern MN
Given that your passenger door and ignition are keyed the same,,,,,, pull your passenger side door lock, and head to the hardware. buy a couple 4 key blanks to fit and a jewelers or hobby file set. something small with various shaped small files.
I do this kind of work on a large white cotton dish towel over a large carpet sample on my garage work desk so parts don't roll away or slide and are easily seen. Get some sort of compartmented container to put all the parts in. I use a 18 space egg container generally.
In a well lit, padded area, Take the door lock pins out IN ORDER, by removing the brass sliding cylinder pin cover CAREFULLY. there will be 5 sets of pins consisting of a small spring on top, WHICH WILL FLY if you're not careful taking the pin cover off, a top pin common to all 5 holes, and an individual cylinder pin. KEEP THESE CYLINDER PINS IN ORDER!!!! if you want to match your ignition. Color the teeth side of your new key blank with black sharpie, insert fully into the lock, and use a small awl or other sharp object to scratch the marker off the key where the pin hole is. I used a #4 finishing nail. Then just start carefully and slowly filing until you get each cylinder pin to drop FLUSH with the cylinder, NOT BELOW, allowing the cylinder to turn. Check your work constantly, file only small amounts between checks. Do one pin at a time.
I primarily used the small round file as it fit the profile of the round end of the cylinder pin best, but made a small groove with the edge of the square or triangle file as a guide where i scratched free the marker showing me where to cut . I slid the key into the empty cylinder and checked where my cuts were being made constantly to make sure I was cutting directly under each cylinder pin hole, and not off center or in the wrong spot. FYI : the rounded end of the cylinder pin faces down, touching the key. When you think you're close with each pin, drop in a common pin on top of the cylinder pin you are working to be sure you got the right height. The little "hat" on the common pins faces up, away from the cylinder pin, and the little "tit" sits on the top of the cylinder pin. put downward pressure on the common pin to simulate the spring pressure while turning the key. I used a flush cut toothpick to do this. It should hold the cylinder pin down into the grove you filed in the key, and yet allow the cylinder to turn free.
repeat for each 5 sets of cylinder and common pins until you have your key made. gently file smooth the ridges between cuts so the key glides in and out freely past the pins. CAREFULLY reassemble and test. Again, the cylinder springs WILL fly away if you're not VERY careful. (I've spent half an hour fishing around my work area with a magnet on a stick searching for one before) I just used my finger to hold the springs down while trying the key, before putting the brass cylinder hole cover back on. When it seems to work well, then replace the cover.
Once your new key passes the door lock test, try the new key in your ignition cylinder. Iffin ya done goodly, you got a new key that works both. head back to the hardware and get a few copies cut, making sure they work too. You probably will use at least 2 key blanks trying, maybe more. It's putzy as all getout, but if you got time, why not? lots of satisfaction doin it yourself.
AGAIN, BE CAREFUL so you don't loose them darn little springs, and keep the cylinder pins in order they came out.
Good luck, and have fun.
I do this kind of work on a large white cotton dish towel over a large carpet sample on my garage work desk so parts don't roll away or slide and are easily seen. Get some sort of compartmented container to put all the parts in. I use a 18 space egg container generally.
In a well lit, padded area, Take the door lock pins out IN ORDER, by removing the brass sliding cylinder pin cover CAREFULLY. there will be 5 sets of pins consisting of a small spring on top, WHICH WILL FLY if you're not careful taking the pin cover off, a top pin common to all 5 holes, and an individual cylinder pin. KEEP THESE CYLINDER PINS IN ORDER!!!! if you want to match your ignition. Color the teeth side of your new key blank with black sharpie, insert fully into the lock, and use a small awl or other sharp object to scratch the marker off the key where the pin hole is. I used a #4 finishing nail. Then just start carefully and slowly filing until you get each cylinder pin to drop FLUSH with the cylinder, NOT BELOW, allowing the cylinder to turn. Check your work constantly, file only small amounts between checks. Do one pin at a time.
