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I've got a 73 F250 Highboy 4x4 with drums all around. The brake booster is shot. NAPA Auto carries only one part that will fit my truck. I installed the mounting brackets onto the booster. But when I went to install the assembly onto the firewall, the studs don't align with the holes.
The unit I removed from the truck has studs that are 3 3/4" apart, center-to-center. The studs on the replacement are 3 1/2". The reduced separation between the mounting brakes pinches the rod boot. Also, the rod boot on the new booster is too short to reach and plug the hole in firewall where the brake rod goes through.
I called LMC Truck, and they offer one option. They said that their model only fits brakes with dual pistons. I haven't removed my drums yet to know whats on the inside. I asked them to measure the stud separation, and they said they would get back to me.
I called Kragen - they seem to carry the same unit as NAPA (Cardone?).
The booster I took off the truck has an old label that says, "FORD Remanufactured". Anybody know where I can get a replacement that fits properly - other than the boneyard? Thanks in advance
The black star by the part number means:
Symbol indicates part is not supplied for service for the following reasons:
a. Part is superseded and replaced as indicated in the description column of text.
b. Part can be improvised as indicated in the column of text.
c. Due to its function there would be little or no demand.
I can't figure out what m/w means. I know r/b means replaced by.
Maybe I'm silly, but why would you need to pull the drums off to determine how many pistons you have? I could be wrong, but I thought drum brakes have no calipers to have pistons in the first place. There is a wheel cylinder, and I suppose it could be interpreted that there is a little piston on each end of that, but I don't think that's the interpretation that the parts houses would use.
One weird thought...perhaps your 73 is a really early 73, using a 72 booster that has a different post pattern. I doubt it, but you never know what Ford was up to on the model year switch. I've found that there are so many variations on boosters for our 73-79's that the post patterns are quite different. I've also found differences in post width on master cylinders as well. I was trying to find the correct master cylinder for the 79 F350 9" dual diaphragm booster that I got for Buford, and the first one I got had a post pattern that was about 1/4" off, so it wouldn't fit. Anyway, my only point was that if you have drum brakes all the way around, your calipers don't have dual pistons as you don't have calipers in the first place.
I'm resurrecting this thread because I don't think that I ever got the right part. For 7 years now, the pedal goes straight to the floor without any resistance, and barely stops. No amount of bleeding, adjusting, replacement shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, master cylinders or adjusters works.
In this post, I'm asking for the Bendix cross reference part numbers again (they were photos on an earlier post which are now gone).
I'm resurrecting this thread because I don't think that I ever got the right part. For 7 years now, the pedal goes straight to the floor without any resistance, and barely stops. No amount of bleeding, adjusting, replacement shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, master cylinders or adjusters works.
In this post, I'm asking for the Bendix cross reference part numbers again (they were photos on an earlier post which are now gone).
Dont know the numbers you ask for but if brakes going to floor is either air in system or the pedal stroke is not enough stroke in to the rear of master cylinder properly , the booster only gives it power brakes , but I cant remember the exact setup coming out of booster but maybe its not pushing in far enough to work the master cylinder to put pressure thru the lines ,.
Do you get much pressure when bleeding the brakes ?
Have you tried adjusting the rod that pushes into the back of the master cylinder ?
Not saying you don't have the wrong booster but just seem like its not the cause of pedal to the floor unless its not pushing in on back of master cylinder properly
Or maybe the wheel cylinders are not working properly , have they been replaced ? Have you checked proportioning valve?
Read this on another forum until,,,, I jacked the rear end back up and really adjusted the rear brakes. Made a HUGE difference. I went from the pedal going to the floor not locking anything up, to good pressure and locking the brakes up without anymore bleeding or anything else.
I'm resurrecting this thread because I don't think that I ever got the right part. For 7 years now, the pedal goes straight to the floor without any resistance, and barely stops. No amount of bleeding, adjusting, replacement shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, master cylinders or adjusters works.
In this post, I'm asking for the Bendix cross reference part numbers again (they were photos on an earlier post which are now gone).
D3TZ-2005-B (replaced C9TZ-2005-B) .. Power Brake Booster-Use with drum brakes - 8.94" diameter / Bendix #2510795 / Obsolete
I finally got this figured out.
The adjustable rod between the master cylinder and the power booster is 10mm too short. Unfortunately, I can't adjust the existing rod out any further. Its a 1/4-28 thread with an acorn nut on the head. Unless someone can refer to me to a vendor that carries a longer rod, repair kit, or replacement, I'll have to fabricate something. The problem is that the acorn nut is not removable and is smaller than a standard one for sale at the hardware store (its obviously sized for the purpose).
Help?
Last edited by torpedo51; Nov 5, 2017 at 08:07 PM.
Reason: added images
That could easily be made,,get a grade 8 bolt or a stainless bolt would work at the length needed , an carefully cut head off bolt so that acorn nut can be threaded on an maybe a tack weld in place and then you have the proper one which is probably easier made than found, you might even be able to weld an acorn nut on what you have an get desired length or even a COUPLING NUT 1/4-28 which then you could add more threaded rod to make longer
Use rock auto to look at the different boosters available for your year. I had bought 2 from local auto parts store that were said to fit my 79 f250 2wd auto. They did not, totally different. I had to just look through the different boosters available to find one that matched the one I had.
