12 Volt Conversion (I've read the articles)
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Minnesota
12 Volt Conversion (I've read the articles)
As you positive ground guys know my 1950 F1 is positive ground. For those of you that switched from a 6 volt positive ground to a 12 volt negative ground does anything run backwards? Were there any hiccups that I might have over someone just converting from 6 volt negative ground to a 12 volt negative ground. I figure I need quite a few bulbs and am upgrading the ignition might as well go 12 volts. My wiring under the hood is fair with the voltage regulator being the worst. I am think of a conversion to a 12 volt single wire altenator.
- With a single wire 12 volt altenator I think I will need to wire it through the ammeter in the dash for it to operate the gage is that correct?
- I am installing a Pertronix ignition might as well get a 12 volt negative ground setup.
- Might put a set of points and a resistor in the toolbox.
- A new 12 volt coil will go in also I want a plain black unit I can put a ford script logo on.
- I need new headlights 6 volt ones are hard to find here I can get 12 volt off the shelf.
- I will be wiring up tail lights and turn signals 12 volt bulbs are easy to find.
- That heater motor sucks I am going to wire it for 12 volts. I am also going to make it a recirculating unit somehow. Or as someone suggested put an extra motor in the interior box.
- I figure the dash lights can be replaced with 12 volt units easy.
- The hardest part I can think of is getting 6 volts to the dash gages. I can build a unit like is in our forum easily. Might have the parts in a box sitting around. Just need to find which wire or wires to tap into. Hopefully my manual will show it.
- I bet that unused voltage regulator box would be the perfect place to put the 12 volt to 6 volt regulator. Might have to put a few vent holes if there are not any.
- Am I missing anything?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 506
From: clinton,tn
your on the right track. on my conversion i took the fuel gage out of the loop and hooked it straight to the key switch. then in front of the tank unit i put 3 -10 ohm resisters from radio shack in the line.it works fine. on the other gages ,temp and oil.i put a constant voltage regulater (cvr) in the 12 volt side feeding them.they work ok too. i use the factory switch , i took the starter button out and put a 12 volt button in .with a 12 volt source to one side and the other side goes to the solonoid i replaced with a 12 volt unit.i use a inline resister to the stock coil. the dash bulbs are easy to replace with 12 volt bulbs.the starter spins faster but works good. i have had better luck going to a 12 volt system then i have finding parts fixing my door latch. hope this helps.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Christopher2
As you positive ground guys know my 1950 F1 is positive ground. For those of you that switched from a 6 volt positive ground to a 12 volt negative ground does anything run backwards? Were there any hiccups that I might have over someone just converting from 6 volt negative ground to a 12 volt negative ground. I figure I need quite a few bulbs and am upgrading the ignition might as well go 12 volts. My wiring under the hood is fair with the voltage regulator being the worst. I am think of a conversion to a 12 volt single wire altenator.
- With a single wire 12 volt altenator I think I will need to wire it through the ammeter in the dash for it to operate the gage is that correct?
- I am installing a Pertronix ignition might as well get a 12 volt negative ground setup.
- Might put a set of points and a resistor in the toolbox.
- A new 12 volt coil will go in also I want a plain black unit I can put a ford script logo on.
- I need new headlights 6 volt ones are hard to find here I can get 12 volt off the shelf.
- I will be wiring up tail lights and turn signals 12 volt bulbs are easy to find.
- That heater motor sucks I am going to wire it for 12 volts. I am also going to make it a recirculating unit somehow. Or as someone suggested put an extra motor in the interior box.
- I figure the dash lights can be replaced with 12 volt units easy.
- The hardest part I can think of is getting 6 volts to the dash gages. I can build a unit like is in our forum easily. Might have the parts in a box sitting around. Just need to find which wire or wires to tap into. Hopefully my manual will show it.
- I bet that unused voltage regulator box would be the perfect place to put the 12 volt to 6 volt regulator. Might have to put a few vent holes if there are not any.
- Am I missing anything?
Be careful running that 12V alternator through the ammeter in the dash especially if you end up with a one-wire. If you want to use the original ammeter I'd go with a low output alternator like 65 Amps or less. If you go with one with more than that, I'd seriously consider adding a voltmeter under the dash instead. You don't want 80-100 Amps going into that original ammeter in the dash. It's a disaster waiting to happen.
