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Got a fresh machined engine block for my f150 bored out .40 over with pistons to match. The one big thing though is that the machine shop gave me this block which was already done and ready to go but its the one with the dipstick in front of the oil filter. my previous one was screwed in behind the oil filter, and i have a brand new 75 dollar pan for that type of dipstick.(dipstick behind filter towards firewall) My question is if i use this block do i have to get a new pan and dipstick to match or can i use my pan i already have? I dont see how though because the pan has to be a front sump pan right
The rear dipstick point is for rear sump pans. The block you have is for a center sump pan. The center sump pan is from the 60s and 70s. The rear sump is neccisary for 1980-96 4wd trucks as the center sump hits the crossmember. It may or may not work in 80-96 2wd.
So that block will not work since i have a 85 4wd? because i would have to get a center sump and the pan would hit the cross member. the part number for a 1980 pan is different from a 1985 oil pan, why? if your saying there all rear sumps from 1980 thru 96 why different part numbers. my rear sump pan wont work on this motor anyway either? beause dipstick in front
I am assuming that all ford trucks with the 300 from 80 on up are rear sump.
Why?, I have seen 82, 88, 91, and 96 2wd with a rear sump and every 4X4 from 80-96 I have seen is a rear sump.
If the dipstick is in the block simply plug it and get a oil pan with the dipstick in the pan. That is what my 85 has. I know the center sump will not fit on an 85 4X4 as I tried installing a center sumped engine out of a 76 2WD once.
The blocks are equal. You simply have to change pan and o. pick up accordingly. I took the rear d.stick type, and plugged that hole with the factory little plug, like a tiny free plug, and pulled out the factory plug for the front location. Presto, I had the mid sump block. You also need the proper d. stick.
If your block is mid sump, plug it and get either open the rear hole on the block, or get the pan with the d. stick in the pan for that block.
The blocks are equal. You simply have to change pan and o. pick up accordingly. I took the rear d.stick type, and plugged that hole with the factory little plug, like a tiny free plug, and pulled out the factory plug for the front location. Presto, I had the mid sump block. You also need the proper d. stick.
If your block is mid sump, plug it and get either open the rear hole on the block, or get the pan with the d. stick in the pan for that block.
What is the purpose of the large type? Bad eyes or just screaming for attention?
well the machine shop is going to machine one of the blocks i have in my garage for me free, bored out .40 over and align honed.
I did notice though that the original block they had given me to use they installed the cam bearings and they didnt seem to line up, half of the oil galley hole was choked off by the bearing and the other half was ok. called them and told them about the block and the cam bearings and they said the cam bearings were in correctly and not to worry. it just doesnt seem right to me if they dont line up how could it be correct. there would still be oil getting to the cam journals but it would be restricted. example is running a marathon breathing through only a straw, chances are you'll survive but you wont do good at all. same thing with the cam, it may last for a little while but will eventually wear out correct?
The blocks changed around 82-83, prior to that there was no provision for a rear dipstick through the block. The dipstick for 4x4s and vans went into the side of the pan, and then in all trucks it went into the pan until 82 or 83. From then on, there was no provision for a dipstick in the side of the pan, but the mid-sump hole in the block stayed until the 87 redesign, when the fuel pump opening was blanked.
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