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1993 F150 4x4 166k miles on a 302. Codes indicated egr problems. Repaced egr valve and solenoid. Engine light remains. I now suspect the egr tube is defective as there is an exhaust leak near it. Has anyone replaced the EGR TUBE and is it possible for a weekend mechanic to do so?
Originally posted by gandrews 1993 F150 4x4 166k miles on a 302. Codes indicated egr problems. Repaced egr valve and solenoid. Engine light remains. I now suspect the egr tube is defective as there is an exhaust leak near it. Has anyone replaced the EGR TUBE and is it possible for a weekend mechanic to do so?
If you mean the tube that goes from the bottom of the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold, its easy to replace, its just difficult to get off since its going to be corroded together.
Nothing penetrating oil and a big wrench can't fix. Just take your time.
Originally posted by gandrews The manual I have is unclear on what parts need to be removed to get to where the tube connects to the exhaust. Any suggestions? Thanks.
My 93 has a threaded fitting at the bottom of the EGR, that the tube goes into, and a threaded fitting at the other end of the steel tube that goes into the passenger exhaust manifold.
When I bought my new tube, it came with both fittings. Just had to get the old one off, which took a while, and install the new one.
I just recently "popped" the EGR fitting from the tube so it's loud as hell now...Ford quoted me 213.25 to fix it so long as it goes well which everyone knows it won't...So you guys think that replcaing it won't be exceptionally hard? How much does the part cost?
I ordered the tube from the local parts store at $43.50. I'm reluctant to take on the task myself because of where the tube connects to the manifold. Looks as though the intake has to be removed to get to it. Good luck.
On the 302, yes, you do need to take the upper intake off to get at the threaded connection to the lower intake. The hardest part will actually be getting the pipe to come unthreaded off the EGR valve! That connection right there, is probably so incredibly rusted together that you'll need a torch to heat up and loosen it. Removing the upper intake isn't a difficult job. Just unbolt the EGR from the side of the intake, remove all vacuum lines, and the throttle linkage and you should be able to easily unbolt the upper intake. The throttle body does have two coolant lines to it, so you can either remove those (leak some coolant all over the place) or just unbolt the TB from the upper intake and move it out of the way. Either way works.
Good luck. Remember to stock up on some PB Blaster or the like!
Yup, That confirms it, Dealer it is........I can barely see the EGR tube nevermind torching and Peanut Butter Blasting and what not, I'll leave this one to them......Thanks though....
BTW: Will the dealer pull codes for me? I've tried the local auto-zones but they ither don't have the right thing for it or can't get a reading.....
Replaced the tube in 1.5 hours. No problem. Just removed the throttle body (4 bolts), upper intake manifold (watch for the hidden torx bolt) and the distributor cap. Old tube came out easily. You will need a new throttle body gasket and upper intake manifold gasket. One problem though. The check engine light remains and I can't delete code 326.
I think my problem is a little different, My EGR tube runs head to head I believe, I am getting it done at the local dealer for $175 I think.......I'll let you know what happens....
I will, too, have to replace the EGR Tube. The tube at the intake is fine, but it's completely rusted and fell off at the exhaust bung in the exhaust manifold.
My question is this: When you bought that replacement tube, was it one long piece, or was the tube connected together in the midddle? I'd love to replace just the bottom half of it in the exhaust.
AND: what should I do if the exhaust bung is just rusted to pieces, and may not even accept the new EGR tube?
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