Front Suspension Conversion ?
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From: Anderson, SC
The clamping area of a bolt is the un-threaded portion. A proper length bolt will have un-threaded length long enough to ENTIRELY go through the shear area to the point a washer may be required to allow the nut to completly tighten down without bottoming out.
For the race car we actually end up cutting off part of the threaded portion to get the lengths correct.
I'll try and find a article to post on this, but it is really important on suspension components.
For the race car we actually end up cutting off part of the threaded portion to get the lengths correct.
I'll try and find a article to post on this, but it is really important on suspension components.
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From: Anderson, SC
Oddly, retorqueing is not always a good idea, especially with high end fasteners.
The torque specifications are calculated to provide the optimum 'stretch' of the fastener which gives the fastener a sort of spring loading, holding the parts together. High end fasteners are only designed to be 'stretched' a finite number of times (sometimes once) and re-torqueing can actually make them weaker as they can be 'overstretched'.
Yes, I re-tighten as well but I've learned not to re-use critical fasteners in the higher grades. The lower grades will keep stretching till the cows come home making them better for highly maintenanced items.
The torque specifications are calculated to provide the optimum 'stretch' of the fastener which gives the fastener a sort of spring loading, holding the parts together. High end fasteners are only designed to be 'stretched' a finite number of times (sometimes once) and re-torqueing can actually make them weaker as they can be 'overstretched'.
Yes, I re-tighten as well but I've learned not to re-use critical fasteners in the higher grades. The lower grades will keep stretching till the cows come home making them better for highly maintenanced items.
I should find a bolt that has the unthreaded portion going all the way through both frame pieces, and make sure that the unthreaded portion fits pretty snug in the hole at the same time....correct?
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: 92592
What type of bolt would be recommended for this type of thing? Grade 8...or is that overkill? I really don't think anything would be overkill myself. As a matter of fact, tell me what would be overkill and that's what I'll use. And once I know the proper type of bolt to use, let me make sure I have the rest correct:
I should find a bolt that has the unthreaded portion going all the way through both frame pieces, and make sure that the unthreaded portion fits pretty snug in the hole at the same time....correct?
I should find a bolt that has the unthreaded portion going all the way through both frame pieces, and make sure that the unthreaded portion fits pretty snug in the hole at the same time....correct?
You'll probably want to re-drill the holes to a dimension that is close to the bolts you select and to insure that they are round after removing rivets. You also need to raduis the edges of the holes slightly so there are not edges putting stress on the shafts of the bolts.
I'll find an article with pictures to show what I mean.
Grade 8 would be a absolute minimum for me.
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From: Anderson, SC
Ok I'm gonna post a new thread about doing the dash swap because I noticed one thing that might be a bit of a problem, so if anyone here has any insight on that then it'll be titled "Dash Swap" on the main page.
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From: North Carolina
Agreed. I would use something like this:
Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 3/4-10 x 3, PK 20 - Hex Head Cap Screws - Screws - Fasteners : Grainger Industrial Supply
Just make sure the unthreaded length is correct. I would also use the super-locktite, you know, the perminant stuff.
Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 3/4-10 x 3, PK 20 - Hex Head Cap Screws - Screws - Fasteners : Grainger Industrial Supply
Just make sure the unthreaded length is correct. I would also use the super-locktite, you know, the perminant stuff.
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From: Anderson, SC
Agreed. I would use something like this:
Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 3/4-10 x 3, PK 20 - Hex Head Cap Screws - Screws - Fasteners : Grainger Industrial Supply
Just make sure the unthreaded length is correct. I would also use the super-locktite, you know, the perminant stuff.
Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 3/4-10 x 3, PK 20 - Hex Head Cap Screws - Screws - Fasteners : Grainger Industrial Supply
Just make sure the unthreaded length is correct. I would also use the super-locktite, you know, the perminant stuff.
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From: Long Island USA
Stainless moves too much. Do not use stainless on anything that takes continuous on-off stress (or whatever the engineering types call it).
It's good on exhaust manifolds and such, but load-bearing things where it wasn't designed to use stainless in the first place, it's a big no-no.
It's good on exhaust manifolds and such, but load-bearing things where it wasn't designed to use stainless in the first place, it's a big no-no.
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Cargo Master
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From: Lubbock
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 322
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From: Beaumont Tx
This guy did it on his 2001. Shoot him a message, I'm sure he'd be glad to help you.
My truck with new Rize lift - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
here is how it looks now that he lowered it:
My truck with new Rize lift - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
here is how it looks now that he lowered it:
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From: Anderson, SC
i never believe anyone that works at a wrecking yard.... i always want to see it in person. ive seen to many yeah it will fits and then you get it home. the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface (wms) on the 99-04 is different to the 05+ this is redily apparent when you see a pre 05 truck with 05+ wheels. front and rear axles. you also know the 05+ axles require 17" or larger wheels right? with all that said why do you want to go to coil sprung ront suspension? the ride is a little better and the turning radius is better but not in my opinion enough to justify swapping from leafs to coils..... but then again maybe im lazy
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Beaumont Tx
Another thing to consider is Trevor at Precision Metal Fab is coming out with a kit to convert your 99-04 truck to a 4-link with coil springs using your 99-04 axles. Shoot him an email:
HOME - Precision Metal Fab
HOME - Precision Metal Fab
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
This guy did it on his 2001. Shoot him a message, I'm sure he'd be glad to help you.
My truck with new Rize lift - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
here is how it looks now that he lowered it:
My truck with new Rize lift - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
here is how it looks now that he lowered it:
Thanks for the info though man.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Lubbock
how are the wheel options better? they use the same bolt pattern? i used to have 35" tires on my 04 with out a lift or leveling kit and it rubbed just like guys with the 05+ trucks. not trying to tell you not to do it at all. some times prodjects dont work out as well as planned though. also there is not death wobble issue with the leaf sprung trucks. i actually had that issue the other day. ended up having a nail in the tire and one tire had like 20 psi in it. it was a exciting ride though
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
Another thing to consider is Trevor at Precision Metal Fab is coming out with a kit to convert your 99-04 truck to a 4-link with coil springs using your 99-04 axles. Shoot him an email:
HOME - Precision Metal Fab
HOME - Precision Metal Fab