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Sam, Good info, thanks. Thinking about the 3/16" rod at the back of the hood, why does it still grab the rubber lacing if the edge is smooth? If one shortens up the hood lip do you think that would help? Or even move the lacing a little bit forward on the cowl?
Cmoritz, well the fender rubbers actually set the front edge of the hood level with the fender up and down for me while the latch kept the gaping equal between the fenders and the hood. With the round stock in the back, does it give enough strength to the hood as it forms to the cowling? I'm thinking if it does then I might just install some rubber bumpers on the hood to protect the paint. But seeing as I got the gap at the cowl and hood to be 1/4", feel with that gaping I should be successful with the round stock over the cowling rubber (a little more room than with the usual 1/2" gap)...time will tell.
This hood has a lot of time into it and still needs a whole bunch more. Someone once told me that the body work would take the time and the chassis the money! I now believe!!
Yes!,.The round bar stiffened things up considerably..I even thought about adding something between the hoop and the bar at the rear lip...but fiqured I might quit while I was ahead...
Gather up some material and give it a try, I used a torch on a couple of the smaller bends and let it cool by itself...fit the material to the cowl, then see how it fits to the hood.Your hood to cowl gap doesn't look bad by any stretch, ..in fact, if you have 1/4" gap..you may want to call it quits too LoL!
I'm not sure what you meant by"hood the hoods form the cowling" ??
Bodywork was new to me also..but rewarding, and it gave me plenty of opportunities to just have a frostie and ponder...my favorite pastime
Sam, Good info, thanks. Thinking about the 3/16" rod at the back of the hood, why does it still grab the rubber lacing if the edge is smooth? If one shortens up the hood lip do you think that would help? Or even move the lacing a little bit forward on the cowl?
...
I don't know.. I didn't test this enough before paint, and can't fiddle with it now.
and looking at the last pic below it reminds me that the hood lip sits DOWN in the trough behind the lacing. as the hood 'just' lifts then has to come forward, the lacing gets in the way, no matter what..
one from underneath as it sat on the sawhorses as we worked the hood surface.
and another as we setup to paint the inside of the hood.
and the last from the side after paint
Thanks Sam! That sure was quick! I like the anti-oil-canning straps!. I may have to stea...I mean borrow those ideas.
np.. we played with a bunch of different shapes.. some looked ugly,
some where heavy. this one worked the best and doesn't stand out
but you also can't use it if you get the polished stainless kit.
I'm not sure what you meant by"hood the hoods form the cowling" ??B
Should have read: With the round stock in the back, does it give enough strength to the hood as it forms to the cowling? (cut and paste issue) This is if you don't use the cowl lacing for the hood to hold its shape?
...looked at your gallery, nice work on the truck!
one from underneath as it sat on the sawhorses as we worked the hood surface.
and another as we setup to paint the inside of the hood.
and the last from the side after paint
Sam
Great job on the hood supports and good idea...I was wondering how I was going to get all the loose metal tight may have to borrow this also!
Keep these tips coming Sam!!
np.. we played with a bunch of different shapes.. some looked ugly,
some where heavy. this one worked the best and doesn't stand out
but you also can't use it if you get the polished stainless kit.
sam
I have the plain steel kit. I can't decide if the roller guides are stainless or not. I bought the cheapie version from Mid-Fifties.
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