After buying a farm-find '51 4 years ago and turning into a show winner, I ran across a '37 model 79 I HAD TO HAVE. Frame somewhat restored, mechanical brakes rebuilt, engine rebuilt but never started, cab near perfect and I have extra parts running out of my ears. But given I know the '51, some things are very different and could use some help.

1. I have an oil filter that exactly matches the left head bolt pattern. I find the same two ports on the back of the engine like the '51; sender and 'to' filter. But for the life of me there is not 'return'. No port on the pan. No port on the fuel pump stand. I understand it might have been an option back in the day? Any help on how I plumb the filter I have? Okay to mount it with the head studs?

2. I left the '51 6 volts, but also gave it a 12 volt backup for starting and modern (retro) radio. Thinking I would just go 12 volt on this one. Local, respected gen shop says it can't be converted (no armature available). If it is just changing field coils I can find those. I am finding alot of conflicting information. I get the 3 wire gens. These 1-wires not so much. Just change the field coils and use a 50's voltage regulator and move on?

3. Rear end: I cant find any markings. I 'think' it is a 4:44. The one thing I don't like about my stock '51 is the rpms at cruise speed (55). Should I consider a T-5 or update the rear end. Or just change out the ring and pinion to something 3:24 ish?

Any experience with any 35-37 on driveability? Front suspension, power steering. And I live in Texas, so air conditioning wouldn't suck.

Working to get it running just so I can run it around the block on raw seat springs to get a feel with what I have, but would really appreciate any input from those that 'been-there, done-that'.

Thanks.

Mark

 

Oh man both trucks are very nice! Keep the pics coming. I am sure you will get some good answers here. As for the rear end I had 4-11's in my panel and swapped them out for 3.54's. Great for cruising at highway speeds but a bit much for around town. Might go with something a bit higher and be just fine.

 

Thanks for the input. I'm looking to win any burnout contests, but even at my mid 50's I don't drive 55 ;-) Rather have high-end than torque. Maybe a 3.78? I can fix anything I have a picture for, but don't have any experience with banjo rear ends.

 

No wonder you had to buy that '37! What a beautiful truck. I like your '51 too.

 

Nice score. I can tell the new one is going to look as good if not better than the old one. Or the older one than the younger one. Whatever, that's two nice trucks you got there.

 

Nice trucks!

1. I have an oil filter that exactly matches the left head bolt pattern. I find the same two ports on the back of the engine like the '51; sender and 'to' filter. But for the life of me there is not 'return'. No port on the pan. No port on the fuel pump stand. I understand it might have been an option back in the day? Any help on how I plumb the filter I have? Okay to mount it with the head studs?
The oil filter you have came out in 1940, but looks good on the earlier flatheads too. The stock filter was a horizontal canister that was replaced each oil change. There are a very few NOS units of that out there but not a real option for anything but a trailer queen. Ford made a timing cover with a threaded bung on the driver's side for the oil return line. You can find one of those or find a dip stick tube boss with a drilled return line bung. Either will work for you with a bit of hand bent tubing.

2. I left the '51 6 volts, but also gave it a 12 volt backup for starting and modern (retro) radio. Thinking I would just go 12 volt on this one. Local, respected gen shop says it can't be converted (no armature available). If it is just changing field coils I can find those. I am finding alot of conflicting information. I get the 3 wire gens. These 1-wires not so much. Just change the field coils and use a 50's voltage regulator and move on?
Yep, just change the field coils and run a 12V regulator. Be careful of the regulator, I have seen several new ones that didn't regulate worth a darn. They probably could be adjusted but I haven't tried. I had a few used ones that I kept installing on my stuff but ran out... If you don't run A/C there is really no reason to change to 12V. There are good options for head light bulbs using the stock lights now.