I primarily used the small round file as it fit the profile of the round end of the cylinder pin best, but made a small groove with the edge of the square or triangle file as a guide where i scratched free the marker showing me where to cut . I slid the key into the empty cylinder and checked where my cuts were being made constantly to make sure I was cutting directly under each cylinder pin hole, and not off center or in the wrong spot. FYI : the rounded end of the cylinder pin faces down, touching the key. When you think you're close with each pin, drop in a common pin on top of the cylinder pin you are working to be sure you got the right height. The little "hat" on the common pins faces up, away from the cylinder pin, and the little "tit" sits on the top of the cylinder pin. put downward pressure on the common pin to simulate the spring pressure while turning the key. I used a flush cut toothpick to do this. It should hold the cylinder pin down into the grove you filed in the key, and yet allow the cylinder to turn free.
repeat for each 5 sets of cylinder and common pins until you have your key made. gently file smooth the ridges between cuts so the key glides in and out freely past the pins. CAREFULLY reassemble and test. Again, the cylinder springs WILL fly away if you're not VERY careful. (I've spent half an hour fishing around my work area with a magnet on a stick searching for one before) I just used my finger to hold the springs down while trying the key, before putting the brass cylinder hole cover back on. When it seems to work well, then replace the cover.
Once your new key passes the door lock test, try the new key in your ignition cylinder. Iffin ya done goodly, you got a new key that works both. head back to the hardware and get a few copies cut, making sure they work too. You probably will use at least 2 key blanks trying, maybe more. It's putzy as all getout, but if you got time, why not? lots of satisfaction doin it yourself.
AGAIN, BE CAREFUL so you don't loose them darn little springs, and keep the cylinder pins in order they came out.
Good luck, and have fun.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
1948/50 all trucks Ignition Switch / Cylinder w/keys
The ignition switch did not come with the cylinder and keys as original, two separate parts.
A key shop can pick the cylinder, cut a new key.
If y'all buy a new cylinder w/keys, the key won't match the door lock cylinder(s).
6A11572B .. Ignition Switch-less Cylinder w/Keys / Obsolete
Fits: 1948/50 all trucks // 1946/50 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars / 1951 Ford/Merc Station Wagons.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has FIVE = 800-543-4959.
No Ford Dealer, no other obsolete parts vendor has any.
------------------------------------------------------
1A11582A (replaced 8A11582A) .. Ignition Cylinder w/Keys / Obsolete
Fits: 1948/50 all trucks / 1949/50 Ford Passenger Cars / 1953/55 P Series Parcel Delivery.
No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
Carpenter has both of these parts listed in his 1948/56 truck repro parts catalog.
Julie: Carpenter's 1948/56 catalog lists the ignition cylinder as 8A11582A = the WRONG part number.
A key shop can pick the cylinder, cut a new key.
If y'all buy a new cylinder w/keys, the key won't match the door lock cylinder(s).
6A11572B .. Ignition Switch-less Cylinder w/Keys / Obsolete
Fits: 1948/50 all trucks // 1946/50 Ford/Merc Passenger Cars / 1951 Ford/Merc Station Wagons.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has FIVE = 800-543-4959.
No Ford Dealer, no other obsolete parts vendor has any.
------------------------------------------------------
1A11582A (replaced 8A11582A) .. Ignition Cylinder w/Keys / Obsolete
Fits: 1948/50 all trucks / 1949/50 Ford Passenger Cars / 1953/55 P Series Parcel Delivery.
No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
Carpenter has both of these parts listed in his 1948/56 truck repro parts catalog.
Julie: Carpenter's 1948/56 catalog lists the ignition cylinder as 8A11582A = the WRONG part number.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
That doesn't suprise me Bill - they seem to make up ther own numbers more often than not.
Also they have a bad habit (as do many of the repro parts houses) of listing parts as 48-56 because they will work, not because they are the original.
The earlier ignition switches used in 48-50 were significantly different that the 56 switches - although from a standpoint of function, they mount differently, but they work electrically.
I'm not a big DC fan anyway.
Also they have a bad habit (as do many of the repro parts houses) of listing parts as 48-56 because they will work, not because they are the original.
The earlier ignition switches used in 48-50 were significantly different that the 56 switches - although from a standpoint of function, they mount differently, but they work electrically.
I'm not a big DC fan anyway.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Hot AZ (Phoenix Valley)
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