Dwon Pipe Removal
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Ok after many swear words and 3 bits later the dang thing is OUT and in three pieces haha.... Had a bit of trouble getting it down and out but with a some small persuasion (250 pounds of pi$$ed of redneck dangling from a pip) it decided to let go and out she flew directly into my nose haha pay back it a biatch.... Now I am guessing I need to modify the fire wall a bit to get the 3"er in there... There is a lip about half way down looks to be where the firewall meets floor pan I am not sure (black as coal out) if I need to just bend it or trim it with with my newly acquired power tool lmao...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Is that some kind of sex ed picture or a spreader lol? I don't have a fancy tool like that and I don't think I can get enough leverage on it to bend it by hand... Would trimming it back hurt or cause me to lose cabin pressure and take on water?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Check fit before bending flange
Before attacking the flange, check to see if you need to dent the firewall to gain clearance for the upper part of the pipe. Most trucks have adequate clearance between the cylinder head/block and the firewall, a few (like mine) don't. Seems to be a matter of where the cab and engine are on the frame relative to assembly tolerances.
You should be able to check clearance by taking the top half of the downpipe, mounting on the turbo, and seeing if there's enough room. If so, then all you need to do is bend the flange back so the bottom piece fits; most directions say to slice the flange in a couple of places so it rolls back nicely.
If the top of the downpipe doesn't have enough clearance, you'll likely want to dent in the firewall before bending the flange. I needed to dent my firewall about 1/4" or so, and it's easier to do before bending the flange. I didn't figure that out until afterwards.
If you need to dent the firewall, a short air hammer with a short blunt chisel is a reasonable way to beat enough of a dent in the firewall. I tried portapower and hammer & blunt chisel, and they didn't work.
Then bend the flange back. Vice grips to start, then hand sledge and a big punch (or piece of pipe) should work.
You should be able to check clearance by taking the top half of the downpipe, mounting on the turbo, and seeing if there's enough room. If so, then all you need to do is bend the flange back so the bottom piece fits; most directions say to slice the flange in a couple of places so it rolls back nicely.
If the top of the downpipe doesn't have enough clearance, you'll likely want to dent in the firewall before bending the flange. I needed to dent my firewall about 1/4" or so, and it's easier to do before bending the flange. I didn't figure that out until afterwards.
If you need to dent the firewall, a short air hammer with a short blunt chisel is a reasonable way to beat enough of a dent in the firewall. I tried portapower and hammer & blunt chisel, and they didn't work.
Then bend the flange back. Vice grips to start, then hand sledge and a big punch (or piece of pipe) should work.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
The tool in that pic is an attachment to a porta power. It's a hydraulic tool that can be used in a bunch of different ways. They can be had at Harbor Freight and come in real handy when you do use them. you can probably smack it with a hammer or something. you just gotta get that pinch weld(seam where floor meets firewall) to lay down so the pipe will fit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Cut the pinch weld in two places. On each side of where the pipe will fit. Then just bend the pinch weld down flat.
Only cut the pinch weld deep enough to the fire wall. Does that make sense?
I used a small hammer to beat the weld down. You can use a punch or 2X4 or pipe if you like. A long pry bar works good also.
Only cut the pinch weld deep enough to the fire wall. Does that make sense?
I used a small hammer to beat the weld down. You can use a punch or 2X4 or pipe if you like. A long pry bar works good also.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
thanks I am gonna bend that down and hope that I don't need to bend my firewall.... I think the top pipe should go in no problems but its being stubborn and it got dark maybe today will see better results lol...
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Well it's in woohoo with a little beating and re-fitting of the system it's it but slightly touching the crossmember it doesn't look like it bound up just restiv on it.... Bs word of caution the MBRP kits are apparently not truck specific for this year ford I had to cut the extension pipe to fit and the hangers that were I included we no where near the correct lengths ( the T hanger for the muffler was about 3 inches to short my sledge helped it out). I would suggest a different system or if MBRP has a system I did t see that is made to bolt go that route cause this 4" exhaust sounds amazing.... My truck let a burp out on the first exceleration (small miss) and cleaned up and is running perfect.... I may have a small leak since I can hear a serious rumble that's sounds up near the front unless the 3" DP allows more exhaust noise to be heard which I hope is what it is.... Well I'm gonna drive her for a bit and check my clamps and see if I have any blow by.. Thanks for all your help and I'll post a few pics when I get the chance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 2
Ok...ok...not going to hold in the secret anymore.....My first time doing a Down pipe, it was awful! figured id need to make one cut...yea right! Well i got one cut a snapped my blade. Soooo after a half hour searching my shop, i found a dewalt blade. Which is their "Rescue blade" well it was about 18" long. And longggg story short i cut my friggin up pipe in half LMAO! Dont know how i did it, but i did. Soooo i had to stop cutting and bring out the mig. I still have no idea how i got the welder in there....Ive gotten better with them.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,818
Likes: 1
From: Avilla, IN
I'm halfway through doing mine right now.
I jacked up the truck by the frame, then removed the tire. Next I put one of those tire-changing-pry-bars through the fender/frame area and started to bend the seam in the right direction with that. Then I got the porta power + spreader tool and pushed against the old DP to bend the seam the rest of the way over.
But what do you know, a shop that has a lathe, mill, drill press, porta power, very large metal chop saw, torch, plasma cutter, arc and mig welders, bench grinder, and almost all the dewalt power tools a man could want, etc., doesn't have a functional reciprocating saw or even a hack saw.
So now i'm back at my house, trying to build up the ambition to finish this project.
Do you have to remove the pipe that contains the EBPV to gut the EBPV?
I jacked up the truck by the frame, then removed the tire. Next I put one of those tire-changing-pry-bars through the fender/frame area and started to bend the seam in the right direction with that. Then I got the porta power + spreader tool and pushed against the old DP to bend the seam the rest of the way over.
But what do you know, a shop that has a lathe, mill, drill press, porta power, very large metal chop saw, torch, plasma cutter, arc and mig welders, bench grinder, and almost all the dewalt power tools a man could want, etc., doesn't have a functional reciprocating saw or even a hack saw.
So now i'm back at my house, trying to build up the ambition to finish this project.
Do you have to remove the pipe that contains the EBPV to gut the EBPV?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
No you don't look at the picture posted a bit earlier.... you need to cut the DP in two places and once done it comes out very easy... I took a piece of metal (hand saw for wood) and placed it over the valve cover and exhaust manifold so I didn't damage them and went to cutting with my skil saw and about 10 minutes later it was out.....