3. Rear end: I cant find any markings. I 'think' it is a 4:44. The one thing I don't like about my stock '51 is the rpms at cruise speed (55). Should I consider a T-5 or update the rear end. Or just change out the ring and pinion to something 3:24 ish?
Are you sure you have 4.44 gears now? Those came stock in 60 HP trucks and yours has the 85 motor in it (at least it does now...). The very best combination in my opinion is a 3.78 ratio combined with a 36% Mitchell overdrive. The 36% is actually a 26% unit so the gearing works out really well. I find it funny that the old torque tube drive pickups are easier to gear up to highway speeds than the later open drive trucks. Please don't install a T-5, they take a large part of the vintage truck feel out of the driving experience, and you have to cut on your frame to make it fit. Also, making a T-5 work with a torque tube means either custom making a torque tube T-5 transmission, or converting your truck to open drive. I have attached a spreadsheet I put together on the subject (can you tell I like gearing?)

I think the stock truck drives fine. They are a bit tight for me since I am 6' 2", but my 5' 8" father loves the fit. The drive fine, no need for power steering. The stock brakes work very well if they don't have worn out parts and are adjusted correctly. If you get really frustrated with them you can convert to hydraulics. There is a company that makes the few parts needed to bolt in 40 Ford brakes with no cutting anywhere.

Yes, A/C is nice in Texas. The smallest under dash unit you can find will cool that little cab just fine. The installation can get interesting since there really isn't much room for any of the components anywhere.

Can we get some more pictures?

 

Thanks Fred! Very helpful info. Not sure how to find out what rear-end I have. Can't find any markings on the case so I assume there was a tag bolted on that didn't survive.

I plan on having it running in the next few days and taking it for a spin around the block. Been through all the mechanicals. I'll post some more pics in the next couple of days.

Mark

 

There is no tag on the axle. There should be a pair of numbers stamped into the bottom rib on the center of the axle. You have to crawl under the truck and look up at the axle. The two numbers are the ring and pinion tooth count installed in the center section at the factory. If you have a 3.78 ratio you should find a 9 and a 34. This is assuming that the axle ratio hasn't been changed in the axle during the last 75+ years.

 

Thanks Fred. Going to have Jr. get up under and look. My old eyes have scoured and scoured and I can't find any numbers. Frame has been painted (by hand; by a 5th grader) so I guess it's possible they filled in the numbers with paint. Seems unlikely. Pics as requested. I think its all original...

 

That is looking REALLY nice. Great attention to detail!

 

Nice pictures.

I like the look of the overload springs on the rear axle.

The stamping on the axle can be faint, and yours is probably filled in with paint. You may get to scrub or sand off some paint to find it. Here is a picture for reference:



If you can't find the numbers, or if you don't trust them, then you can just check the ratio. It is fairly easy before you put a radiator in front of your engine. Jack up one rear wheel (not both) and block the other so the truck can't move. Put the transmission in high gear. Mark the crank pulley on the motor with chalk and mark the raised rear wheel with chalk. Put a socket on the crank pulley and spin the crank clockwise. Have someone watch the rear wheel while you watch the crank pulley. When the rear wheel has spun two revolutions stop spinning the crank. The number of revs of the crank is your axle ratio. Just under 4 1/2 revs you have a 4.44, just over 4 revs you have a 4.11, just over 3 3/4 revs you have a 3.78, and just over 3 1/2 revs you have a 3.54. Give it a try and let us know what you find.

 

Who made the gas tank? I think it is the best one I have seen back there with no mods.

 

Well JR (younger eyes) finally found them. Hard to read but the '4' and '9' are quite definable, so I'm guess its a 40 to 9 / 4.44. Going to do the crank/tire count this weekend to be sure.

Got it to sputter and cough last weekend. Points weren't correct but new ones on way. Should get it running good this weekend.

@newold46... It came with the car and was brand new, with the except of the mouse condominium inside.


9 at the top, 4 at the bottom, messy in between.

 

YIPPEE. Its a 3:78 according to the crank revs. Big relief. THANKS!

 

Hidden under the paint somewhere is a 3. 34 divided by 9 gives you a 3.78 axle. In my opinion it is the nicest overall ratio. Dives nicely around the the neighborhood, around town, and up to 55-60. Faster than that and you want an overdrive.

One trick if you are going into your distributor: take the rotor off the shaft and wrap the shaft with electrical tape. The air gap between the rotor and the shaft isn't quite enough resistance to keep a good coil with a hot spark from shorting through the rotor to the shaft.