Success!!!!!!!! Just tested for leaks in the corner and all is great.. I put the interior trim back on.... So, if you have a mystery leak in the upper corners of your windshield, it may not be the windshield seal... Check the pinch weld joint and the seam between the roof panel and the post.... Sealing that up solved my leaks in the corners....

So, lessons learned... Recommended that you remove the old urethane down to a thin layer on the pinchweld.... Using a windshield dam would help maintain a consistent spacing of the windshield away from the pinchweld and hide any interior squish but it is not absolutely necessary... Make sure the urethane tip is trimmed properly to consume one whole tube by the time you place it all the way around the pinchweld or windshield... One tube should do just fine for this series of truck.. Use the primer that is specific for the urethane on both the pinchweld and windshield blackout... Use a good caulking gun with the right travel ratio.... Make sure you dry fit the windshield before adding the urethane so that you have good alignment marks and lower edge spacers... One person can do it but two is much easier... Suction cups do help especially when only one person is doing it... Check the body weld seams to make sure they have good sealant in them...

Materials used: 3M Windo-Weld 08609, 3M Single Step Primer 08681, 3M Heavy Drip-Check Sealer 08531 (Body Seams)

Hope this thread helps.... Now, on to re-painting the roof, pillar posts, and hood due to the famous (or should I say the infamous) 88 paint peel problem.....

 

Because of the visible urethane at the bottom, run the urethane on the glass and have a second body help you install w/s. The foam dam everyone is speaking of is no longer needed because urethane now has a higher viscosity and will support the weight of the w/s while it is curing. All this being said, a case of beer and 200 dollars should get you a new windshield installed ( including glass ) in most markets.