hello, its been a long time since i last posted. i recently got another 76 f250 and the unfortunate thing about this one is that its an auto. i pretty much traded a junk car for this, so im not out much of anything. when i got it the kid has to tow it over because he thought the t-case was stuck in neutral. i did find the shift linkages bent to hell. i got them straitened out and shifting but now i noticed the trans output shaft to the t-case doesnt spin when put into gear. ive double checked the shift cable and even shifted it by hand. nothing. the tc is infact spinning and the trans is full on fluid. id like to do a pressure test on it before i drop the pan, but i dont know the pressure specs nor do i know where the test ports are. i plan to pressure test it , followed by dropping the pan and looking for clutch material. if needed i will rebuild it. any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

The pressure port is right in front of the shift linkage on the left side of tranny. The pressures I found were in a haynes manual. My Ford manual I couldn't find any pressures listed.
Nuetral---engine idling--brakes applied---normal oil pressure 50-80 psi
Drive, 2 or 1---engine idling---brakes applied---normal oil pressure 50-95 psi
Reverse---engine idling---brakes applied---normal oil pressure 60-150 psi

 

So, you are saying you had the engine running, the trans in gear and the shaft doesn't spin ? Is the transfer case off the trans ?

 

The shaft that connects the trans to the t-case doesn't spin. When put in gear the engine doesnt even change rpm.

 

Moved to Transmission forum. Hopefully some of the experts will chime in.

Is the fluid burnt or good?

I am thinking your going to need to drop the trans personally. you are on the right track checking pressure as the pump is definitely one of the possibilities here. But if you have pressure other options include a busted input shaft or even a VB that was installed without the linkage being put in place right (although this is easy to check if you can take it in and out of park properly that is NOT the problem)

 

fluid didnt smell burnt, but i just diltuted it since it was 3 qts low. amazingly enough, of all the people i know that are mechanics, im the only one that will even touch an auto trans. so at the minute im without a test gauge. hoping to pick one up soon and get this thing figured out

 

well real fast test to see if the pump is even working. pull the return lien from the cooler (rear line) put a hose on it into a bucket and start the truck. If it doesn't pump any fluid out you know the pump isn't working.

 

it is, infact moving fluid. took the trans line off (after i killed two black widows and their eggs) started it up and it did pump. so i guess its probably pretty safe to pull the pan at this point and see if theres anything to be seen

 

when i pulled the cooler lines off, it did pump fluid. so we know the pump is atleast doing something.


i pulled the pan this morning. didnt find anything out of the ordinary, but i think its probably safe to say the clutch packs are toast. lots and lots of black specs(clutch media) in the bottom of the pan. i did notice when i got the truck an empty bottle of lucas stop slip, so im betting they just drove it until it stopped. someone did a really sloppy job when they did the filter last. orange rtv all over and then over tightened the gasket.

 

There is probably your problem. NEVER use RTV on an automatic it plugs up the oil passages and causes all sorts of problems including but not limited to low pressure which causes the clutches to slip and burn up as well as possible plugging the passages that apply the clutches all together.

You are in for a complete tear down and rebuild IMHO.

 

thats the plan. yea i agree on the rtv. an old timer taught me the right way a long time ago. grease to hold it in place and tighten it properly. the only sealant i use anymore is permatex "the right stuff" and i know how to apply it without having it ooze out everywhere

looks like i can get a overhaul kit for about 130 bucks. ill have to inspect the pump and i will probably replace the tc too.

 

I didn't catch the year there, you have a divorced transfer case C6. As long as the pan is off and it's destine to come out you could remove the valve body now and do a air check on it so you will know if you do in fact have some piston seals leaking. Maby you just have a problem in the valve body.

 

I like this suggestion for my situation as well. Very similar to the person who started this thread.