Okay let me make sure I am understanding this. The oem ( the stock version that came from the factory) has/had a hot button and will start without the key?

 

LOL...My 55 did too. But it had a FLOOR start switch. So you had to be careful getting in or out not to step on that!

I did that - once! I had one foot on the floor board and one on the running board. Truck bolted forward about a foot and I ended up on the street on my rear! Even the Russian Judge gave me a 9.8 for that move!

I moved the button to a "less accessable" place!

EDIT NOTE: Every time I see that TV Commercial where they show the "Luxury" of the "Button Start System" (like it's some type of German Engineered new fangled convenience item) I have to laugh!

 

I keep reading that i need to switch the wires on the back of my amp meter. There isn't any wires "connected" to the back of the amp meter its self. It just runs through a metal "D or loop" on the back of it. There is however a board with B, A, H on it mounted to the back of the entire gauge. If switch the 2 yellow wires will this reverse the polarities and allow the gauge to read correctly?

 

in the case of Fords; reverse the loop of wire on the back of the gauge

I copied this from the instructions from my 1st post. I don't know if you checked out the link, but this guy has his own company, designs and sells 6 and 12 volt alternators for these applications and wrote a 6 to 12 volt conversion guide.

Mitch J

 

Nope don't switch any of that stuff.

If you have converted to 12 volt Negative Ground you will need to run the wire running through the "Ammeter Induction Loop" so that it runs through in the opposite direction it did with the 6 volt Positive Ground.

On 6 volt, it should run through from the "BATT" post of the 15 amp circuit breaker (the two little sugar cube sized thingys screwed onto your instrument panel with the "Hs" "Bs" and "As" printed on the insulating paper) through the loop from right to left (passenger side to drivers side), then out to the Starter Solenoid Battery post.

The image below is a mirror image. IOW it is flip flopped left to right and top to bottom. But it doesn't matter here.





If you have converted to 12 volt Negative Ground that wire needs to flow from what ever you are using to distribute power now - whatever your generator feeds (as the circuit breakers are for 6 volt and shouldn't be used); through the loop from left to right (drivers side to passenger side) Then out to the starter solenoid.

Long story short - if your ammeter shows a discharge while your system is actually charging, find the closest end of the wire running through the loop, disconnect it, and run it through the loop in the opposite direction it was running before. REMEMBER TO MAKE A NOTE OF WHAT DIRECTION IT IS WHEN YOU PULL IT OUT.

Make sure your battery ground cable is disconnected when you do this.

Final note, if you have converted to 12 volt negative ground and simply ran your generator regulator battery wire over to the starter solenoid, or worse, directly to the battery like on a GM, then your gauge won't work.

Ford Power flow runs from Generator - to distribution out (circuit breakers or fuse holders) - then on to the starter solenoid post that the battery is hooked up to. The generator and the battery are hooked together on that single circuit wire. But the distributed load point (out to all your electrical stuff) must also be on the wire - on the generator side of the ammeter - with the battery on the other side of the ammeter, in order for it to show flow from the generator (charge) or the battery (discharge) correctly.

Simple, right? Have fun!

 

No, only the starter motor will turn over without a key, the truck will not startup and run because it DOES take the key to turn on the ignition switch which supplies power to the coil and fires the spark plugs!

Also, I saw the alternators link you posted and it was great. But there are MANY different types of alternators and some of them function VERY differently (ask Sam - "sdetweil" how long it took to figure his out - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...confusion.html). Also Power Distribution/Indicator Type are a critical part of Alternator wiring - and there seem to be many different types as well so it needs to be looked at and considered as well. Seems like every situation is different.

 

You know now that I think about it, I do remember trying to start my 51 (with the button) and it wouldn't start. I finally noticed I had not turned the key on. Completely forgot about that. Yeah, I have the conversion book from the site I posted, and it covers several different options to include the Gm one wire, and Ford alternators with external regulators.

Mitch J

 

Once again, i found myself with way too much time on my hands the other day. After having to replace some power door lock relays in my van for the alarm system, i came up with a way to use a relay in my '53s starting system. I found I had a newer style ignition switch with the center momentary "start" post, as well as the always hot starter button. As the starter button just goes to ground, you cant wire it to the start post of the ignition as Julie says. What i did was take the ignition start post to power the relay. turn the key to "start" and it closes the relay. the relay, when energized, then takes the starter wire from the solenoid and sends it to ground, spinning the starter. as i had a 5 terminal relay, i used the normally closed post of the relay to the old start button, so i can use either the old button, or the "start" position on the ignition switch. Just don't wire the normally closed post of the relay to the old starter button and you wont have the oops of accidentally spinning the starter with the button. If you dont have a "start" post on your ignition switch, just power the relay off the "On" or "run" side of the ignition switch.

One could always just put a single pole, single throw switch in the line between solenoid and start button. flip the switch on or the starter button wont work. Just have to remember to turn the switch back off.

To quote Julie, "Have i confused you yet?"

 

No not at all, but I'm hearing other brain gears grinding all over the US tonight - LOL!

Other food for thought. On my 51 I installed a 56 Ingnition switch which has the center "Key Start" post and position with the key. I actually wanted the starter button and wanted it hot to pre oil as I mentioned earlier.

I use the "Start" position and post on the ignition switch to complete the power out to my lineal actuator that raises and lowers my full front tilt! That way you need the key to open up the "hood."

 

I am now cursed (tongue in cheek) with 6 more relays to find uses for. 4 - 5 post singles, and 2 doubles. such a terrible burden!

 

Kinda wondering why you are using relays anyway????? A personal preference/fun thing?

The only two pieces of stock gear on a 54 that would need one are the horns and Overdrive if installed. Maybe aftermarket - electric fans if installed

 

like i said, some days i just have way too much time on my hands. my mind may be in left field, but it's still thinkin up stuff to keep me busy and amused. *I* thought using the relay like i did was pretty snam dazzy meself. now if i can find the new rattle/jingle that turned in to a rattle/thwap, then the sound of something breaking and getting bounced around, and back to the rattle/jingle/thunk when the truck is rolling,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I been crawling around on and under my poor beastie all afternoon lookin.