Vern
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 587
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From: Augusta, ME
I'd put a voltmeter on either way you go, as the ammeter won't show a charge, it will only show a discharge, like when you turn on your headlights. Also remember to reverse the direction the wire goes through the ammeter since you are changing from positive to negative ground. A simple voltmeter gauge under your dash or hidden in glove compartment is good assurance your charging system is working like it should.
Some people put relays on the headlights so you don't send 12 volts through the 6 volt switch. I'm not sure how necessary it is, haven't gotten that far yet but you probably should consider it. I had mine hooked up through the switch temporarily and was such a huge difference with halogen 12 volts compared to the 6 volt headlights. Almost will take the "thrill" out of nighttime driving.
Scott
Some people put relays on the headlights so you don't send 12 volts through the 6 volt switch. I'm not sure how necessary it is, haven't gotten that far yet but you probably should consider it. I had mine hooked up through the switch temporarily and was such a huge difference with halogen 12 volts compared to the 6 volt headlights. Almost will take the "thrill" out of nighttime driving.
Scott
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
If you run 12v sealed beam headlights you won't need to run a relay but if you install halagen bulbs you will need relays. Depending on your rear lights if you run high amp bulbs you may have to install relays because the stock brake light switch can't handle the load. I'm using the original harness on my truck right now. I've spliced the 3 wire altenator and duraspark ignition into it but don't have guages yet.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Minnesota
Since relays are fairly cheap is there any reason not to use them in mulitple place to help reduce the strain. I figure when I do the 12 volt change over it would be a good time. I was thinking in the following places at a minimum.
- Headlights
- High output tail lights
- Whatever is hooked to the ignition switch that does not need to be. It looks like the heater motor runs through the igintion switch.
- The ignition if needed not sure what Pertronixs uses for power.
Last edited by Christopher2; Dec 14, 2004 at 07:42 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 358
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From: Joyce, WA
Be careful spinning that 6volt starter with 12 volts. Yea, it works fine now. After awhile of being hit with 12 volts the starter shaft will actually bend. This severly shortens the life of the 6 volt starter. When you have the money and time upgrade to a 12 volt starter or have a qualified automotive electric shop rebuild your 6 volt to handle 12. I had that done to my 6 volt in the '37 and it works great.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Seattle WA.
Wiring
Take a good look at the wiring harness if it hasen't been replaced in a long time , or has a lot of splices in it REPLACE IT. I rolled my 51 out of the garage and hit the starter with 12V and the harness caught fire. Luckly the battery terminal wasen't on tight. Or that it had happened in the middle of the night while parked in the garage as my bed is directly above where it is usually sitting. a close inspection reveled it didn't have the fusable link in the old 6 volt wiring. I'm in the process of installing a new harness from EZ Wiring. LAST OF ALL MAKE SURE THE FUSABLE LINK IS THERE !!!
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
One consideration: 6V actually requires heavier wire than 12V does, so if in good shape, the wiring should be plenty heavy enough to carry the load. One critical place to use a relay is for the horn! Other places are anything that is motor driven, electric radiator fan, electric fuel pump, power windows.
Like 51FF says tho, most vehicles this old have had a lot of questionable "mods" made to the electrical system, plus they didn't use any fuses, so new wiring can clean up a lot of potential problem points. Nothing worse than having an electrical problem at night in the middle of nowhere with no tools or light.
Like 51FF says tho, most vehicles this old have had a lot of questionable "mods" made to the electrical system, plus they didn't use any fuses, so new wiring can clean up a lot of potential problem points. Nothing worse than having an electrical problem at night in the middle of nowhere with no tools or light.
Last edited by AXracer; Dec 15, 2004 at 05:22 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 586
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From: East Palestine, Ohio
Calll Watson Speed Works and order there book on basic auto wiring. Only cost seven or eight dollars and is well worth it. My truck had already been converted to 12V when i bought it. The wiring was in very bad condition, some original wire
spliced into new wire and no fuses. Replaced with ez wire kit. Well worth the time and money.
spliced into new wire and no fuses. Replaced with ez wire kit. Well worth the time and money.
Posting Guru
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From: Seattle WA.
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