Front Suspension Conversion ?
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
You and me both. But as soon as I get the word that this thing as actually being totaled this project is underway.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: SE PA.
the frames arn't boxed, and the rears 05 and up are wider you should use both the front and rear rears so they will be matched, the 05 and ups have a nicer choice of wheels anyway. i am sure that all the frames are the same with the exceptions of a few holes. good luck on the project.
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From: Anderson, SC
But anyways, I think whether the front axle dimensions are the same or not, I will have to change them out because the mounts for the radius arms are actually made into the front axle. However, the question was answered a while ago as to whether or not it could be done when rudedogii said that Fabtech made a leaf to coil conversion kit. That means they can be changed. But now I have another question....can the dash be completely changed out? Speedometer, switches, radio....everything between the powerpoint and the light switch? If so, that would be pretty sweet cause then my truck would be just like an 05-07 outside AND in.
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From: Garden City, KS
But anyways, I think whether the front axle dimensions are the same or not, I will have to change them out because the mounts for the radius arms are actually made into the front axle. However, the question was answered a while ago as to whether or not it could be done when rudedogii said that Fabtech made a leaf to coil conversion kit. That means they can be changed. But now I have another question....can the dash be completely changed out? Speedometer, switches, radio....everything between the powerpoint and the light switch? If so, that would be pretty sweet cause then my truck would be just like an 05-07 outside AND in.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Anderson, SC
Yeah, I'm at least gonna try it, but I didn't know since the 05-07's are a little bit more computer ran than the 03-04's. But compared to swapping out the suspension, checking the dash out should be super simple to at least take it apart and determine whether it could be done or not.
But I thought of another question about the suspension stuff. Everything is on there with huge rivets...is there any reason why bolts couldn't be used? I mean is there a reason why ford didn't use bolts other than the fact that it was probably just a lot easier for them to use rivets on an assembly line?
But I thought of another question about the suspension stuff. Everything is on there with huge rivets...is there any reason why bolts couldn't be used? I mean is there a reason why ford didn't use bolts other than the fact that it was probably just a lot easier for them to use rivets on an assembly line?
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: 92592
Yes, bolts loosen; rivets rarely do. The riveting process expands the diameter of the rivet to fill the hole making shear strength extremely high.
If you use bolts, make sure you make the diameter dimensions tight, use the proper clamping length and radius ALL of the hole edges to reduce stress risers.
I'd use Mil-spec fastners including radius washers under the bolt heads is necessary. And only use them one torque (stretch) cycle.
If you use bolts, make sure you make the diameter dimensions tight, use the proper clamping length and radius ALL of the hole edges to reduce stress risers.
I'd use Mil-spec fastners including radius washers under the bolt heads is necessary. And only use them one torque (stretch) cycle.
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
Yes, bolts loosen; rivets rarely do. The riveting process expands the diameter of the rivet to fill the hole making shear strength extremely high.
If you use bolts, make sure you make the diameter dimensions tight, use the proper clamping length and radius ALL of the hole edges to reduce stress risers.
I'd use Mil-spec fastners including radius washers under the bolt heads is necessary. And only use them one torque (stretch) cycle.
If you use bolts, make sure you make the diameter dimensions tight, use the proper clamping length and radius ALL of the hole edges to reduce stress risers.
I'd use Mil-spec fastners including radius washers under the bolt heads is necessary. And only use them one torque (stretch) cycle.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Garden City, KS
Just remember, though... if you were to buy any of the coil-over conversion kits, your hangers and brackets would be bolted on. I would think as long as you use those grade 10-point-somethings with locking washers and nuts, you should be good to go! And, if it'd make you feel better, you could just retorque the bolts whenever you service the truck.
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
Just remember, though... if you were to buy any of the coil-over conversion kits, your hangers and brackets would be bolted on. I would think as long as you use those grade 10-point-somethings with locking washers and nuts, you should be good to go! And, if it'd make you feel better, you could just retorque the bolts whenever you service the truck.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: 92592
The clamping area of a bolt is the un-threaded portion. A proper length bolt will have un-threaded length long enough to ENTIRELY go through the shear area to the point a washer may be required to allow the nut to completly tighten down without bottoming out.
For the race car we actually end up cutting off part of the threaded portion to get the lengths correct.
I'll try and find a article to post on this, but it is really important on suspension components.
For the race car we actually end up cutting off part of the threaded portion to get the lengths correct.
I'll try and find a article to post on this, but it is really important on suspension components.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 560
Likes: 3
From: 92592
Just remember, though... if you were to buy any of the coil-over conversion kits, your hangers and brackets would be bolted on. I would think as long as you use those grade 10-point-somethings with locking washers and nuts, you should be good to go! And, if it'd make you feel better, you could just retorque the bolts whenever you service the truck.
The torque specifications are calculated to provide the optimum 'stretch' of the fastener which gives the fastener a sort of spring loading, holding the parts together. High end fasteners are only designed to be 'stretched' a finite number of times (sometimes once) and re-torqueing can actually make them weaker as they can be 'overstretched'.
Yes, I re-tighten as well but I've learned not to re-use critical fasteners in the higher grades. The lower grades will keep stretching till the cows come home making them better for highly maintenanced items.