In addition to having issues w/ my van bogging down after it heats up, now another gremlin has popped up. (Just a head's up, this van sat for a year prior to my reworking the exhaust system to get it road worthy a couple of months ago.) The other day, my steering nose dived to the right while driving a slow speeds through a national forest. I, at first, thought it was a steering component failure. After I looked at the wheel area, I realized the caliper was not releasing. I let it cool, it released, and I drove home w/ the emergency brake.

I've taken the tire off and don't see any obvious source of the problem. The brake pads are worn more than half way, so I'm thinking of replacing them. I don't really feel that will solve my problem. Does anyone have an idea as to what I should look for? In searching around here and on the net, in general, crimped, old hoses seem to be a logical source of the problem. In looking at the right wheel brake line, the last foot or so is a separate component. Is there a good way to replace that section? Can I fabricate a new replacement or do I need to purchase that leg of the brake line.

Here are some pics of what I'm looking at:







The wetness is from a shot of PB blaster.
Thanks for any advice.
Tim

 

Aeros are some of the worst for the caliper brakes rusting up when they set. cast iron against cast iron slide with a stainless steel rubber bushed slide pin that traps rust

new calipers with the steel pistons and new stainless steel slide pins. don't even bother trying to rebuild or use rebuilts. wire brush the caliper to mount slide areas. light coat of high temp brake grease on the slides

new brake flex hoses. they break down internally and the neoprene components plug up return fluid which is very low pressure.

flush out the whole system front and rear with new brake fluid.

if you do the brake pads, use semi metallic. Raybestos Premium Plus are the best ROI. max. braking power and soft enough not to eat rotors or squeal

new rotors if there is any grooving. want only the best on Aero brakes because they are such small marginal brakes for a heavy van.

I like the braking power of the Ray. Prem+ pads paired their Prem+ rotors. 4 years and still hang me from the seat belt in a panic stop with no sliding.

our site sponsor rockauto has great prices and fast drop ship from multi warehouses to the door delivery.

 

I had a similar problem not long ago. Those sliders get rusty and sometimes sand gets in too. The pads seize and keep rubbing against the rotor. Everything heats up then the brake starts to squeal or - at low speed - lock up.
I cleaned those sliders with a wirebrush then applied a thin coat of grease. No troubles since.
Loose stuff inside the lines can prevent the release of the brake but would not cause lock-up by itself.

 

Thanks for your comments. I've found the flex hoses at AZ. I think I'll get them and then wire brush and lube the caliper slides.
If I'm convinced I need new calipers, that's what I'll do. The pads still have some life in them, as well as, the rotors.
Appreciate the quick replies. Now if I can get my acceleration issues solved, I'll feel good about my van again.

 

If you do nothing else, flush out the old brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will actively pull moisture into itself over time - even past seals. The moisture starts corroding the braking system from the inside & the resulting debris can cause calipers and wheel cylinders to stick. Also, the moisture in the brake fluid lowers the boiling point of the fluid, which can cause loss of braking when you need it most.

Here's my 2 cents for flushing brake fluid: I had a caliper stick on an 85 Ford in 1992. I was a (broke) student, so I flushed the brake fluid & it solved the problem. I had the same car until 2001 & it went to the scrap yard with an additional 90,000 miles with all the same calipers and wheel cylinders. I now make a point of flushing the brake fluid every time I do a brake job. The "newest" vehicle I have ever owned was 7 years old, & I keep them a long time (check my sig for my Aero history) & I have NEVER had another caliper or wheel cylinder stick. I did have to replace a rear caliper due to a blown seal, but that was a GM product...

YMMV

 

Thanks for that tip. Flushing probably helped you keep those systems from failing. I've found I need to replace or repair the right front caliper. The dust boot is compromised. To save money, I'm trying to find a repair kit w/out ordering it. I'm having no luck so I guess I'll have to replace the caliper, which means I'll be replacing both. $7 vs $36, kit vs calipers...sucks when trying to pinch a dime.

 

What is exactly wrong with the caliper? The dust boot is not a super-critical part. You can drive without it for awhile.

 

You know, I was thinking that, too. It was split along the bottom edge. The little bit of driving I do w/ that van, I'd probably be ok w/out it being intact. I like to do things the right way though and since I couldn't find a replacement w/out ordering one, I figured I would just get a reman caliper. It's only a few dollars more than the replacement boot, and I can get it off the shelf.

I ended up picking up the boot repair kit. It was easy enough to install. Brakes work great after bleeding. The new lines I installed should have been done before now. Take a look at these pics of my right brake line.



I'd suggest anyone driving an Aero who hasn't checked their front brake lines lately, give them a look see.