Hello, I have a JOB!!! woo hoo

94F150 windshield replacement. Anyone out here done these before, I have replaced one or 2 windshields before, I have a fresh tube or 2 of Urethane sealant.

Any hints or suggestions on this job, tips and tricks.

 

IMO it is better to get a company to do it. It will cost more money but it will be quicker and if they break it they replace it. If you break it your F***ed.

 

Even if you have the other window . It take forever to clean surfaces. My local glass shop will put one ( if you have one ) in for $50.00. He has all tools and if leaks I take it back. It took me 3 hrs to get old one out clean surface and reinstall new one.

 

Lostin90's, Where in Northwestern PA are you located?

 

Grampain PA . About 20 mile south Dubois exit of I 80. If your close there are lot of parts truck siitng around here

 

Cut the old one out. Most folks have success with a combo of razor knives and "guitar string". They sell windshield removal knives but I've not invested in one. I usually take out windshields in good condition to be reused, the tools WON'T do this. They work fine for bad windshield removal but I've never personally used one. I use the "8 point" style razor knives. You can buy one and 5 extra blades at WalMart for less than a dollar. I grab a handful. The blades are as good as any other (IE-3 refill blades for $3 at Lowe's) but the knives are a bit too flimsy for windshield removal. They tend to break at the adjuster. For the price, they work pretty darn good though. I use actual windshield wire from Brock Supply Co. I'm told music stores will sell you "G" guitar string pretty reasonable which seems to be the exact same thing.
Remove the trim. That lower piece is a bummer to get loose. Maybe someone has some advice on how to get it off without bending. I've had little luck. I remove the inner A-pillar trim pieces and the upper inside trim. Then I start slicing the sealant from the inside on one side. "Ford" sealant is tough. Takes a while. When I get daylight through, then I stick one end of the wire through. Tie each end to a couple of sticks (screwdriver handles, Vise-grips, whatever you prefer) and start sawing. This is best done with one person on each end. You can do it it solo but it sucks. Use soft nylon rope to extend the length of the wire. Take care not to cut up the door seals, scratch heck out of the paint, etc. Resist the temptation to just start beating/kicking the glass out. You'll have tiny splinters, chips, and glass dust dust in the dash like forever.
Toss old windshield. Use a fresh razor knife blade and go around the old sealant, slicing off as needed to get it pretty level. No high spots or bumps is most important. Don't remove it all! New sealant adheres best to a nice flat layer of the old sealant. Ask any pro. In fact, read the instructions on a tube of sealant. When you're satisfied that the sealing area is about as clean and smooth as you going to get it, start laying your sealant bead down. Make sure you have two original style plastic spacers or pieces of rubber (something) down at the bottom edge of the glass. A new windshield WILL slide downwards onto the cowl. Usually 15 minutes after you believe the job is done and are no longer paying attention. RRRR!
Two people are pretty much needed to place the glass. These trucks are too tall and the glass too long for one person. I have done it and refuse to do so again. I'll wait for help.
Bently but firmly press your glass in to assure a good seal. Make sure your sealer isn't blobbed out where you don't want it BEFORE it hardens. I put the glass in first then the trim clips while the goop is soft. Though I try to keep excess sealer off the clips. Some folks prefer to get the clips in place then place the glass. Suit yourself I suppose. You can put the trim back on right away. I try not to push it down into the sealer either. Later on if you need to remove it either a glued down clip or piece of trim can cause you to crack the windshield just trying to pop off a trim piece. I hate that.
How thick to lay sealer on is pretty much a personal judgement. Too much, a sloppy waste and too little risks water/wind leaks. I do lay a bit extra in the corners, particularly in the lower corners where the sheetmetal overlaps and sometimes is "lumpy".
You likely already know most of this, but what the heck.

 

I worked at Thrifty Car Rental for a while and watched the glass guy replace windshields often. They use a big suction cup with a handle to be able to muscle the glass around alone. After seeing and listening to him about all the issues with different cars........I'll pay them for the glass and they usually install it free......come right to your house down here.......or whereever and put them in. Guaranteed not to leak or they re-do it. If it cracks during the install they replace it......just one of those things I'll leave to the pros now.
Good Luck

 

Do i need to replace that ribbon seal or just even up the surface, and slop in some new urethane?

 

No offense, But let the DWO1099GBY be put in by the pro's, as stated, if they put it in there should no problems at all! Take advice from a glass man's side of the fence. The main reason is they will inspect the glass for defects, cracks, scratches, rub marks and so on. Sometimes it is better to spend a little more just for the insurance and peace of mind. Also, what kind of adhesive are you thinking of using? The windshield is glued in to assist the structual integrity of the cab, If you decide to do this yourself,, make sure you use the correct adhesives.

 

Don't forget the leaks and if you have to remove trim to reseal the $50.00 is worth it.